Hi everyone,

I've got an Honda Civic EX AT 1995.

Almost Every Day after runnig for about 10 minutes, the tachometer noodle starts working bad (goes up and down) and inmediately the check engine ligth on and the engine stop.

Then I disconnect the ECU Fuse, wait for 10 minutes and the engine starts working fine FOR THE REST of the day.

One Year Ago I've changed the speed sensor and the Ignition Module, ¿Could it be the problem? ¿a bad new ignition module?

Tank you very much.

. The tachometer may be shorting out the ICM. Disconnect the BLU wire, inside the distributor, going to the ICM and see if that solves the problem. If it does, the tachometer is bad.

. The Ignition Control Module (ICM) may be bad. Be sure to apply heat transfer silicone grease to the back of the ICM, before installation.

Thanks a lot txgreasemonkey's. I'll try it.
Can I do it without Taking out the entire distributor?
I mean, just dissambling the plastic cover?
Tanks again.

Yes. Just remove the distributor cap and disconnect the Blue wire. You may want to read the links below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post260436

Hi txgreasemonkey, I couldn't still try to disconnect the blue wire from the ICM, there was too hot last night when I got home, I think I'll try to do it this Sunday.

There are some points that I would like to tell you than could bring some light in the problem. Sorry If I'm though heavy.

The ECU Error Code is 15. (Ignition Output Signal)

An professional mechanic put in my car the entire distributor from other Civic (My brother), exactly the same engine with the difference that mine is Automatic and my brother's is manual.

With My brother's distributor the engine worked properly. The tachometer was right at any revolution. But, with my distributor, the tachometer works fine when the cars is not moving, and starts to be erratic when, driving, at 2500 RPM. Some times it continuos witout stoping the engine, but other times the engine stop and then I have to wait for about 20 minutes, disconect to Fuse ECU (Is that the same that disconecting the battery? )

That's why I think the problem should be inside the distributor, the mechanic tolk to me about some 'captores' (in spanish), that should be some sensors.

I'm from Argentina. I sent my distributor to an Honda official Service in Buenos Aires, in Janury 2007. They refurbished it. It worked fine but the Erratic RPM was still there when I got the 2500 rpm. (I wanted to buy a new distributor but there was none in stock, and it was so expensive )

During 2007 I used the car normaly but now begin this problem.

Thank you very much for all again.

Code 15 indicates the Ignition Control Module is bad. Disconnecting the negative battery cable resets the ECM, just like pulling the 7.5 A Backup Fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box.

Replacing the ICM should solve the problem. Be sure to coat the back of the new ICM with an even coat of heat transfer silicone grease. Ensure you get the correct ICM (part number) for your distributor.

While we find your parts, please enter your ZIP Code at PartsAmerica.com

The current ICM might have been installed without applying silicone grease. To save money, you might first try coating the current ICM with silicone grease and see if the problem goes away.

HI txgreasemonkey
I spent a couple of day to find the best silicone grase for heat transfer.

But I couldn't do this step:

4. Remove machine screw securing rotor to shaft, using a #2 Phillips head screwdriver. It may be necessary to "hit" the starter once or twice, in order to rotate rotor for access to mounting screw.

Did'nt found the screw securing rotor. Is It in a Vertical position against the saft?

What does it mean "hit" the starter ?

The rotor was really hard and I could not rotate it.

Thank you very much.

"Hit the starter" means to turn the ignition switch just enough to rotate the distributor shaft, in order to gain access to the machine screw securing the rotor. Depending on your distributor, your rotor may not be held on by a machine screw but may just pull off. The screw would be 90 degrees (right angle) to the shaft.

Ok. Just as I would to start the engine.
Will it work with the battery negative wire disconnected? Or should I re-connect it?
Thanks.

Yes, just as you would do when starting the engine. You must have the negative battery cable connected.

I Could take out the rotor and te coil.
I Could'nt take out the igniter. The Screw where under the saft.
I just put a bit of silicone grase into the male conector of the igniter and reemsamble all again.
The first time the engine start correctly.
Then I stop the engine to check the error code.

There was not error code but NOW THE ENGINE dosen't start.

When I check the error again, the check engine ligth remains on.
And the SRS light blink continuosly. What does it mean?
What I did Bad?

Now I really need you. :((
Tank you again.

Try resetting the ECM and see if the car will start, by disconnecting the negative battery cable for 10 seconds. You really need to properly replace the ignitor. At this point, I recommend taking it to Honda or a local repair shop that specializes in Hondas for servicing.

Thank You txgreasemonkey. On Monday I'll take the car to an official Honda Servicing.

However I'll check all the fuse today.
Any Idea what's the SRS Ligth Blinking means?

Perform the K-Test on your ECM. It's possible the problem is that your computer is bad.

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

Here's how you want to test all under-hood and under-dash fuses:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

Where is the MAP Sensor connector ?
And the ECM or thermostat housing ?

The MAP Sensor is usually along the firewall, just to the right of the battery and fuel filter.

Just use any good ground on the engine.

How can I check if there is spark.?
Tanks again.

Read the section below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post229012

I think my ECU is bad, since the CEL go off after two seconds, but remains ON when cheking error codes.
(The ACG Fuse is OK.)
I do can hear the fuel pump and the click of the main relay.

When checking the fuse I could see two points:
In the under-hood fuse/relay box there is a Check Engine Fuse.
The Fuse was good, but there was no energy in any of the two terminal of it's location.
And, when checking the under-dash fuse box, I couldn't see any Voltage (perhaps because I didn't found a good ground point), so I had to check continuity


So I'll try to do the K-test:

1) What does the MAP Sensor look like?
2) Where should be the ECM in my car and what's it look like? (Civic 1995 American EX AT with SRS)
3) Is There another ECU Fuse somewhere (Beside the 15 A under-hood)?
(I think I made a mistake when I start the engine while the connector to get ECU Error Codes was jumped. )
Thank you very much.

MAP Sensor is to the right of the battery and fuel filter, along the firewall. On some models it might be on top of the throttle body.


Engine Control Module (ECM) Replacement

1. Disconnect negative battery cable, after recording radio codes.
2. Remove right door sill molding, pull carpet back, and expose ECM.
3. Remove three 10 mm bolts and one 10 mm nut securing ECM cover.
4. Separate ECM cover from harness carefully.
5. Press connector release, going to connectors A, B, and D, and carefully pry connectors from ECM, using a small screwdriver.
6. Plug connectors into new ECM and button up.