I have a 1989 ford mustang, it's just a four cylinder tiny little thing, hardly a mustang. No horsepower, kind of ironic. I call it "my little pony".
I have encountered my car not starting a few times now. I've only had it since August 07, and I'm 18 years old and female so I know nothing about cars. It only happens when it's really cold, I mean, I'm in Minnesota, and it gets cold. Usually a jump from a pretty decent sized vehicle (My dad's truck) will start it, not always will the little battery jumper packs that security people use to help you. It seems to be getting worse and worse with each encounter, and my car gets harder and harder to start, like I have to hold it until it turns so it won't die trying to start. It hasn't run for three or four days now, it wouldn't even try to start before, and its freezing and I can't get it to start. I tried jumping and it started to go but wouldn't quite make it. I keep getting a buzzing noise when it doesn't try. But today I got a fast ticking noise, and it kind of worries me. I'm afraid to touch it cause I don't want it to get worse... I think it may be the battery, or the starter, but how do I tell? I have no car savvy people around me and I am broke, not to mention I can't even take it to a place to be fixed... It runs fine in the summer, but I guess it doesn't like winter...
Any feedback would be appreciated. Um, if it helps there is a red sticker on the battery that says 04/07, and autozone guy said that's probably the manufacturing date, so unless it's a bad battery from go, I don't know what it is.
Thanks!
Amelia (helpless teenager)

Make sure that the battery in the car is the correct size and model for the car. When it gets cold batteries that are not specifically meant for your car will not properly hold their charge. Try that first. Go to a battery place and they can tell you right away if battery is still good and if it is the right one for your car.

It really sounds like a battery problem. If you can take the battery to AutoZone, they can test it and charge it for you free of charge. Since you live in Minnesota, you really should use 5W-30 full synthetic oil in your engine; e.g. Mobil 1. Synthetics allow your engine to start much easier in cold weather, saving your battery and starter motor. It was originally developed for vehicles working on the Alaskan Pipeline. There are many other reasons, too.

Here's a more detailed course of action, if necessary:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post235560

I wish to take my battery to autozone, thanks to my research and your wonderful replies, but um... Is there a special way I take the battery out? I can't take my car, cause it won't start and they said if they test it it will probably need a jump to run again. I really have no car people in my life, and I am afraid to even jump my car simply cause I am female. Anyone have very detailed step by step instructions?

The important thing is to disconnect the NEGATIVE battery cable first, then the positive (red) cable . Use a small adjustable wrench, or socket wrench, to undo the terminal connector bolts. Clean the battery terminals and cables with a battery brush or abrasive cloth (like sandpaper). This will remove any corrosion, which can be a big issue. Be careful not to get any battery acid in your eyes. Wash your hands thoroughly, afterwards. When you install the battery, attach the positive battery cable first, then the negative cable. It's best to never jump a battery--many unforeseen problems can arise.

Thanks for the advice. I'll try to take the battery in and I will come back and update. :)

Make sure you get a battery with a lot of cold cranking power. You might consider a top of the line Sears Diehard rather than what AutoZone sells.

Okay, so my mom talked to my uncle and thought it was a frozen fuel line. She did everything he said, iso heat and a billion other remedies. Nothing. They took in the battery, it held a charge but didn't give enough power. So we got a new battery. When I got home a while after that I got it to start, when my mom didn't think it would because it wouldn't when she tried after new battery. But it did. I ran it for maybe two days, then came the dreaded night when they said it would hit 0 again. (It had been warm, like 40, the day after I got it to start.) It was running a little rougher than usual for my old car, and today it doesn't start again. Same thing, it tries a little, more and more but doesn't go. And the more I try the less it does, like the battery is dying. Any other recommendations?

What's the CCP rating on the battery you got?

Did you buy a quality battery with high enough cold cranking amps for your car? Something just isn't right with this picture. It's also important to slowly charge a new battery before installation. If you leave that task up to the alternator, you're asking for trouble in cold weather.

The car is only a 4 cly so you would only need 500 to 700 cold cranking amps, is the alternator working proper, I think the out put charg is about 14.7 volts, is the belt tight that turns the alternator, is there a clove box light on or a small light that you can not see staying on and killing the battery over night, once you get it going put a volt meter on the battery and check to see if it is charging, these are something you could check yourself hope this may help

I think she didn't get the right battery for it to just drain down that quick or she didn't run the car long enough after it was very cold to properly recharge it.

Greasemonkey has a point about the slow charge here in MN. If the battery is what is recommended and your terminals are tight you may have an alternator issue. Has the car died while running before?

The battery helped, and a block heater solved the problem (WHEN I could plug it in), but ultimately the problem was timing, and the block heater just ensures that it will start in -30 windchill. So it was the timing, $350 at sparks auto in maplewood MN, they made it run wonderfully. Thanks for the advice