I have a 92 automatic civic dx coupe which hasn't really given me problems until recently. The problem started when while driving it would turn off and wouldn't start until several minutes of cranking. Also the car doesn't start on random occasions.
So I decided to change the fuel filter,spark pluggs, and I finally bought a new fuel pump, and everything seemed fine until it stalled once again while at a red light.
Ive noticed that the stalling usually happens at low speeds.

But I've been thinking it might be the electrical wires for the fuel pump because when it doesn't start I can't hear the fuel pump starting.

Im REALLY frustrated because I've wasted a lot of money for the fuel pump, which I thought was the problem

please help :(

Perform tests, outlined in Sections A and B below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...das-46563.html

Perform the K-Test on the ECM. ECMs are failing regularly on these older Hondas. Also, because of the age of your Civic, I would replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM), coil, and main relay. The main relay is located left of the fuse box, wedged against the left kick panel and above the hood latch. Remove fuse box cover and lower dash panel for access. Here's how to replace the ICM and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

These are the most problematic electrical components on Civics and should restore reliability and performance to your car.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

Perform tests, outlined in Sections A and B below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...das-46563.html

Perform the K-Test on the ECM. ECMs are failing regularly on these older Hondas. Also, because of the age of your Civic, I would replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM), coil, and main relay. The main relay is located left of the fuse box, wedged against the left kick panel and above the hood latch. Remove fuse box cover and lower dash panel for access. Here's how to replace the ICM and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

These are the most problematic electrical components on Civics and should restore reliability and performance to your car.

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Thank you, will do
Ill come back and report how my cars doing. :)

It ended up being the main relay!

=]

I had the same issue on my Civic and after following the advice listed here, it ended up simply being the battery. Crazy: all that work for something so simple.

Got the same problem with my '92 Civic ferio (168+ k), problems started about one month ago.

Replaced battery, ICM and coil and still the engine stalls. At speeds up to 15mph it tends to suddenly stall, at speeds up to 30mph it jerks and eventually stalls. No trouble at higher speeds. After engine stalled I smelled some burnt oil last few times, also the oil pressure light lit up. Checked oil level, looks fine.

Honda mechanic said they couldn't find the main relay, said it's a different system. Have you guys ever heard that before? Is that even possible?

After doing research it seems other possible causes are:
- faulty ignition switch (although the oil light lit up after the car stalled, does this mean the switch works?)
- distributor / distributor housing (the Honda mechanics found a crack in the distributor cap and the rotor catching)
- idle air control valve
- fuel pump (I cannot hear it running when I turn my key to the “ON” position I just hear one click)
- crank shaft sensor
- rear bank coilpack

What are your thoughts?
Any help very much appreciated!

paletti, install your new ICM and coil in a new distributor housing (genuine Honda only). Ensure that you applied silicone heat transfer grease to the back of the ICM. These efforts should solve your problem.

Quote:

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Quoting TxGreaseMonkey:
Paletti, install your new ICM and coil in a new distributor housing (genuine Honda only). Ensure that you applied silicone heat transfer grease to the back of the ICM. These efforts should solve your problem.

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Thank you TxGreaseMonkey! I will do that.
Will update afterwards...

Have a 2002 Honda accord that stalled at low speed a couple weeks ago and would not restart . I had it towed to garage and when we took it off truck, I tried it, and It started and ran fine. A couple days later it would not start in the morning. I just tried holding the throttle to the floor and after much cranking, the vehicle started. It put out slot of black smoke and ran fine all day and started fine. The next few mornings I had the same problem. The service engine light was not on and I could hear the fuel pump working. Also, I checked the plugs in the morning when it would not start and was surprised to find them dry.

Talked to the local Honda dealer ship and they had no clue. They said I could bring it in for testing. I figured I may as well " test" myself.
After much reading on the Internet, I took Tx grease monkeys advice and changed the distributor unit , which included the coil and Ignition control valve. I purchased this at salvage yard for $75.00. We have put approx. 800 kilometers on car and it works great. It starts right up in the mornings.

Nice job, Backyrdmech.

Well the situation got worse and can't even start my car anymore. I suspect that the problem actually might be the fuel pump as I cannot hear it after I switch the key to II position.

TxGreaseMonkey, I cannot find any leaks around the distributor, it appears dry. The mechanics also didn't mention any oil leaks when they installed the ICM and coil. You think I should I get the new housing anyway?

I've just been told by a mechanic that my car has a dual carburetor system.
This explains why I can't hear the fuel pump, right?

paletti, it's common for the distributor housings to fail on older Hondas. The internal sensors fail (TDC, CKP, and CYL), which causes erratic performance. It has nothing to do with leaks. From afar, this is my bet.