My son bought a 91 honda civic hatchback dx several months ago as a first car, it never really had much power to it, but we thought that was normal for such a small car. Then it started dying every now and then and getting irritable. Then it started sounding really rough, smelling like gas and running rich"my husband says" so, he's changed the spark plugs,wires,oil, filter, checked the timeing and adjusted it, changed the cap and rotar, and yesterday, changed the main efi relay which was damaged. And the car still won't start! It turns over but will not start. Any ideas anyone? This was a cheap first car and turning in to a money pit!:eek:

Perform the tests, outlined in Sections A and B, below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...das-46563.html

If the Check Engine Light comes on and goes off, after the ignition switch is turned to ON, focus on the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil inside the distributor. AutoZone can test these two components for free. Here's how to replace the ICM and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

Car needs fuel, air, and fire to start. Make sure you have proper fuel pressure, non obstructed air filter, and spark. Remember a troubled fuel pressure regulator can cause too much pressure which can cause the problem you described.

FUEL PUMP
Controlled pressure [1] 35 - 36 psi (254 - 255 kPa)

Uncontrolled pressure [2] 40 - 50 psi (275 - 324 kPa)

Displacement 230 cc minimum in 10 seconds

Relief valve opening pressure 64 - 85 psi (441 - 588 kPa)
[1] With vacuum hose connected at regulator
[2] With vacuum hose disconnected at regulator


Best of luck

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

Perform the tests, outlined in Sections A and B, below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...das-46563.html

If the Check Engine Light comes on and goes off, after the ignition switch is turned to ON, focus on the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil inside the distributor. AutoZone can test these two components for free. Here's how to replace the ICM and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

---

The car has not given any check engine lights at all, and my husband has checked it for any and all codes, there aren't any.

My husband has checked for fuel and spark, the car has both

. Provide me with the answers to the questions below:

a. Turning the ignition switch to ON (or Position II), not START, does the CEL come on and then go off after 2 seconds?

b. When the CEL goes out, do you hear and/or feel the Main Relay "click"?

c. During the 2 second interval that the CEL is on, do you hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run?

. Test all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

The cel stays on from what my husband says, the main relay does click, he hears the fuel pump also. He just told me that the ecu light did come on before he put the new main relay in and now there aren't any lights comeing on. Any ideas? I sure hope so! Thanks.

If the CEL stays on, when the ignition switch is turned to ON, perform the K-Test on the ECM:

K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

Here's how to replace the ECM, if it fails the K-Test:

1. Disconnect negative battery cable, after recording radio codes.
2. Remove right door sill molding, pull carpet back, and expose ECM.
3. Remove three 10 mm bolts and one 10 mm nut securing ECM cover.
4. Separate ECM cover from harness carefully.
5. Press connector release, going to connectors A, B, and D, and carefully pry connectors from ECM, using a small screwdriver.
6. Plug connectors into new ECM and button up.

Thanks, I'll have my husband try that in the morning.

OK, it's me again. After having a mechanic who works on honda's a lot check the honda civic out, he determined he had no idea what was wrong, it has fire, compression, and fuel. There are no lights comeing on, we've put lots of new parts and nothing seems to be working. The car acts like it wants to start but never does. My husband rebuilt the fuel injection this past weekend and still nothing! Anyone have anymore ideas please?

Remove the cold air system from the throttle body assembly and pour about 2 ounces of raw fuel in the throttle body. Let it dissipate some by waiting about 2-3 minutes and then try to start it. If it starts up and then quits (once it burns up the fuel you poured in) then it is in your fuel system. You may have a weak fuel pump or a partially plugged fuel filter. When the fuel line is unhooked and there is no pressure in the system the fuel pump is not under a load and will be able to pump fuel and/or will be able to get passed the plugged area but when it is under pressure it can't.

DISCLAIMER: Pouring raw fuel into the throttle body is very dangerous. Do not do this in an enclosed area like a garage or carport. Make sure no one is under or around the hood area if you do this. Also be aware that it can result in an underhood fire. I have used this procedure a few times in my many years with no castastrohic results but was also aware of the dangers involved in doing this and was willing to except the consequences if there was a problem.

Thanks for the ideas, my husband tried this already and it did not work, so now the car has next to no compression in 3 of the valves, so now we have to decide on rebuilding the motor or buying a new one. Any ideas on what to do or where to get one?

Have him pour a about 1/2 ounce of oil (couple good squirts from an oil can if he has one) and then recheck the compression. If the compression comes up considerably then it has worn rings and will need a rebuild for replacement. If not then it is the valves not sealing. If it is the valves not seating then a valve job will do the trick and would cost considerably less then an engine change unless #1 you get a real good deal on a good used motor and #2 your husband changes it and doesn't have to pay someone to do it.

Try checking the ground wires it might be bad or it might not be grounded sonewhere... or it can be your coil or igniter inside the distributor...

Move the distributor back to where it was before he adjusted the timing.

Hello I have the same problem, I have honda civic 2003/2004 but it is not getting start after running 40-50Km, and if we leave the car for 1 hour to get cold, car get start immediately If any one knows about it please let me know.

Sorry so long for answer but have not been on site for awhile.. I have a Honda CRX that exibited the same characteristics (i.e. would not restart when hot after driving a number of miles). Inside your distributor there is a square component called an "Ignition Control Module" ICM. It is square with wires coming out of it. Take this to Auto Zone and they have a tester to test this component. They tested mine and it tested good. I knew the guy working there and he let me to continue testing it. I tested it about 20 times in a row, which got it hot like it would be in the car and then it started failing. I replaced mine and have had no problems since. Part cost me around $35 a couple of years ago