I'm trying to make sure that I need a new water heater before I go buy one.I live in a mobile home which I purchased 3 years ago.I am assuming that the existing water heater is the original one that came with the home which would make it approx 18 years old.I work third shift and last night just before leaving for work I noticed that the carpet was wet around the enclosure that contains the heater.upon my return this morning there was a lot of water in the carpet and on the floor traveling up the hallway,I would guess a couple of gallons or more.Upon inspecting the heater I noticed no leaks around the fixtures but the bottom of the heater was full of water up to the lip of the case which is about 3/4" and the water that is being expelled is hot water.The unit is a "State" scout 110 and is a 35-40 gallon heater. Would this indicate a hole in the tank and should I be looking for a new one? How much does something like this cost,and are they easy to replace? Currently I have the water shut off to the home and I turned the circuit breaker off to the heater. Any help would greatly be appreciated.

Hey Bruni,

Sure sounds like a weld broke open in the tank. This is not repairable. The heater will have to be replaced.
" How much does something like this cost,and are they easy to replace?"

You'll have to check local prices and if the heater's connected with flexible connections with threaded ends it's a easy replacement. If they're solder or flare joints the installation just got more difficult if you don't have soldering skills or equipment. If the heater has a cold water shut off then close it and drain the tank. Now you can turn the water back on so you can flush.
Good luck, Tom

Thanks Tom, I was afraid of that.Luckily it has threaded joints,unfortunately I don't think it has a cold water shutoff and I'm strapped for funds,but isn't that usually when something happens? Thanks again for your help.

",unfortunately I don't think it has a cold water shutoff"

Shut the house down at the house shut off when you change the heater out. Good luck. Tom

Well,Ive purchased a new water heater and It has a blue plastic pin insert in the cold water inlet and a red heat trap nipple in the hot water outlet.Do these need to stay in when I connect the water lines? Also the new one is considerably taller than the old one (new one -Richmond 40 gal),(old one-Scout 110 30 gal),The new one has all the fixtures on top of the unit and the old one has side fixtures, so I'm going to have to buy and run pvc lines to the top.Do I need high pressure pvc and a high tempurature pvc line (for the hot),or can I go standard pvc on both? Thanks for any help.

Hey Bruni,

"It has a blue plastic pin insert in the cold water inlet and a red heat trap nipple in the hot water outlet.Do these need to stay in when I connect the water lines?"

No, you may replace them with 3/4" male adapters if you wish. However if you use threaded flexible connecters you'll need the nipples. Be aware that if you have a recirculating line and pump the marble in the heat trap nipple can start to vibrate.

"I'm going to have to buy and run pvc lines to the top.Do I need high pressure pvc and a high tempurature pvc line (for the hot),or can I go standard pvc on both? "

Use CPVC pipe and fittings to pipe inside the house.

Good luck, tom

I appreciate all the help Tom,by the way my real name is Scott and I live in Iowa. I'm sorry but I'm not quite sure what you mean by "flexible connectors".I was just going to use the existing connectors-(brass fittings connected to copper and permanantly coupled into pvc)and couple additional pvc and elbows into the lines. The current lines say 100psi and 180 degree. I was going to stay with that number and just use standard pvc for the pressure relief valve since its not going to hold pressure. I might have more questions once I get to the wiring since I'm going from a single element to a double element.I'm going to install this today so I might need more help. Thanks again.P.S. I'm waiting for the hardware store to open at noon so it will be awhile before I actually get started on this.

Hi Scott,

Flexible heater connections are 3/4" accordion pleated flexible copper with a threaded connection on one end and a slip solder connection on the other about 18" long ,(see image). They save you from having to connect using fittings to line up the pipes with the heater connections. Regards, Tom

Thank you very much tom.

Well I have the new one installed and seems to be working fine but I noticed that I have a small leak from a coupler joint coming from the hot side.I have extra cpvc and couplers and can fix this problem but was wondering if I can do this without having to drain the tank?Also I noticed that the cold inlet pipe is warm for approx. a foot up to the tank.It seemed to be almost as hot as the hot pipe,but does cool when the hot water is being used. Is this normal and if not what could be the cause and remedy for this? Thanks once again for all the help through this.

Hey Scott,
"I have a small leak from a coupler joint coming from the hot side.I have extra cpvc and couplers and can fix this problem but was wondering if I can do this without having to drain the tank?"

Yes, shut the water off at the cold water supply and open a hot water faucet to break vacume . Now attach a hose to the boiler drain and drain a few gallons out. You may now repair your leak.

" I noticed that the cold inlet pipe is warm for approx. a foot up to the tank.It seemed to be almost as hot as the hot pipe,but does cool when the hot water is being used. Is this normal and if not what could be the cause and remedy for this?"

This is normal. As water heats it expands. Since the hot water side in closed until you open a faucet then heated water has no place to expand but into the cold water supply line. Then you open a hot water faucet drawing cold water through the cold inlet pipe cooling it back down. Mystery solved?
Cheers, Tom

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, this should complete my adventure. If I have anything else I will surely post again. Scott