I have a new dryer with a 4 prong plug. My old dryer was wired directly. I have a Leviton (Nema 14-30R) "30A - 125/250V GROG" plug receptacle and a junction box and wish to mount it, however, I don't know if there is a specific order for the wires to be hooked up to the actual box. Wires are Black, White, Red and there is a ground. The plastic plug receptacle has 4 female entries. The one on the left and on the right are straight up and down slats, the top is a half moon and the bottom is in an L shape. What wires go where so when I'm done I can just plug the dryer in? - Thank you.

How do I wire a 4 prong Leviton dryer plug receptacle from fuse box?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have a new dryer with a 4 prong plug. My old dryer was wired directly. I have a Leviton (Nema 14-30R) "30A - 125/250V GROG" plug receptacle and a junction box and wish to mount it, however, I don't know if there is a specific order for the wires to be hooked up to the actual box. Wires are Black, White, Red and there is a ground. The plastic plug receptacle has 4 female entries. The one on the left and on the right are straight up and down slats, the top is a half moon and the bottom is in an L shape. What wires go where so when I'm done I can just plug the dryer in? - Thank you.

The two "straight up and down slats" are the hot wires... should be red and black, connected to your 30amp dbl pole breaker. The "L" shaped one is your neutral, (white) and the half moon is the equipment ground.

Well I can find a Leviton (14 -30R) 30 A, 125/250 Leviton on the Leviton website. I cannot find any technical description of the term "GROG" though. Can you tell me what that means, please?

Are you sure that you want to connect this to a fuse box. It would take two fuses one on each of the phases brought to your service panel.

You may be forced to update your service to current code level and if you are going to do that, than you might as well go to 200 amp service.

I strongly strongest you contact some licensed electricians and have them do a calculated load study and bid for the 200 amp upgrade.

One of the reasons I suggest this is because if you tie the hot leads to two different fuses, then each fuse has to be on a different phase.

However, the real problem is that if one fuse opens, the other does not. That leaves you exposed to a device that is still hot. Trust me, 120 VAC can and does kill.

When a breaker is used, both breaker handles open and the same time and the line voltages are removed from the circuit.

Good advice Don... I didn't catch the "fuse box" part. I made an assumption it was a breaker panel.

Mo,

I'm wondering if there weren't two different posters, Brent W and Barca21.

Possible?

I don't see any issue using a fuse panel, providing a 240 volt two pole fuse pullout block is used.