If you don't already know, this is a walk-in shower to whirlpool conversion. I need to figure how the supply line will work out before I set my trap. I have virtually no knowledge in this area. My guess here based on the picture below is I will be replacing the mixing valve with one that will connect to a diverter spout and basically just be adding the 1/2 copper down to the spout. I'll probably replace all the copper at the same time as well.

My Questions:

Is that all that is needed?

Will I run into issues having a concrete block wall with 1x2 studs? The existing valve appears to be imbedded in the wall just a bit. The wall was chipped out and filled in around the valve. I planning to go with a 2 handled valve with a diverter spout. The spout is what's more concerning. Will I need to add 2x2 or 2x4 studs for it? That's got me hung up on the trap placement at the moment.


Picture details. The supply lines come in from the bottom. Where each line T's to the mixing valve there is 3/4" copper that extends up about 18" and is capped off.
http://bellsouthpwp2.net/m/i/mike195275/supply.JPG

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Will I run into issues having a concrete block wall with 1x2 studs?

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I don't see any problems as long as the studs cover the supplies and air chambers. I would reduce everything to 1/2" when I installed the new valve. The 3/4" is unnecessary and the 1/2" lines will fit behind the existing studs.

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I planning to go with a 2 handled valve with a diverter spout.

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Is there a reason you're not using a one handled tub valve with a cartridge instead of a two handled one with washers?

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The spout is what's more concerning. Will I need to add 2x2 or 2x4 studs for it?

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Not unless the drop from the valve to the spout sticks outside of the studs. Simply run two horizontal pieces of studding over to the drop at the elbo and nail a pipe strap across two pieces to secure the spout stubout.

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Where each line T's to the mixing valve there is 3/4" copper that extends up about 18" and is capped off.

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These are air chambers and if you wish to keep them you may reduce to 1/2" to keep the size down.

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That's got me hung up on the trap placement at the moment.

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I'm confused, weren't we discussing water and supplies? What's your problem with the traps position? Regars, Tom

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Originally Posted by speedball1

Is there a reason you're not using a one handled tub valve with a cartridge instead of a two handled one with washers?

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Just one reason, the wife says she likes this one. Brushed Nickel 2 Handle Bathroom Shower/Bathtub Faucet - eBay (item 150204187196 end time Jan-19-08 15:04:56 PST)

Is that asking for problems in the future?

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Originally Posted by speedball1

I'm confused, wern't we discussing water and supplies? What's your problem with the traps position?

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If I had to stud the wall out more, it would change the position a couple of inches.

I think I'm good to go now though.

Thanks for your help
Mike

No problem with the tub valve. Just curious. Tom

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Originally Posted by speedball1
Is there a reason you're not using a one handled tub valve with a cartridge instead of a two handled one with washers?

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Just one reason, the wife says she likes this one. Brushed Nickel 2 Handle Bathroom Shower/Bathtub Faucet.

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Washers aren't going to be a problem with this valve -- The cartridges are ceramic seated 1/4 turn ones.

This not being a pressure balanced valve is of greater concern, though -- It doesn't meet any of the Plumbing Codes adopted throughout the US -- Since this is a whirlpool tub, you'll need access to the motor, so locate a pressure balancing valve at the motor access hatch and then pipe to the valve from there.

Also, if you don't have the valve yet, I'd wait until you do before placing the tub and hooking up the trap -- A two handled valve fitting in a flat-studded wall is a rarity; Finding out that the stems protrude too far past the finished wall surface upon trim-out can be a real pain in the tukas.

The valve should come with rough-in instructions specifying just how much of the stems should protrude past the finished wall face -- Let these instructions be the deciding factor in whether you need to fur the wall out or not.

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Originally Posted by iamgrowler

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Washers aren't going to be a problem with this valve -- The cartridges are ceramic seated 1/4 turn ones.

This not being a pressure balanced valve is of greater concern, though -- It doesn't meet any of the Plumbing Codes adopted throughout the US -- Since this is a whirlpool tub, you'll need access to the motor, so locate a pressure balancing valve at the motor access hatch and then pipe to the valve from there.

Also, if you don't have the valve yet, I'd wait until you do before placing the tub and hooking up the trap -- A two handled valve fitting in a flat-studded wall is a rarity; Finding out that the stems protrude too far past the finished wall surface upon trim-out can be a real pain in the tukas.

The valve should come with rough-in instructions specifying just how much of the stems should protrude past the finished wall face -- Let these instructions be the deciding factor in whether you need to fur the wall out or not.

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It won't be that exact one, but that's what she wanted. I'll probably just go with a single handle one anyway similar to what I have now.

And no water supply hooks up to the tub itself.

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Originally Posted by mike1977

It won't be that exact one, but that's what she wanted. I'll probably just go with a single handle one anyway similar to what I have now.

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*shrugs*

You're still going to need to have the valve in hand to determine its depth before you set the tub and trap.

Valves that will fit into a flat-studded wall are the very rare exception rather than the rule.

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And no water supply hooks up to the tub itself.

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I didn't think they did.

I merely said you will need to make the motor of the Whirlpool tub accessible -- Ripping out tile, casework or wainscoting to replace a burned out, malfunctioning or recalled motor might be a real pain in the tukas later on down the road.

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Originally Posted by iamgrowler

I didn't think they did.

I merely said you will need to make the motor of the Whirlpool tub accessible -- Ripping out tile, casework or wainscoting to replace a burned out, malfunctioning or recalled motor might be a real pain in the tukas later on down the road.

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I see what you were saying. To locate a pressure balancing valve near the motor where I will have access to it.

So are pressure balancing valves a requirement?

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Originally Posted by mike1977

I see what you were saying. To locate a pressure balancing valve near the motor where I will have access to it.

So are pressure balancing valves a requirement?

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They are, but you won't need to install an auxiliary one if the new single handle valve you buy is already pressure balanced.

The two handled one on eBay, the one your Wife is attached to, isn't pressure balanced, so if you do go with that one you will need to install an auxiliary pressure balancing valve in an accessible location.