My tub/shower unit was leaking onto my downstairs bathroom ceiling. The tub/shower unit is back to back with a stall shower. When we built our house we did leave a 12 inch access that we built a removeable cabinet for. Apparently the shower head unit is leaking where the copper pipe connects to the wall. This is evidenced by green corrosion. Is there a way of using compression fittings to fix the problem, as I don't get warm and fuzzy at the thought of soldering. Also, there are no shutoff valves on either sets of plumbing. Can/should I install valves on all the lines? Thank you in advance.:rolleyes:

Skip installing the valves but you need to investigate a bit further. The green corrosion you descript may or may not be the source of your leak. With your trap door open try to determine where the leak happens and when. The drop ear elbow behind the shower head can leak but its pretty rare compared to mixing valve problems and drain problems. Come back with the results of your further investigation and we will try to help you. There are several options to the old standard soldering.

Thank you for your prompt response. The leak occurs when the mixing valve lever is switched from tub to shower. I had my son stand in the access hole while I turned the different levers and the leak is, in fact, coming from the shower head connection.

OK that is the pipe coming out of the top of the mixing valve. The other 3 pipes are hot supply on left, cold supply on right and the bottom pipe goes to your tub Spout. Is that top pipe copper that is sweated into the valve or is it connected to a male threaded adapter that was soldered onto the pipe?

If it is the threaded end of the shower spout then all you need to do is take it off and use plummers tape on it and screw it back into place. If that is not the problem then it could be the soldering has a leak. If so you need to open that area and heat up the pipe. Have the water turned off and switch it to us for the tub to drain the water out of the line. With a pare of plyers take the old fitting off as you heat it. Then clean the pipe with plummers sand paper. Till you see a shinny brass look for both connections. Then your back to soldering the pipe back in to place. If there is water in the line that you can't get out roll a pice of bread less the crust and ball it up and shove it in the line. To prevent the water coming back threw the line while soldering it back in place. As well us the past for both joints and resoldering it. Us a damp cloth if you are soldering close to wood. To prevent it catching fire. I hope I was a help.

Please wait a moment. "If it is the threaded end of the shower spout then all you need to do is take it off and use plummers tape on it and screw it back into place." This makes it sound like that riser isn't connect to anything at the other end, it is connected. There is usually a drop ear 90 elbow at the top that is nailed to a stud brace and then the pipe going through the wall to the shower head. We need to wait for Mom to come back with more info before further advice is given.

Lots of good advice here! O.k. I'm going back into the wall now to assess the type of hook up. I do know that there is a 90 degree elbow that is nailed to a stud brace and the pipe does go through the wall to the shower head. I'll get back to you when I climb back out of the wall!

Remember to carefully inspect how the up and down pipe is connected to the valve. If its soldered you'll see a bit od silver ring at the joint, threaded will show a few tyrns of thread.

Thanks ballengerb1, I'll be sure to look for the solder or threads. I haven't had a chance to look yet but will let you know as soon as I do. Thanks again, brenda.

If it's not the threaded end then please follow the other example I left for the soldering. I hope you fix the problem before it get worse. Water damage is one of the worst types of problems that can cause further damage to your house and for the health issues it can cause later on in the near future. Best of luck