 |
I've just bought a Hunter programmable thermostat. I'm replacing a non-programmable Carrier thermostat that I don't think is that old (the house is ~ 4 yrs old now). I'm not 100% sure on the wiring. Can someone verify the hookup I've used below? Thanks,
Tim
Original Carrier Wire Code => Hunter Wire Code
G => G
C => RC
R => RH
Y => Y/O
W => W/B
FYI - All of the available Hunter wire codes are RH, RC, G, Y/O,W/B and Y1.
Standard wiring convention noted above. The Hunter should have a C terminal (unless it's solely battery operated) to provide a neutral from the system to power the thermostat.Quote:
Originally Posted by gtscales
If it's solely battery operated (and judging from available terminals, it is) wire it like this:
G-G
C-abandon, tape up wire
RH-jumper wire from RC to RH
RC-R
W-W/B
And this should put you in business. If not, check the furnace and see if the 3 amp fuse is blown from the miswiring of C to RH. Replace fuse, cycle. If that doesn't work, you'll need a contractor to find and repair the open component (transformer?Thermostat?)
For the record... Hunter thermostats are simply not that good. I recommend the Honeywell Touchpro or Vision Pro stats. Much more reliable (5 year warranty) and much more accurate. Hunter makes nice ceiling fans, but falls wayyyy short on thermostat quality. Besides, with this model, when the batteries in the thermostat go dead, your system will quit working completely. With a stat powered by the furnace, you only lose power when you lose power to the furnace.
I hope this helps.
One of the best resources on the net for wiring thermostats is https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/heatin...ons-58313.html
If you don't connect the yellow wire to something, you will miss your A/C in the spring.
Note, I don't know about the Hunter, but some thermostats manage to power off the furnace without a common.
And of course, Y-Y. My bad...Quote:
Originally Posted by Frdbrkl
You're absolutely right regarding the y-y. You're also correct with the power assumption-BUT...Quote:
Originally Posted by labman
Some of the early control boards (Lennox, Trane, Carrier) had issues with the "power stealing stats" and would cause some very strange symptoms due to "feedback" issues-many simply would not work! Carrier now sells modules that wire into the furnace to provide an artificial neutral, but that is a separate component in itself separate from the furnace or transformer. I believe it's called an "Add a wire" or some such. I prefer to keep it simple, and pull a neutral (or use an unused stat wire) from the furnace and power the thermostat directly from the low voltage side. I try not to go too much in detail and keep it simple for homeowners-or they'll get lost in "information overload".
The Honeywells will work off batteries OR 24VAC (but don't use both per Honeywell tech support) just as well, but as I stated earlier-when the batteries die, so does the heating/cooling equipment.
I've been doing HVAC/R for 15 years, and have seen MANY Hunter, Maple Chase, and Lux thermostats hit the dumpster after taking a system on a joy ride-that's why my loyalty to Honeywell. With the exception of the Chronotherm 3, they're almost bulletproof.
Besides... there's a reason the Hunter is $29.95 and the Honeywell is $69.00-and it isn't all mark up. It's similar to the difference between a Yugo and a Honda. They'll both get you there, but which is more reliable-and where heating and cooling are concerned, I'll go for reliability EVERY time.
BTW... thanks for the links.
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 03:47 PM. |