I have a Bryant 90 Plus (350MAV) and have a problem. I noticed that the heater was not turning on. I opened the furnace door and found the diagnostic led flashing 1-3. Upon checking the meaning of the code, I found it referenced a dirty filter of defective blower. I shut the furnace off at the circuit breaker for 10 minutes and then turned it back on. As the thermostat called for heat, the Inducer motor started and then the flames ignited but shut down shortly after and again displayed a 1-3 flashing led diagnostic code. Is it possible that a short in blower motor may have damaged the Control Board:confused: Would the Control Board flash a different led diagnostic code if it was bad:confused: Would the Inducer motor and flame ignite if the Control Board was defective:confused:

Thanks for your comments

You might check the Flame Rollout switch . Also clean the flame sensor if so equipped.

TURN OFF POWER

Check and make sure all wires and plugs are properly seated.

Try to turn fan by hand-if it is seized up or grinds when you spin it you've figured out your problem-a new motor is in store.

Tape down the door switch to the unit (inside lower door). Pull the fan lead off the H terminal on the circuit board, move it aside (NOTE: although there are 4 speed legs on this model, only 2 are used (heat and cool), and the other 2 are plugged into "parking" terminals). Turn unit power back on, let the unit cycle through until you have around 90 seconds of main burner (you should hear the relay "click") and see if you're getting 120v from the (H)eat terminal of the control board to common. If 120v is present, and motor is not coming on, you probably need a new motor. You can change the capacitor on the motor first if you wish, as they are MUCH cheaper and easier than a motor, and it's standard practice to change them anyway when you change the motor. Knowing those units, the fan relay on the board may have taken a crap due to poor/cold solder joints-a common malady.

If you need a motor, just order a generic 3 speed, 1075 RPM, 115VAC blower motor with matching horsepower (look at the label on the old motor), AND A MATCHING CAPACITOR. DEFINITELY CHANGE CAPACITOR WITH MOTOR. Be sure to clean the blower wheel while you have the motor out, as a dirty blower wheel will cause the fan to run out of balance and wear the bushings/bearings out on the new motor rather quickly.

If you need a circuit board, you'll most likely have to call in a licensed mechanic, as Carrier/BDP will not sell parts to the general public-you must be licensed to purchase parts from them-and no, there is no generic equivalent for the HK42FZ0016 board.

SIDENOTE: Make sure kitty and other curious pets aren't around when the fan kicks on with the blower door off. That could be ugly.

I hope this helps.

If the flames are going out 1 second after ignition, use some clean steel wool and clean the flame sensing rod (small metal rod on left side of burner assembly-held in by 1 screw) as indicated by another poster. If it runs for a minute or two and shuts off, then it's a blower issue, and requires troubleshooting as already indicated.

The code 31 is a pressure switch code. Is the inducer motor operating? It is the little motor that has a disc on the front of it. If it is operating and the code goes to a 31 check for either an obstruction in the intake pipe(leaves, rocks, bees nest, birds, etc) Code 31 could also be a drain issue. The proper way to read the code is to count the short flashes first for the first number and the long flashes for the second number

I had this problem and it was a vandal who used a battery charger/booster to create a surge in the thermostat wiring outside on the A/C unit which inturn damaged the controller board for the blower fan.