I own 93 civic ex (automatic). And it won't start at all I keep getting CEL and it doesn't come off after 2 seconds. I notice that when I'm about to start the car as I'm turning the key I hear just one click that sound coming from passenger side somewhere in the back of the glove box compartment but other then just that one click I get and I don't hear my fuel pump kicking or when I open my door I don't hear it beeping... car cranks but don't turn over, I get no sparks either. I used multi meter to test all the fuses under the hood and driver side fuse box and I found couple of blown fuses.. they are all replace now but still car don't start and I have brand new distributor in my car I had it replaced 2 times already and I know for a fact its not a distributor problem cause I tried it on another civic and it works fine.. so that eliminates that problem but I want to know how to read the codes on my ecu can anyone help me out here or have other advise on what might be the problem?? :confused:

Your ECM (computer) is likely failing. Perform the K-Test on the ECM:

K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

Here's how to remove and install a new ECM:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post235038

Honda wants around $1,000 for a new ECM, with a 1-year warranty. O'Reilly Auto Parts wants around $275, with a lifetime warranty, and a used ECM from EBay goes for around $125. If the K-Test confirms the ECM is bad, replacing it should solve your problem. Ensure the new ECM exactly matches the part no. on the original ECM.

Well I wish I can do the k- test I don't have a multi meter to test it but I do have extra ecu stock p06 laying around so I went out the other day to install it and it's the same thing the check engine light is still lit... I even tried doing the paper clip test and my check engine light is still on not once it blinks or flashes to spit any codes... so what do you think it's the problem??

You really need to buy or borrow a multimeter or test light.

. Test all under-dash and under-hood fuse with a multimeter or test light. Here's how:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

. Run through the tests in Section B below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post229012

If the ECM is good (based on the K-Test), the problem is likely with a fuse, Main Relay, or ignition switch.