I left my car sitting for about 2 days. I came home tried to start it and it started, but sounded horrible. I shut it off and decided to go get new plugs and wires, (it sounded like a bad plug to me). After installing the new plugs and wires the car fired right up but still didn't sound that great. All of the sudden it just shut off, like someone just turned the key off. I was standing there looking at the motor when this happened. There were no odd noises, smells, smoke, nothing. Since then I have replaced the cap and rotor, and air filter. So all together I have replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and air filter. I also found out that my battery was bad and replaced that. I tried once again to fire it up and it turned over fine, making no strange noises or anything, sounded good, but wouldn't fire. I have replaced the timing belt twice since I've had it and it's only been 4 years. Any ideas would help. Thanks.

Perform the tests, outlined in Sections A and B, below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...das-46563.html

Most importantly, does the Check Engine Light come on and go off after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON?

I have a click before the fuel pump runs and a click after. The check engine light does come on and go out following the fuel pump running.

Replace the Ignition Control Module and coil inside the distributor:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

If you want, AutoZone can test these components for free. Should the problem persist, the CKP, TDC, and CYL sensors inside the distributor are likely bad, which will require replacing the distributor housing. Only go with a genuine Honda distributor housing, not an aftermarket. We have had many problems with new aftermarket distributor housings.

I am in the middle of trying to get the igniter out of my civic, and I'm having trouble accessing the screws that hold the igniter in there. Any tips? Am I missing something? My Chilton manual is terribly unspecific about my civic year?

. Removing coil first improves access to ignitor.

. Removing the distributor is sometimes easier. Make sure you mark the distributor and mounting bracket first; otherwise, the timing may be way off upon reinstallation.

I have the new igniter and I am getting ready to put it in. I noticed that you had said in your manual that you need to put silicon grease on the "back" of the new igniter and on the male connectors. Which side is considered the back? And which of these connections are the male, they all look similar. I tried looking in the chilton again but it doesn't tell me which connectors are which, or anything about the silicon grease.

The back is the side that contacts the heat sink. Lightly coat the four "male" connectors on the ignitor with silicone grease. Ensure the female connectors are tight, when pushed over the male connectors--squeeze with a pair of needle-nose pliers, if necessary. The manufacturer of the ignitor normally provides special heat transfer silicone grease. Don't apply a thick coating--just an average amount, evenly spread.

Did you have your old ignitor tested?

Yes I had my old one tested at auto zone, they said it was bad. I got a new one put it on and it still doesn't run. I pulled the plugs out and checked for spark when I turned the car over I have nothing. How could the igniter have been bad but a new one doesn't solve the problem?

It may be the coil is bad. Was the coil tested on AutoZone's Wells machine?

Yes it was tested the guy said it was good. I am doubting that thought now because I personally looked up how to test it and the numbers he was telling me don't match up with what they say is typical of a good coil. He just kept saying "its 1.5" and I don't know if he was talking volts or ohms. He was completely convinced that it wasn't bad because there were no hot spots on it. I looked up the testing procedure and I found one that says that it should be 0.75 - 0.81 ohms on primary and 10,000 - 11,000 ohms on secondary. Is this correct?

Coil Test:
1. Remove the two screws to disconnect the BLK/YEL and WHT/BLU wires from terminals A (+) and B (-), respectively.
2. Measure resistance (ohms) between the terminals. Replace coil if the resistance is not with specifications. Primary Winding Resistance (between A and B terminals) should be 0.6 to 0.8 ohms. Secondary Winding Resistance (between A and secondary winding terminals) should be 12.8 to 19.2 k-ohms.

1.5 ohms on the primary is too high. My gut is that the coil is bad.

No he used a multimeter

Should I just go get a multimeter and test it myself to be positive? Lately every parts store I go to I feel like they have no idea what they are doing...

Most AutoZone stores are supposed to have a sophisticated Wells machine for testing ignitors and coils. It is even supposed to simulate the heat buildup. Personally, I would replace the coil. I recommend that they be replaced, even before they fail, because the heat buildup inside the distributor is notorious for frying coils on Civics and Accords. I usually recommend 10 years or 120,000 miles, whichever comes first. If you have never replaced it, it should be done. Most Honda dealers replace numerous ignitor and coil sets each day--it's that common.

Yes, you can get a multimeter and bench test it yourself. Just be aware that many coils fail under load (heat); therefore, bench testing is of limited use. I agree--most are only clerks, with very limited experience working on cars, especially electronics.

Okay, so what your saying is that it is possible that it can test out fine if there no load on it... but fail if there is a load on it? Also if a coil is bad does it necessarily HAVE to have hot spots or burn marks on it?

Yes. When it gets heat soaked, it fails. Resistance in any circuit goes up with temperature. At room temperature the resistance (ohms) may test okay; however, when the coil gets thoroughly heat-soaked, resistance is so great in the primary and/or secondary that the spark is weak or non-existant. Look for any heat spirals on the metal shield on the coil.

Since your CEL is operating normally and the ignitor is new, the odds favor the coil being bad. There's a remote possibility the distributor is not receiving power from the ignition switch, but that's not common. If you have a tachometer, you can also disconnect the BLU wire going to it. I'd do this on the BLU wire going to the ignitor inside the distributor (easier). This would ensure the tachometer isn't shorting anything out.

In practice, it's not the remote possibilities that cause most problems. Instead, it's some electronic component that simplies wears out; e.g. ignitor, coil, distributor sensor, main relay, or ECM. Wiring (harness) problems are not the cause of many problems with Hondas. Electron migration (caused by heat) is a killer, over time, on modern-day electronics.

Well there are no heat marks on the coil, but that doesn't necessarily mean its not bad right?

Correct. How many miles are on your Civic?

Heat frequently melts or otherwise causes the insulation going to the secondary windings in the coil to brake down and short out. Once that happens, the coil is no good. Ignition coils are simple step-up transformers.