I have a project that has me at a stand still. I'm not sure how to cut molding that joins into a piece of molding that continues across a set of windows pains. It's not a corner, it's somehow has to be cut half way through the one board 6 times. I've created a diagram to explain where the cuts would be. Hopefully, you can give me an idea of how to cut this molding. The Long piece on top is all one piece that needs to join 6 different side moldings. Oh! the molding is half round with 5 arches in it. So the piece is difficult enough to cut on standard corners, but this one has me stumped. Thanks
http://www.basei.com/images/Front Window.jpg

Is the trim mirrored(symmetrical) between the two sides, or no? It would help a bunch if we had an idea of what the trim looks like, as it dictates what you'll be able to do with it to some degree.

example 1
example 2
example 3

Thanks,
Json

As schwim says, it's difficult without seeing the moulding. So, pretending. Would a router work? Cut the ends of the verticle moulding in a basic arc in the shape of the top moulding. Route the top moulding to handle the ends of the verticle moulding.

Hi schwim,

Well, it was a custom made molding, I've attached a picture to show what it looks like.
As you can see, I made a initial cut thinking I can match up at 45 degree angles cutting into the straight piece on top, but it doesn't look right. Of course the board is only 1" thick which makes it even more difficult to determine the way to connect these board together.
http://www.basei.com/images/woodwork.jpg

Hi there mbase,

Sorry for the delay in replying, I'm tiling my floor at the moment :D

The fact that the trim is mirrored makes it a little tougher and the fact that your windows are spaced
far enough apart that the two windows can't share a sigle piece, tougher still.

I see two options for you to keep it from looking odd.

1) Add a belt line or additional piece to the edge of the trim. When I make my trim, I usually have a
3/4 X 3 piece that is the main part of the trim, then I have a wrap that is 1 1/4 tall and 1/2 wide.

http://personal.schwim.net/images/share/trimwrap.jpg

It's not a very good picture because the angle is poor and the flash messes it up some, but I hope
you can see what I mean. With this method, you can either run the wrap by the verticals, but the
verticals to it, and cope the verticals wrap into the horizontal run. You can also actually follow the
edge and wrap the vert to the cap, but then you're back to mitering out a 45deg angle from your
\cap piece, which is going to cause you the same problem.

2) (My preference) If you look in the picture I posted, in the other room, you'll see that I have
windows just like yours(only 6 on one wall, and 4 on the other). I haven't pulled that room apart
yet, but I've already made the trim for it. I'll be using the same profile that's in the picture, but it
will be mirrored. Due to the exact problem that you're having, I opted for a dissimilar cap.

What I made would have a side profile like this:

-------
... )
-------
... /
... /
... /
... /
---
... )
---

and a front profile like this:

.-----------------------------------------------------------------
(... )
.-----------------------------------------------------------------
.. \... /
... \... /
... ------------------------------------------------------------
... (... )
... ------------------------------------------------------------

hehe, what an artist.

Hopefully, you get my point though. In my incredibly humble and ignorant opinion, you're not going
to make your trim look "right" without something added or modified. I think with the cap I
suggested, you have the best chance of making it look like it belongs and not like you made do with
what you had.

If you're windows don't span to the floor, you can do the same thing with the stool area, but
I would suggest going sans the taper, since you want the visual weight at the top of the long window.

thanks,
json

Hey schwim,
Hope you had a nice Christmas! I'm not sure I understand the cap suggestion, but I agree that in order to make it look right, I'm going to have to modify something.
I'm sorry to sound so ignorant, but that's because I am. Could you explain what a dissimilar cap is, and how it's works?

I really appreciate your help!

Thanks Mark

Hi there Mark,

I explained it very poorly, I'm afraid.

What I'm suggesting you do is borrow some elements from the craftsman trim style.

You can find some examples and explanations here.

In this photo:

http://www.wikihow.com/images/thumb/...e004img003.jpg

Check out the casing cap, top casing and fillet. In my example, all I suggested differently
Was rounding the edges on the cap and fillet, then beveling the top casing at like a 15deg angle.

By using this method, you can die your vertical trim right into the fillet. It's taller than your
Trim(meaning it extends further from the wall), so it doesn't look odd. Also, your style of trim
Lends itself well to the style.

This is a pic of the header of a doorway that I made for my brother-in-law. It's not tapered,
But hopefully will give you an idea of what I mean:

http://personal.schwim.net/images/share/trim.jpg

Since I didn't bring my routers or bits with me, I needed something that was easy, so all these
Pieces were purchased from Lowe's, and just assembled as you see.

Let me mention this one caveat. The reason the cap is so large in this pic is because I installed
5 1/2" tall base moulding. Don't make a cap plate that's a lot larger than the base, or it will look
Way out of place. At the most an inch or so larger.

Let me know if this post was as confusing as the last :)

Good luck!
Json

Hey, I get it! Thanks for the explanation, I think that will work out fine. The piece can easily fit into the cap, instead of trying to force something that's going to look weird.

Thanks for you advise.

Mark