 |
I want to install a water supply line for the ice maker in a new refrigerator. Are the piercing saddle valves safe? I am worried that it might leak after a while. Is it better to install a real brass T with a 1/4 inch valve?
Also, I noticed a recommendation on this site to tap the HOT water supply, rather than the cold water. I am afraid that might affect the ice maker filter. Am I wrong?
Thanks,
In each of the three homes I've owned I've installed the line using a piercing saddle valve and never had a problem.
And tap the HOT line? I've always tapped the cold... I can't imagine why they would recommend tapping the hot.
The reason given was to reduce the oxygen level in the water, in order to reduce bacterial growth.
Maybe that's why I've got this strange green hair growing on my tongue!
... just kidding, of course! :p
Which line to tap, then, is completely up to you. I can't help but think, though, that if you use the icemaker a lot, then the electric usage will be very high freezing all that hot water.
I think it just comes down to how confident you are in your city's water...
Hey Venik,Quote:
Originally Posted by venik
Saddle valves have been used for years with no problems. While soldered connections and fitting are considered to be more leak proof you run the risk of disturbing minerals that have built up in the pipe walls over time. These will be sucked up into the sinks faucet and clog up the inlet ports. The saddle valve is a lot easier to install and will not disturb your pipes. I opt fot the saddle valve.
" I noticed a recommendation on this site to tap the HOT water supply, rather than the cold water. I am afraid that might affect the ice maker filter. Am I wrong?"
Yes, you're wrong. The water in the line will be room temperature no matter if hot or cold due to the time the water sets in the 1/8" icemaker line before the ice maker makes a draw. The reason we recomend hot water that the water will set in the water heater and deoxygenate, (that's a fancy word for "lets the air bubbles out".)
Less air bubbles in a ice cube means a clearer ice cube.
Good luck, Tom
Interesting-- the ice maker kits mention a connection to the cold water. I guess that a long copper tube from the sink to the ice maker will lose a lot of heat, but the plastic one I got might lose less. How much air is in the water is supposed to affect the taste of drinks, which is why they always tell you to boil freshly drawn water for tea or coffee. Oh well, all these hard life choices!
I have used self piercing saddle valves to supply ice maker and evaporative cooler and not had a problem with leaks. The problem I have had is the inability to turn off the water flow completely after a few years. If time and money permit, I would go with the brass fitting and a stainless 1/4 turn ball valve. A question of adequate vs best.
I am a big fan of ball valves. I might go with the ease of the saddle valve and then stick a ball valve at the refrigerator end of the line.
It's dealers choice as to connecting to hot or cold water for a icemaker line. And Rick, I hope you were joking when you said, "I can't help but think, though, that if you use the icemaker alot, then the electric usage will be very high freezing all that hot water."Quote:
Originally Posted by venik
(1) the water that sets in the 1/8" ice maker line will be room temperture before it ever gets to the ice maker.
(2) the ammount of water that a 1/8 th inch line will hold isn't the same as taking a bath or shower. It's a very small ammount.
(3) The volume of draw from a ice maker isn't enough to worry about a increased electric bill.
Venik said, "The reason given was to reduce the oxygen level in the water, in order to reduce bacterial growth."
Not in any of my posts it wasn't. It's simple reasoning. The more air in the water the milkier the ice cube. (Hot or cold has nothing to do with the taste)
When water sets in a water heater, or for that matter any tank, for any length of time the air in the water will raise to the top and escape. Less air= less bubbles. Less bubbles= clearer ice cubes. The water isn't hot when it enters the ice maker, it's room temperature from setting in the line untill the ice maker makes a draw. It all boils down to simple physics. I realize the manufactures recomend tapping a cold line but this is what we have found in my area that the customers prefer. As I said it's "dealers choice". We have just found that using water with less air content will make a clearer ice cube.
I just thought I'd clear up my statement. Cheers, Tom
Further Googling has shown that in some places the saddle piercing valve is about to be declared as not meeting the plumbing code, perhaps because of the reported inability to shut off the water with these valves.
Quick while you can still be grandfathered.
Venik,
"the saddle piercing valve is about to be declared as not meeting the plumbing code, perhaps because of the reported inability to shut off the water with these valves."
The reason shut off valves, (not only saddle valves) stick is that people open them up to the max and then leave them there. This is especially true with angle stops under your cabinets. If people would open up a shut off valve to the max and then back it off 1/4 turn it wouldn't hang up. (a little tip learned over the years) regards, Tom
I have just installed a new valve, and I'm waiting for the device to go behind it (therefore no back pressure). Trouble is when fully shut it still lets out about a gallon in 7 hours. Does anyone know if this is normal or a defective valve?
Hello WannaBplumeber,
This a 6 years old post, strt your own thread that it will have more visibilty and it will be on top of the page and some will respond to your question, I will tell that the valve is leaking and you need to repair or replace it, good luck.
John
How to shut off the piercing valve? I have a pinhole leak after the valve on the plastic tubing and the valve is "supposedly" in the closed position; but the it still leaks - a big dilemma - any suggestions please?
I have changed out 100's of saddle valves, & am thankful for the work; I can count on one hand the number of ball valves I have replaced. De - pressurizing & draining domestic water piping for repair can result in sediment & scale scrub upon re pressurization; the solid fundamental practice of thoroughly flushing the piping before putting it back into service will reduce the chance of fouling.
The taste & odor of water in tank style water heaters is greatly influenced by the sediment build up in the bottom of the tank, pressure differential, chemical / physical characteristics of the incoming water, and the reaction of the heaters anode rod to the various water conditons. Water in cold water storage tanks ( typically well tanks), will absorb any air it comes in contact with over time.
I always prefer to connect a residential ice maker to an accessible cold water line using copper tubing, a charcoal activated filter, and a ball valve...
Hi cbazzaba
If the saddle valve will not shut completely you should probably shut off the main water supply to the home and make the repair to the plastic tubing (1/4" compression coupling will work).
When you turn the water main back on be sure to flush the main line through an outside faucet or other faucet without an aerator or screen to clear the line and keep most sediment/sludge from clogging things up in the house.
You may also consider removing the old saddle valve and install a new 1/2" copper x 1/4" compression shutoff for best result in the long run. SHARKBITE or GATORBITE fittings are DIY friendly and just push on to the pipe... no soldering required so this may be a good idea if you want to fix this 100%!
Good luck!
Mark
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 10:18 PM. |