I lose water pressure at least once a day. The pressure switch is new. Water pressure will drop to 20psi and I have no water pressure. I then lift the lever on the switch and the pump operates at the 30 to 50psi like it should. I drained the bladder tank and made sure it has the 28 psi recommended. Sometimes this won't happen for days.

Any help or ideas would be appreciated,

CFrank

Just out of curiosity, why did you replace the old switch? Was the old switch doing this?

At any rate, next time the switch fails to turn the pump on, pull the cover and see if the points are closed. Since the manual override works, it sounds as if they are not, but if they are, and the pump is not on, then use an emory board to file the points (turn power off first). Of course, the switch being new, that should not be a problem but it's worth looking into. After filing, try it again. If they are closed, and you know power is getting through the switch, then the switch would seem to be OK.

If the points are not closed, then pull the switch and make sure the pipe leading to the switch is not clogged... has been known to happen. If that is not a problem, then replace the switch. You should be able to get the switch exchanged, as new as it is.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jlisenbe

Just out of curiosity, why did you replace the old switch? Was the old switch doing this?

At any rate, next time the switch fails to turn the pump on, pull the cover and see if the points are closed. Since the manual override works, it sounds as if they are not, but if they are, and the pump is not on, then use an emory board to file the points (turn power off first). Of course, the switch being new, that should not be a problem but it's worth looking into. After filing, try it again. If they are closed, and you know power is getting through the switch, then the switch would seem to be OK.

If the points are not closed, then pull the switch and make sure the pipe leading to the switch is not clogged...has been known to happen. If that is not a problem, then replace the switch. You should be able to get the switch exchanged, as new as it is.

---

I was told to remove the pressure switch to see if the tube leading to it was obstructed. I found some rusty dirt in the switch opening. Instead of scraping it out I just replaced the switch with a new one. I felt good that I had solved the problem but the water shut off again the next day. I was also told to drain the tank and check the air pressure in it. It had 17psi in it so I filled it to the recommended 28psi. No change I still have occasional loss of water. Thanks for the reply,
CFrank

Well, the good news is that you now know that the switch in not the problem. Be aware that the tube leading to the switch could be clogged. IF you just cleaned out the rust at the switch entrance, there could be an obstruction in the tube itself. At any rate, if you are satisfied that that is not the answer, then make sure you have power past the switch. Use a voltmeter to be sure. Both terminals should show 110 volts to ground or 220 volts to each other (white to black). Do you have a submersible pump or is your pump above ground?

I did clean the tube when I replaced the switch. I am in the process of borrowing an ampmeter from work to check the amp readings on the black and white wires that feed the switch. I will check the voltage at the same time. By the way it is a submersable pump 200 feet down.

Thanks again,
CFrank

Is there another box after the switch before the wire goes down the well shaft? Some submersibles have the capacitor above ground. Could be a problem there. Could be a problem with the wiring to the pump but that would more normally short to the well casing and throw the breaker. I would not think you have a problem with the water table dropping since the pump will come on and pump when you turn the manual lever on the switch. I'm still puzzled by the fact that the manual lever will make the pump work. That sounds like the points are not closing for some reason. Be sure to check those points to make sure they are closed during those times the pump is supposed to be on but is not coming on.

How old is the pump?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jlisenbe

Is there another box after the switch before the wire goes down the well shaft? Some submersibles have the capacitor above ground. Could be a problem there. Could be a problem with the wiring to the pump but that would more normally short to the well casing and throw the breaker. I would not think you have a problem with the water table dropping since the pump will come on and pump when you turn the manual lever on the switch. I'm still puzzled by the fact that the manual lever will make the pump work. That sounds like the points are not closing for some reason. Be sure to check those points to make sure they are closed during those times the pump is supposed to be on but is not coming on.

How old is the pump?

---

The pump is about 15 years old. I checked out all the easy things that could be wrong. Time to call in the Professional.
Thanks for the replys,
CFrank

Just had this happen to me. Port leading to tube for pressure switch was clogged. Stuck a straight piece of clothes hanger in hole and broke clog.Went from having a trickle to a gush of water. Keep in mind,there should be a pretty good stream of flow from pump to switch.I replaced the 1/4" copper tubing with clear plastic hose (150 psi rating) so I can see the flow. Plus,it's 1000 times easier to work with.

I have the same thing happening to me with my well. I tried three switches. May work for days or may not start several times in a day. I have not tried cleaning the pipe to the switch. One thing I did notice and wonder if this could be a clue. The pressure gauge always reads ZERO when I go to turn the switch on, but the instant I manually engage the switch the pressure jumps to the poundage that I have in the bladder. Shouldn't it start to climb from zero rather than immediately jump to 37 PSI ( I have a 40 - 60 switch)

Jerry M

You are correct pressure should start a zero (40# if every think were functioning properly) and build gradually. Where is the pressure gauge and switch located, on the tank or on the well piping. If on the piping, do you have a check valve between gauge and the tank?

Post picture of setup if you can.

My problem is I can switch manual switch on and off to get pressure but pump won't run by itself well is 500 ft

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bassmaster1163

my problem is i can switch manual switch on and off to get pressure but pump wont run by itself well is 500 ft

---

Check the air tube for rust and dirt, not uncommon. Diaphragm could be bad. The electrical side must be good or the pump would not run. Standard Pumptrol switch is $30 or less.