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-   -   Basement shower (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=15803)

  • Dec 6, 2005, 04:25 PM
    cherisse80
    Basement shower
    So here is the problem... My husband installed a new shower head, which works fine. But now the neck of the shower pipe is leaking at the wall and down the wall... Coming out under the walls and making a horrible mess. Is there any way we can fix this or are we going to have to tear something's out? Please Help!! :eek:
  • Dec 7, 2005, 03:28 AM
    RickJ
    Remove the neck, re-wrap it with teflon tape, then screw it back in.

    When you're putting it back in, never turn it backwards. Go slowly and be sure you stop at the turn when it's tightest pointing down, and you're sure it won't go another "lap".

    If you go too far, then have to back up (turn counter-clockwise) to get it to point down, you may end up with a leak again.
  • Dec 7, 2005, 08:46 PM
    cherisse80
    What if the neck doesn't seem to want to thread back in? We got it out and put the tape on but now it isn't going in... but we will keep at it till our arms fall off!
    Thank you! :confused:
  • Dec 8, 2005, 03:15 AM
    RickJ
    Lol, sometimes even our maintenance guys struggle with them. Since it's curved, it's sometimes tricky to hold the part that threads in straight.

    Be sure there's nothing obstructing the threads, and keep trying.

    ... and by the way, don't go more than two layers with the teflon tape wrap.

    ... here's to hoping you got it on before you see this http://www.jackson8.com/images/amhd/thumb.gif
  • Dec 8, 2005, 01:11 PM
    cherisse80
    GRR... I've stuck my finger in there and I don't even feel any threads for the neck to screw into. Is there any chance that we somehow broke it. Do you know of any links that we can see some pictures of what the piping is suppose to look like? When I look in it appears to have some kind of nut where the neck came out... Also we cut a hole from the back to see if we could acess it but there are so many beams... I hope we aren't making this worse!! :(
  • Dec 8, 2005, 01:50 PM
    speedball1
    Cherisse,

    Let me show you what's back in the wall the chrome shower arm screws into.
    It's called a drop ear ell, (see below) and is attached to a crosspiece with wood screws. The arm screws into that. Shine a light in there and see if the threads are clear. If not take a small sharp chisel and see if you can get it under the broken threads. Once under the threads start to lever them up and peel them out of the ell. Now you'll be able to tape the threads and screw the shower arm back into the drop ear ell. Good luck, tom
  • Dec 8, 2005, 03:03 PM
    cherisse80
    I could be wrong but I don't think that is the same part cause ours doesn't have the threads like that. If it's any help these are all copper pipes and very old probably from the 60's. Is there any chance that the part that should be the Drop ear ell used to be all one part with the pipe? I'm just so confused why ours doesn't have the threads... Maybe it wasn't even installed properly to start with. Thanks so much for all your help and advice so far!! We really appreciate it! :o
  • Dec 8, 2005, 03:57 PM
    speedball1
    Cherisse,

    We have always used drop ear ells to connect the shower arm to. Perhaps if your house was built in the 30's it would be truebut in the 60's that's whatwe used and still use to securethe shower head. The threads are are broke off in the fitting that's why it feels smooth. Shine a light in there. Good luck, Tom
  • Dec 9, 2005, 12:48 AM
    cherisse80
    OK... So basically we are going to have to replace the drop ear ell. Is that going to require sautering? (excuse my spelling) We have pretty much come to the conclusion that we are going to have to open up that wall so it looks like we get a new shower. I suppose it's time anyway. So any advice or tips on redoing the tiles or the pipes please feel free to let me know. Thanks again!! I may be back sooner than I think ;)
  • Dec 9, 2005, 04:55 AM
    speedball1
    "OK...So basically we are going to have to replace the drop ear ell. Is that going to require sautering? (excuse my spelling)"

    Not if you follow my directions and yes the ell is soldered on to the shower raiser.
    Take a small sharp chisel and see if you can get it under the broken threads. Once under the threads start to lever them up and peel them out of the ell. Now you'll be able to tape the threads and screw the shower arm back into the drop ear ell.
    Before you get all drastic and start tearing up walls and removing tile try to remove the broken threads out of the dropear ell. Good luck, Tom
  • Dec 9, 2005, 11:58 AM
    cherisse80
    We'll see what we can do with the chisel... Unfortunately though we do have to get drastic and tear down at least one wall cause we found mildew on the dry wall. But thanks for trying to make it better!


    Alas... I can not seem to make a difference with the chisel. But looks like we have to have the wall down anyway cause we keep finding more mildew. I do appreciate the advice... As we all know, you can't win them all! :(
  • Dec 14, 2005, 11:01 PM
    cherisse80
    Quick Update
    Just wanted to let you know that the reason the pipe felt so smooth inside wasn't because the threads were worn down but the pipe had in fact broken off inside the pipe...
  • Dec 15, 2005, 05:54 AM
    speedball1
    Hi Cherisse,

    "Just wanted to let you know that the reason the pipe felt so smooth inside wasn't because the threads were worn down but the pipe had in fact broken off inside the pipe."

    "That's what I've been saying all along. I never said the threads were wore down. Here's what I advised and still do.
    "OK... So basically we are going to have to replace the drop ear ell. Is that going to require sautering? (excuse my spelling)"

    Not if you follow my directions and yes the ell is soldered on to the shower raiser.
    Take a small sharp chisel and see if you can get it under the broken threads. Once under the threads start to lever them up and peel them out of the ell. Now you'll be able to tape the threads and screw the shower arm back into the drop ear ell.
    Before you get all drastic and start tearing up walls and removing tile try to remove the broken threads out of the dropear ell. Good luck, Tom"

    By now you should have removed the broken threads and have a new shower arm installed. Regards, Tom
  • Dec 15, 2005, 10:37 PM
    James W. Acker
    Needle nose pliers
    Speedball gave you very sound advise about trying o get the broken threads out if that is the problem. If you can get just a small part of the old thread started to turn up then you can catch that small part with needle nose pliers and turn the pliers like you were bending a wire and the threads will come out. If the broken threads is the problem and you can not get them out. Call a plumber, he should be able to get the threads our for the price of a service call which should be some where in the $60 range, which would be cheaper than tearing up a bunch of tile and walls.
  • Dec 16, 2005, 12:10 AM
    cherisse80
    Thanks
    Thanks for trying but I don't see how I could have got to the threads with a piece of the shower neck still in there. Guess it doesn't matter now anyway... We ended up having to just gut the shower and decided to redo the whole thing due to age among other issues. I appreciate the help and advice!;)
  • Dec 16, 2005, 07:22 AM
    speedball1
    Good morning Cherisse,

    There's a tool that all us old timey plumbers that worked with threaded galvanized pipe have used when threads broke off in a female fitting, It called a "Easy-Out" and if you can locate a 1/2" Easy-Out you could back those broken threads right outta there. I realize that this can be frustrating for a home owner but I gave you the very best advice I could based on over 50 years out in the field. Perhaps you will have to unsolder that drop ear ell and solder in a new one. but I try to discourage home owners from soldering with a open flame inside a wall. If a fire starts it can go up the enclosed wall space to the attic and cause much damage. That's why I always have a bucket of water handy if I have to solder inside a wall. I would like to thank James Acker, (another "old timey" plumber) for his support and, Oh Yes Cherisse, I understand your frustration so you're forgiven for giving me a bad rating. Cheers, Tom
  • Dec 16, 2005, 03:02 PM
    cherisse80
    Sorry about the rating... even with an experts advice it can still come across as a foreign language. I really have been appreciating all the help and advice! Thanks again!:D

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