Ask Me Help Desk - Venting and priming

Hello all. I am hoping this message will get to Speedball as he has already been involved and helped me earlier. Thanks, spirock

Hi again Speedball

You helped me earlier with my laundry room which has had an addition, and the sink and the washer and dryer moved.

Per you previously

#1) Long drain run OK but use sweeps and cleanouts in the corners, rather than 90’s.You didn’t like sweeps but if it had to be done, do it. (done)

#2) Use proper slopes and pipe sizes for drains and vent (done)

#3) You didn’t understand my venting information See asterisk in main diagram showing where the drain and vent to roof are in the utility room. See asterisk at bottom of page showing how the drain/vent was set up. I cut the old T out which faced the old washing machine direction and put in a new T facing to the new drain. I have also put a 2” vent beside the new washing machine and have run it up through the attic of the new addition and reconnected it into the original roof vent.

#4) I have not vented the new sink as I am draining directly into the new drain , and I am only 4 feet from the vent. Should I run a vent right behind the new sink and connect it into the main vent as I did with the new washing machine.

#5) Something I didn’t bring up before: Right beside the drain in the utility room, see (?) there is a ¾ inch copper pipe coming up out of the floor. It has been enclosed in some sort of flexible poly pipe below the floor, I know this, as part of the poly shows above the floor. I take it that this is to stop the below ground copper from deteriorating. Is that correct?

Some other questions about this are:

(a) I believe it to be a primer pipe to keep the floor drain traps full, and that there should have been a small plastic piping hooked up to the cold side of the laundry room faucet so each time the cold water in the laundry room sink turns on, it would send small amounts of water to the floor drain traps to keep them wet .There was nothing hooked up to the old laundry sink faucet. Should there have been as stated above?

(b) If the above pipe is what I think, and that it should be hooked up properly, I can only find laundry room faucets that have a small tube outlet on them and I want to put a high end faucet in the new sink. I cannot find a high end faucet with a small tube outlet, so can I solder a shut off valve to it and run the valve to the cold water line in the utility room and just open the valve every couple of months to keep the traps wet.

(c) If you don’t have alternative suggestions re hooking up the small tube to a high end faucet, and you tell me the valve addition won’t work for manually keeping the traps wet in the floor, can I just cap the floor drains and cement them in?

Thanks once again speedball,, Spirock.

See diagram below
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...dryroom001.jpg

Quote:

I have not vented the new sink as I am draining directly into the new drain , and I am only 4 feet from the vent. Should I run a vent right behind the new sink and connect it into the main vent as I did with the new washing machine.

Your sink's vented if the vent's a dry vent.

Quote:

Something I didn't bring up before: Right beside the drain in the utility room, see (?) there is a ¾ inch copper pipe coming up out of the floor. It has been enclosed in some sort of flexible poly pipe below the floor, I know this, as part of the poly shows above the floor. I take it that this is to stop the below ground copper from deteriorating. Is that correct?

Correct! We sleeve all copper pipes coming through cement

Some other questions about this are:

(a) I believe it to be a primer pipe to keep the floor drain traps full, and that there should have been a small plastic piping hooked up to the cold side of the laundry room faucet so each time the cold water in the laundry room sink turns on, it would send small amounts of water to the floor drain traps to keep them wet .There was nothing hooked up to the old laundry sink faucet. Should there have been as stated above?

(b) If the above pipe is what I think, and that it should be hooked up properly, I can only find laundry room faucets that have a small tube outlet on them and I want to put a high end faucet in the new sink. I cannot find a high end faucet with a small tube outlet, so can I solder a shut off valve to it and run the valve to the cold water line in the utility room and just open the valve every couple of months to keep the traps wet.

First find out for sure. Blow in the copper pipe and you should hear air in the floor drains. Here's a idea. Why not install a high end kitchen faucet with a spray attachment. You now have the option of connecting 18th inch tubing in place of the sprayer or get a 1/8th" street tee or a nipple and a tee and connect the trap primer to the tee along with the sprayer. That way every time you turned on the faucet it would fill the traps as long asw you ran water. Sound like a plan? Regards, Tom

Quote:

Originally Posted by speedball1

Your sink's vented if the vent's a dry vent.

First find out for sure. Blow in the copper pipe and you should hear air in the floor drains. Here's a idea. Why not install a high end kitchen faucet with a spray attachment. You now have the option of connecting 18th inch tubing in place of the sprayer or get a 1/8th" street tee or a nipple and a tee and connect the trap primer to the tee along with the sprayer. That way every time you turned on the faucet it would fill the traps as long asw you ran water. Sound like a plan? regards, Tom

Hi Tom... I won't be back at my house until Monday to try the air test on the floor drains, and if indeed it is the primer tube for the drains, what an absolutely great solution you came up with, in using the sprayer in one of two ways.

I really appreciate your great advice and knowledge.

Thanks, Bob