Just bought an 88 CRX DX and had the entire brake system replaced as they were... and are still locking up. Car came from GA to FL so no major weather change.

The brakes lock up after about 10 minutes driving and of course the longer I try and drive
The worse it gets (as I have repeatedly had to crawl to the nearest gas station)
My mechanic is perplexed and now frustrated though I have spent my money there and
They have to fix it due to liability.

The car has lowering springs and low profiles and I am wondering if any of this would
Affect the brakes (I doubt it?)
The mechanic said he had to replace some valve which they bought from the wreckers
As you cannot seem to buy them new anymore?

This is a real challenging question as it has not been an easy replacement and repair and I hope that someone with the experience can help me.

Thanks
Damo

There's not much that can cause locking up and you didn't indicate if it was a single wheel or just the front or rear brakes. The wheel cylinders and calipers will generally unstick.

I don't know if your car has ABS and if it did, I don't think I can help with that system.

If it doesn't, then the proportioning valve would be a good candidate. It applies unequal force to the front and back wheels because of the center of gravity of the car. If it wasn't there, you'd end up with jerky stops and uneven brake front/rear brake wear.

If you follow the master cylinder brake lines, it will go into a block of sorts before going to each of the wheels. That's the proportioning valve.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid

There's not much that can cause locking up and you didn't indicate if it was a single wheel or just the front or rear brakes. The wheel cylinders and calipers will generally unstick.

I don't know if your car has ABS and if it did, I don't think I can help with that system.

If it doesn't, then the proportioning valve would be a good candidate. It applies unequal force to the front and back wheels because of the center of gravity of the car. If it wasn't there, you'd end up with jerky stops and uneven brake front/rear brake wear.

If you follow the master cylinder brake lines, it will go into a block of sorts before going to each of the wheels. That's the proportioning valve.

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Thanks for your answer.
No ABS. and it was the front and back though now seems to be just the front after all
The new parts were put on.

Try lubricating the caliper pins with silicone grease. If they don't "float" properly, they can lock up badly. Easy job.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

Try lubricating the caliper pins with silicone grease. If they don't "float" properly, they can lock up badly. Easy job.

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Thanks for that.
But should that be necessary with new calipers?
Went to see car today and they had replaced the m cylinder again saying the previous new
One may had been falty? This is becoming a nightmare but I will tell them about the silicone? Any other suggestions apart from that? Could anything else be related, i.e. steering
Shocks... anything?

Thanks again.

Is the brake pedal returning all the way up? Did you happen to notice if the brake lamps are staying on..
You may need to install an additional return spring. A brake pedal that even lightly applies the brakes, will cause the braking surfaces to become heated, causing more drag and slowing the vehicle.

Gave me a new suggestion to troubleshoot the problem

A new suggestion to trouble shoot problem... need all I can get at this stage.

Yes. This factor is often overlooked when doing a brake job, new calipers or old. Don't use just any high-temperature grease--it won't hold up and will contribute to brakes grabbing and locking up. Only use silicone grease, Squeak Relief (silicone grease with moly), or possibly a synthetic brake caliper grease made by CRC.

Wow I really hope it is this simple!
Thanks and I will convey to the 'mechanic'

I usually use Motorcraft Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound (XG-3-A). It's available at your local Ford or Lincoln/Mercury dealer. Honda only recommends silicone grease to lubricate caliper pins.

Did you use Honda pads or aftermarket? The compounding material makes a difference. If your Civic came with organic pads, don't use semi-metallic pads, for instance. Semi-metallic pads generate much more heat, which is also transmitted to the discs, calipers, and brake fluid.

Well one thing I know is that the low pro tires and lowering springs aren't affecting anything, and I agree with captainrich... you made need to check your return spring, see if you brake pedal has a more spongey feel when you press it down or a harder more stiff feel to it, I know its not much but I just wanted to throw in my two cents, hope it helps some