Just bought a new house. One toilet needs replacing. Water supply valve is almost dead center with toilet/flange making installation of new toilet difficult, if not impossible. I need to move the water supply valve. I believe I can get away with running pipe OUTSIDE of the wall (e.g. using the existing pipe that sticks out of the wall, remove current valve, then attach some elbow/bend to it and run that for a few inches and then put the valve back on).

I took a look at this question and it is close to what I need, but I am hoping someone can explain it like they are talking to a 5 year old. Like, I don't know what a 1/2" street elll is, etc.

Also, given the fact that I don't what most of the parts are referred to in the answer to the above question, would you suggest I even attempt this myself? I need a torch to solder right? Ugh, this might be tougher than I thought...

This isn't a difficult job, just shut off the water at the stop cock (little valve under the toilet). Your current pipe between the stop cock and the toilet can be many different types of piping such as semi-rigid chrome on copper, PVC, braded flex. Unscrew the small nut on top of the stop cock and pull the pipe out, chances are 99.9% this is a compression fittng, now reach up and unscrew the larger plastic nut under the tank and the whole pipe will come away. I would guess this pipe is 10-14" at most and you can replace it with a longer 18" braded flex pipe, no soldering or repiping needed. When you get to the home center plumbing aisle there will be several silver braded pipes that look very similar. They are labeled and you need the one mark toilet. Its ends should match the pipe you are throwing out.

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Originally Posted by fattymelt

Just bought a new house. One toilet needs replacing. Water supply valve is almost dead center with toilet/flange making installation of new toilet difficult, if not impossible. I need to move the water supply valve. I believe I can get away with running pipe OUTSIDE of the wall (e.g. using the existing pipe that sticks out of the wall, remove current valve, then attach some elbow/bend to it and run that for a few inches and then put the valve back on).

I took a look at this question and it is close to what I need, but I am hoping someone can explain it like they are talking to a 5 year old. Like, I don't know what a 1/2" street elll is, etc.

Also, given the fact that I don't what most of the parts are referred to in the answer to the above question, would you suggest I even attempt this myself? I need a torch to solder right? Ugh, this might be tougher than I thought...

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I may have used the wrong terminology. I need to move what you are referring to as the "stop cock." So I have a wall, and a tiny length of straight pipe (perpendicular to the wall) and then a valve. This valve is centered with the flange and the toilet I bought needs more room. I would have a 12" rough-in, but because this valve sticks out right in the middle, it cuts my rough-in down to 10.5" or so. So, I need to move that valve.

Hope I have explained correctly.

OK I understand but normally that pipe coming out of the wall might be 2-4" into the room and then the stop cock adds another inch so you are 5" into the room. Is that stop cock actually touching the toilet? If you remove the stop cock and add an elbow you really aren't saving much space since the elbow can also add an inch. What is the pipe coming out of the wall, galvanized and threaded or chrome woith a compression fitting? We may have to shorten that pipe.

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Originally Posted by ballengerb1

OK I understand but normally that pipe coming out of the wall might be 2-4" into the room and then the stop cock adds another inch so you are 5" into the room. Is that stop cock actually touching the toilet?? If you remove the stop cock and add an elbow you really aren't saving much space since the elbow can also add an inch. What is the pipe coming out of the wall, galvanized and threaded or chrome woith a compression fitting? We may have to shorten that pipe.

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Good question... I don't believe the whole thing is threaded... otherwise, how would I know the difference between galvanized and chrome? Chrome should by shiny?

I believe you are correct that the pipe would have to be shortened. If that is case, we are talking cutting pipe, soldering pipe, etc. correct? If so, I think I better have a pro do it.

Even if it doesn't have to be shortened, we are still talking about soldering (to get the elbow on), which again, I think calls for a pro since I have never done anything like that.

This probably isn't the best first plumbing project.

Before anyone can guess what to do,how is the stop cock attached to the plumbing in the wall. Soldered or a fitting of some sort?

If it's soldered, you will have to be proficient with soldering for this repair. It will require a heat shield.

You could move it behind the drywall for a professional look or on top of the drywall.

If it's soldered, it should NOT be your first plumbing project.

Take a picture and use "go advanced" to post it. The shareware program Irfanview can resize the image.

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Originally Posted by KeepItSimpleStupid

This probably isn't the best first plumbing project.

Before anyone can guess what to do,how is the stop cock attached to the plumbing in the wall. Soldered or a fitting of some sort?

If it's soldered, you will have to be proficient with soldering for this repair. It will require a heat shield.

You could move it behind the drywall for a professional look or on top of the drywall.

If it's soldered, it should NOT be your first plumbing project.

Take a picture and use "go advanced" to post it. The shareware program Irfanview can resize the image.

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I'm actually going to be out of town for a few days. I will post a picture when I return and restart the discussion. Hopefully you will "subscribe" to it, and see my post later...

THANKS!

Perhaps I should wait for the picture. Depending exactly what you have, this should not require and cutting and soldering. Do you understand pipe thread? Not everything that is hollow and threaded is pipe thread. Pipe thread tapers slightly and screws into a tapered thread sealing to itself. 1/2'' pipe is about 13/16'' outside diameter, OD. 1/2'' copper tubing is just over 5/8'' OD. Those shut offs, angle stops, stop cocks, valves, etc. usually have a fitting on a vertical pipe inside the wall that turns 90 degrees and is threaded, a female pipe adapter or elbow. Then there is a short piece of chromed brass pipe threaded into the elbow, a nipple. The valve is screwed onto the outside end of the nipple. If that is what you have, then you can unscrew the nipple, and replace it with a shorter one. To ease starting the new one, you may need to enlarge the hole in the drywall a little, but the plate will still cover it. Depending how tight things are, you might even have to make the hole big enough for the end of the valve to be inside the wall.

All is not lost if the nipple coming through the wall (stub out) is copper tubing. Whack it off, smooth up the end, and slip on a Shark Bite elbow. They are expensive, but slick. You may have to go to an Ace Hardware or plumbing supply to find one. They just slip over the end of a copper pipe or plastic of the same size, and seal to it.

Once you have the valve relocated, proceed with the flexible line suggested in the first answer.

OK we look forward to your picture. Soldering is only done on copper pipe not the threaded pipes.