Hello:

My 1992 honda civic won't start enen after replacing the distributor and fuel pump as suggested by a Mechanic. I opened the both connecting tubes to the fuel filter, no fuel coming to there when started (engine cranks normally). When key turned to position I, I heard one click from the ignition switch, when turned to position II, I heard second click from ignition switch. At this movement, all lights came up, after two seconds, SRS light went off. But Check engine light, battery light and fuel pressure light stayed on.

I did not hear any fuel pump sound or any click from the Main Relay as suggested by experts on this website. Maybe due to I don't to how to hear those sounds.

The car had rough start for quite some time. During the past summer, at least 4-5 times it won't start when I left work around 4:00-4:30 PM. Had to push it to start. Then three weeks ago, I started like normally from the parking position. When put the transmission to "D" and planned to drive away. The engine just dead without any warning.

Please help!

Is this due to main relay gone bad? Or ECU problem. Car has 120000mi, never changed main relay or ECU except most other parts were replaced.

Perform the tests in Sections A and B below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...das-46563.html

Sounds like the ECM is bad; therefore, be sure and run the K-Test.

Thanks for the advice. I definitely want to to the k-test. But where is the MAP sensor connector you are talking about for 1992 honda civic. Execuse me I don't know much about car.

It's on the passenger side of the firewall, just to the right of the fuel filter. It has a hose that runs to the throttle body.

You are unbelievably good at cars! Million times better than the guy (mechanic) who came to fix my car (according to his diagnosis and suggestion, I replaced with new distributor, new fuel pump. Now I am prety sure is a waste of money)Txgreaemonkey! Thanks you.

Reason:

Last evening after work, without knowing where MAP sensor is (sorry, I did not come back after my new question), I tried to go directly to the ECU as you suggested, Took me about 15 minutes to take it down. Once I open the ECU, you gess what? a strong plastic burning smell came out. When look closely, a microtube(Idon't know what it's name) with a "+" on the back burned badly. ECU gone bad as you precisely said. How can I not believe and respect you? Many thanks. I should came to ask here first.

Now any suggestion for buying the ECU. You suggested to another people to buy from Cardone's from Oreilly. Checked with them, I can't order that one on-line and there is no oreilly store around here. The ECU is 37820-P06-A50. I am thinking to replace the main relay as well, Is this a good idea? I took it out just a couple of hours ago.

Thanks again

Very precise, very helpful

. If you plan on keeping the car for a long time, shop around and try to get a life-time warranty on a remanufactured ECM. Otherwise, just go for the best deal you can find.

. Yes, I think it would be a good preventive maintenance move to replace the main relay, at this time. After doing this, you will have replaced the key electrical components on your Civic, which should ensure "like new performance and reliability" for years to come. Towards that goal, the following link may help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post219991

Good job!


Advance Auto Parts has this deal going (only 1 year warranty):

While we find your parts, please enter your ZIP Code at PartsAmerica.com

If you order online and pick it up at your local AAP store, you can take an additional 10% off. Take your old ECM in, when you go, to satisfy the core deposit.

Hello, everyone, hello, Txgreasemonkey:

I am glad to inform you that the civic is back to live after replacing ECM and Main relay! It runs great!

All I can advise to the members here is this: That under the help of experts from this forum, you surely CAN do it by youslef. Don't fear.

However I notice that the needle for temperature meter lost function, it stays at 0 after long distance drive. How to fix this? Any suggestions? Thanks

If the K-Test helped you identify a bad ECM, could I get you to update the K-Test Poll?

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ht=k-test+poll

For your temperature gauge problem:

. Test all under-dash fuses (might be Fuse #15) with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

. Check for corrosion on the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sending unit or its connector.

. Perform resistance checks, by disconnecting the YEL/GRN wire from the ECT sending unit. Measure resistance between the positive ECT sending unit terminal and engine ground:

Engine Cold--142 ohms
Engine Hot (185 to 212 degrees F)--49 to 32 ohms

If the obtained readings are substantially different from those above, replace the ECT sending unit.

. Ensure thermostat is working properly.