To summarize, I have a light on a 3 way switch that will not go off via the switches. I replaced both switches with new 3 way switches and the light still won't go off.

We have a hall light that has one switch upstairs and one switch downstairs. The light won't go off so I changed the switches and replaced the old switches with new 3-way switches on both ends.

On the upstairs switch, were two black wires (old ones with a cloth type insulation) and one black wire with plastic insulation. The black plastic covered wire was on a black screw and the cloth covered wires were on brass colored screws on the old switch. I put the black plastic covered wire onto the black screw on the new switch, and the two old cloth covered wires onto the two brass screws on the switch.

Downstairs, there were two black wires and one white wire. The white one was connected to the black screw so I assumed it was the live wire and connected that one to the black screw on the new switch, and the two black wires I connected to the two brass screws on the new switch.

Thinking I was all done, I switched the power back on and the light still stays on all the time, even after turning the light switches off. I don't know much about wiring, but I had assumed that all power to the light would be cut off if a working switch is turned off.

The only thing I can think of is that one of the new switches I bought is also broken, but that seems so unlikely. Any other suggestions on how to troubleshoot this issue?

Mr. Cogan,

I would either hire an electrician because the wiring to the switches is mucked up or I suggest that you go to Lowe's, Home Depot or Barnes and Noble and pick up Black and Decker's, "Complete Home Wiring" that shows you how to wire two, three and four way switches.

However, I strongly suggest calling the electrician.

I would try this:
1) Turn power off for safety if needed.
2) Remove all wires from both switches.
3) Determine which of those 6 wires is hot, and connect to dark screw of that switch.
4) Connect remaining 2 wires and connect to that same switch.
5) Go to other switch and with power on, determine which wire is hot, identify.
6) Go back to first wired switch, and switch to other position, and see which wire is now hot, those 2 wires are the travellers and connect to the same colored screws.
7) The remaining wire goes to the light, and should connect to that switch dark screw.
Note: the 2 wires(travellers)go from 2 same colored screws from one switch to 2 same colored screws on other switch.
The single dark screw on one of the 3 ways is always hot, and the other switch dark screw goes to light.
Good luck.
Also, 1 of the switches could be bad.

If the problem is the switches were miswired, Stratmando's system will work. Could we have a little history? Did the switches ever work? What was done when they quit working? If nothing, it is possible a couple of the wires shorted together. After step 2, check all he wires to see if any pair of them show a very low resistance. If so, they are shorted, and you will have to track down where and perhaps replace them. The pair that goes to the light should show about 30 ohms. If none of them are shorted, turn the power back on and go ahead with step 3.

To do simple checks like this you do need some tools. A test light, a meter, or a voltage detector might be the best place to start with. I came across the niftiest gadget for trouble shooting, a voltage detector. They work through the insulation of wires. There are several brands. I have a GB Instruments GVD-505A, less than $15 at Home Depot. Touch it to a hot wire, and the end glows red. Find the doodad that lights it on one side, and not the other, and you have the culprit. You do not have to open up housings and expose electrical contacts. You are looking at where your hand is, not where the meter is. Most people are capable of doing repairs and will get it going and not get hurt if they use a little sense. The voltage detector makes it even easier.

I am replacing some old can lights with some new ones - the two cans aer on a three way switch and the wire from the switch to the old cans was a 12-3 - the way the cans were wired had the red wire twisted together while the white and black wires fed the lights - after the second canister light there was another wire (12-2) which looked like it feed back to the panel. When I wired the lights with the red wires being the runner and then tieing the 2 wire in with the white and black I wasn't able to turn the light off - what is up