Kitchen table is made of knotty pine. Top finish is rather worn and because the wood is a soft wood, you can read everything anyone has written on the table (kids homework). The rest of the table is in good shape. I believe the top of the table is a pine vaneer.
Would like to paint the entire kitchen set a flat black or brown and sand the edges for a worn rustic look. What is the proper way to fix the written indentions and prepare the surface prior to painting? Also, for a brush stroke free look, would it be better to use some type of spray paint. Would also like to prevent the writing from appearing on the table in the future= would a couple applications of a clear finish help with that? Advise.

Other than the indentations from the kids writing utensils, is the table top perfectly smooth and free of holes?

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Originally Posted by Clough

Other than the indentations from the kids writing utensils, is the table top perfectly smooth and free of holes?

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Table is fairly smooth, there are some small indentions/holes from children using utensils(fork holes) otherwise in fair condition.

I just sent you a private message to call your attention that I was here. Did you receive it?

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Originally Posted by gale1

Table is fairly smooth, there are some small indentions/holes from children using utensils(fork holes) otherwise in fair condition.

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How deep are the deepest indentations and holes, please?

Also, how thick would you say the very top piece of finish veneer is? (Usually, there are more that one sheet of veneer, a thick one for support of the finish veneer and then the finish veneer which might be no more than 1/16th of an inch thick.)

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Originally Posted by Clough

How deep are the deepest indentations and holes, please?

Also, how thick would you say the very top piece of finish veneer is? (Usually, there are more that one sheet of veneer, a thick one for support of the finish veneer and then the finish veneer which might be no more than 1/16th of an inch thick.)

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Table has very small holes from children's using fork prongs on the table. Vaneer is very thin. This was an inexpensive table, so I doubt there is a thicker vaneer beneath.?
Would fill and sand if it would have a better result.
Also considered using a crackel finish over the natual pine color.

Do you want the surface of this table to be really durable, like for everyday use? If you do, then I wouldn't suggest using the crackle finish. Although attractive, it wouldn't be very durable.

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Originally Posted by Clough

Do you want the surface of this table to be really durable, like for everyday use? If you do, then I wouldn't suggest using the crackle finish. Although attractive, it wouldn't be very durable.

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Crackle was not my first choice. Need durability,sometimes as many as 7 sit at this table for eating and homework everyday.

Don't mind the small holes from forks-it gives it character.Do mind the hand writing though. Best to sand with 200 grit sand paper first? This is not my first time redoing/refinishing a piece of furniture... it is my first time painting vaneer, especially with the writing.

Okay. So we don't need to get rid of the holes. I like the idea for the character of the table. It actually is part of the memory of it.

I don't think that there is a 200 grit sandpaper. Usually the jump is from 180 to 220.

Do you own a palm sander? Knowing that will help us to determine the grits of abrasive paper to use.

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Originally Posted by Clough

Okay. So we don't need to get rid of the wholes. I like the idea for the character of the table. It actually is part of the memory of it.

I don't think that there is a 200 grit sandpaper. Usually the jump is from 180 to 220.

Do you own a palm sander? Knowing that will help us to determine the grits of abrasive paper to use.

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Yes me too. I have or have acess to most tools. What are your recommendations for sanding and I assume I would use a steel wool on everything else to rough the other surfaces up? Clean with tac cloth and so on. Mineral spirits?
Is there a better no sheen paint on the market for furniture? Also, would several clear coats be beneficial for durability?Have only worked with wood stains before.
Got to go for now. Will check back tomorrow for your reply. Thanks so much for your help!!

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Originally posted by gale1
Yes me too. I have or have acess to most tools.

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Even a compressor and a spray gun? Because using higher solids paints is going to be the way to go. Unless the painted surface has at least to or three coats of polyurethan or a high-solids lacquer.

Do you have an idea as to what time you will be on tomorrow? I am usually on late at night.

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Originally Posted by Clough
Okay. So we don't need to get rid of the wholes. I like the idea for the character of the table. It actually is part of the memory of it.

I don't think that there is a 200 grit sandpaper. Usually the jump is from 180 to 220.

Do you own a palm sander? Knowing that will help us to determine the grits of abrasive paper to use.

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Originally Posted by gale1

yes me too. I have or have acess to most tools. What are your recommendations for sanding and I assume I would use a steel wool on everything else to rough the other surfaces up? Clean with tac cloth and so on. Mineral spirits?
Is there a better no sheen paint on the market for furniture? Also, would several clear coats be beneficial for durability?Have only worked with wood stains before.
Got to go for now. Will check back tomorrow for your reply. Thanks so much for your help!!

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If the table has has any sort of finish on it already, then I would use a liquid or paste stripper to get the finish off it. I use large putty knives, 00 steel wool and lacquer thinner for the clean-off of old finish. Also, lots of paper towels. Of course, adequate ventilation, gloves, goggles and a respirator are a must.

If it already has a finish on it, and you try to sand it off, then you are going to be using a lot of abrasive paper because the finish will be clogging up the paper. You also risk fish-eye and pin-holing in the finish if you don't use a liquid or paste paint stripper in order to remove all of the finish.

If you do use a palm sander, then I would use 100 grit aluminum oxide for a first sanding. And then, 150 grit for a final sand before applying the primer.

If you use several coats of a high solids, low sheen enamel, you should be fine. They would be the most durable. High quality lacquers that have a high solids content will also be fine. They are also easier to touch up then enamels. You can use several coats of a low-sheen polyurethane as top coats over the paint. But, if the table top gets marred, it's going to be harder to touch it up so that it looks really good. Using clear top coats is also going to make it difficult for you to get the low-sheen that I think that you want.

You are wanting no sheen or a flat type finish. Correct?

The preferred method would be to spray a finish on so that you don't have the brush marks that you are trying to avoid. However, if you are not able to spray the finish on, then brushing will work. In order to get rid of the brush marks (what little of them there will be) then you can wet sand using the black wet-dry papers. You spray water on the dry finish and then sand it using these papers. You would need to be using papers that are 320 grit first and then I would go to a 400 grit paper for the final sand.

If you do manage to spray on the coats of paint or if you are going to be brushing, I would recommend practicing first on a large board that can be discarded later if you don't need it for anything else. You would do the same steps in the finishing process like you will be doing on the table.

Between coat sanding can also be accomplish by using a 240 grit abrasive paper with the palm sander. But, because this is paint, you are more likely to clog up the abrasive paper more quickly.

I look forward to further dialogue with you concerning this.

By-the-way, satin or semi-gloss enamels and lacquers can both be ground down by wet sanding to produce a low-sheen finish.

After reading this thread I was thinking this;

If you are going to paint it and make it 'antiqued' try this:

1) Scuff the surface with 80-100 grit sandpaper

2) Prime the surface with a good primer, preferably sprayed on to eliminate brush strokes, as you mentioned that as a concern.

3) paint other colors around the edges only.( where you were going to put scuff marks giving it the 'Used' look.)

4) Paint with the black and scuff the edges

5) Clear coat new surface with polyurethane or spray on lacquer.Polyurethane is a more durable finish.

By painting you limit the small voids, but not eliminate them.

When you scuff the edges, the many layers of different colors underneath will make the appearance of an antique.

Cheating in Craps – Table Preparation
Cheating in craps is not a very worthwhile project, since the casinos are very careful to watch for suspicious behavior both via video camera systems and live security personnel. The craps table crew also checks the components for each day's games, including the table, dice and chips. The boxman at the craps table is also responsible for during-game security maintenance to ensure fair play.
Finding ways to cheat in craps are not difficult, but enacting the cheating process on those is far more complicated. Making loaded dice and getting the manipulated dice into play are harder projects than they seem. The easiest means of cheating in craps is actually stealing chips from the table, but it is equally as likely to get caught as more technical and extensive methods such as magnetizing the table. These craps cheating methods, however, both require some form of table preparation.
Table Preparation: Advance “Surveillance”
For the low-technology cheater, the table preparation means he may employ will involve some form of surveying the craps table area to first determine the most common traffic flow patterns around the particular table he is targeting. Additionally, watching and even playing a few rounds of craps will be helpful, both to keep from arousing suspicions, but also to ensure the thief knows the patterns of the game. This will allow him to determine the best times to make his chip grabs.
During the intended game, the cheater must carefully participate in the energy around the table, but not draw too much attention to himself. Likewise, he must continually be in and out of the space around the table. There need to be just enough onlookers, but not too many people to crowd out his access to the table. All of these are changing variables, and regardless of what a person plans to accomplish his cheating at craps, the plan will often be thwarted.
Table Preparation: Magnetic Tables
Though only a small handful of craps cheaters go as far as trying to manipulate the table itself, a few do still try. This is on the opposite side of the low-technology chips theft. In fact, table preparation on this level requires some serious engineering skills and special tools. In a casino setting, unless there was a team of people planning a casino rip-off, including workers inside the casino, this kind of craps cheating and table preparation is virtually impossible with constant casino security. A player who wants to cheat at craps by table preparation will more likely be doing that at a local or private craps table, or building an already rigged table for personal or community use.
The table preparation for this level of cheating involves wiring a magnetic coil under the felt of the craps table in various positions. If a player is building a table, or a crooked casino is trying to cheat patrons, wiring the magnet in during the table's construction makes the most sense. Otherwise, the cheater needs to carefully stretch a very thin magnetic wire around the betting zones on the table where the dice will frequently be thrown. This magnetic wire gets attached to an electric signal that can turn on and off. When the signal is switched on, this creates an electromagnet.
In addition to this, the dice need to be manipulated as well, for the whole system to work. Small pieces of metal are placed inside one side of the dice, as with other forms of loaded dice, to cause the dice to land with the desired number up. When the electromagnet is turned on, the metal in the dice allows the magnetic pull to impact the roll of the dice. If the magnet is off, the dice will behave normally.
Since the consequences and restrictions for owners and managers of gambling establishments are even more strict than for patrons, players should be confident that legitimate casinos do not attempt this kind of cheating. Honest casinos make enough profit from honest players that additional illegal methods like this are truly unnecessary. As well, the fines, penalties and costs of this level of illegal activity for a casino operator make this kind of cheating scheme a worthless pursuit.
Indeed, cheating in craps by table preparation is possible. However, for someone who is trying to really cheat the game, there are much simpler and truly more effective means of cheating. This is not a recommendation or agreement with cheating in craps, but merely description of cheating methodology. Legitimate players have far better attentions to focus on and illegitimate players would serve themselves better by learning ways to win at the game of craps, or another, rather than spending the energy trying to cheat it.
Kitchen table is made of knotty pine. Top finish is rather worn and because the wood is a soft wood, you can read everything anyone has written on the table (kids homework). The rest of the table is in good shape. I believe the top of the table is a pine vaneer.
Would like to paint the entire kitchen set a flat black or brown and sand the edges for a worn rustic look. What is the proper way to fix the written indentions and prepare the surface prior to painting? Also, for a brush stroke free look, would it be better to use some type of spray paint