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-   -   Wiring a hot tub 60 amp (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=148371)

  • Nov 4, 2007, 08:02 AM
    djh218
    Wiring a hot tub 60 amp
    Ok, new here, and trying to get a hot tub wired up at home. I have a VITA spa, Château model and it calls for 240v 60 amp service. Have added 60 amp GFCI in outdoor subanel 25 ft away from hot tub. Have 60 amp breaker for panel, 200 amp entrance. At hot tub, I have a connection plate on a printed circuit board that has three connections - "load 1/neutral", then "ground", then "load 2". These are arranged vertically, and the ground connection has a small gauge bare copper wire in between the two load connections that goes outside the plastic box that contains the printed circuit board. Now I have a 4 wire coming into the box - black, red, white and bare ground. Why does it say "load 1/neutral"?
    I figure black goes to load 1, red to load 2 and bare to ground. WHere does the white lead (neutral) go? Please HELP! Have a friend who is a licensed electrician, but he is not available till next week. Will have him check all connections prior to powering up. Thanks!
    Dan
  • Nov 4, 2007, 01:02 PM
    donf
    DJH,

    Where are the instructions that came with the spa? What is your level of expertise?

    Is the GFCI Breaker properly installed in your indoor panel?

    Can you scan and attach a schematic of the wiring instructions and a schematic of the way you have wired the spa?
  • Nov 4, 2007, 02:00 PM
    KISS
    This might help bunches:

    Here is an example spa wiring: http://barefootspas.com/pdf/WiringDiagramSiemens.pdf

    There must be a neutral to the 240 GFCI breaker.
  • Nov 4, 2007, 02:03 PM
    labman
    Is is possible your hot tub is meant to be used with European electric service? It may not have any 120 volt components and wouldn't need a neutral. The heating elements should work fine connected as you say. Could be a problems with any motors meant for 50 Hertz current.
  • Nov 5, 2007, 07:27 AM
    djh218
    Spa directions very general, not specific, no wiring diagrams. I have done most electrical projects at home, on my own, including adding circuit breakers to the main panel. I have a 60 amp breaker (non GFCI) in the panel, wired to a sub-panel on the outside of the building, where the GFCI breaker is located. All hookups so far have confirmed to the diagram Keep provided. The spa was bought from VITA spas, at NYS Fair, and I don't think it was meant for Europen usage. All markings on the spa indicate 240V 60 amps. The lady at the company says "wire nut the white(neutral) wire, and hook up the two hot wires (red and black) and ground the bare ground wire to the appropriate ground bus." But I would think that the white (neutral) lead should be hooked up somewhere to make the GFCI breaker work properly. Thanks for all the answers, and the help.
    Dan
  • Nov 5, 2007, 08:10 AM
    KISS
    A reminder that for sub-panels, ground and neutral should remain separate.

    Note, that in this picture: panel box

    The neutral from the main panel feeds the neutral bar in the sub-panel. The SPA controller also gets connected to the Neutral BAR. Note that there is one extra wire, from the GFCI breaker to the Neutral bar.

    The ground bar is separate.
  • Nov 5, 2007, 11:00 AM
    labman
    How old is this thing? Older ranges and dryers used a single wire for the neutral and ground. I would dig into the spa wiring and see if you have conductivity between any of the hots and ground. You would need to work from the load side of any relays. If there are any motors, lights, or controls getting 120 from a hot and the ground, the GFCI will trip.

    If not, it should work if you connect the hots, ground, and then connect the neutral to the GFCI neutral.
  • Nov 13, 2007, 08:00 PM
    djh218
    Thanks for all the help. Got connections completed. Everything works fine! Lic electrician who checked my work wants to hire me!
    Dan
  • Nov 13, 2007, 10:49 PM
    Washington1
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by djh218
    Thanks for all the help. Got connections completed. Everything works fine! Lic electrician who checked my work wants to hire me!
    Dan

    Now that's funny! :D

    Good input lab!
  • Jun 22, 2008, 07:51 AM
    edmcmaster
    Comment on KISS's post
    Loads of help ty
  • Aug 17, 2009, 08:17 AM
    idiotboy
    Part of the unit needs 110V to operate things like light lights, displays, stereos etc. The white neutral wire is needed to complete a 110V circuit on either of the hot sides. If you look at an electric stove, you will see that it requires a neutral wire as well for the clock, lights etc. 220v-240v is for high drawing elements. It is generally the same configuration for hot tub... You have probably figured it out months ago... Don't be discouraged by those fear driven selfish know it alls, with questions like "are you a licensed qualified electrician and other gooobly gob B.S. designed to discourage others. Sounds like you have done a fine job..
  • Aug 17, 2009, 08:19 AM
    idiotboy
    Ooops I see I was late

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