I have 100amp service panel for my entire house. I am wanting to upgrade to 200amp and have bought a new service panel. I am comfortable working with this type of project but the only thing I am unsure of and cannot get a straight answer on is if I can just install the new panel, removing the old, or is there something else I need to do also. Such as get a new service from the electric company or will just installing the new 200 amp service panel be safe? Thanks for any help.:confused:

There are many issues here to consider - the first one being why are you upgrading - do you actually need the additional capacity? - or - do you just need more distribution space ?

If the latter then just add a sub panel - if not and you need the additional capacity then there are many more items to consider and I suggest you contact a licensed electrical contractor. However if you insist on doing this yourself some items listed below for your info:
1. what is your current meter rating ? If it is 100a then you will need a new meter socket and meter -(also what is your curent peak loading? And normal load? )
2. contact power company to determine if your incoming service conductors will handle and are rated for 200a load
3. your side of the service feeders will need to be 3/0 copper
4. the ground also will need to be changed to #4 and bonded properly
5. a supplemental ground will also have to be added if not exist now at the meter socket
5A. All of the above grounding conductors will have to be bonded together properly and at the proper points including the grounded conductor (neutral) and don't forget the street side connection the to water meter and the bonding jumper
6. most municipalities will require an electrical permit for this work and an inspection before allowing the power company to energize the new service - check with your town for their requirements

The above is not all inclusive and there are more details to this than you may realize - also note - the above info is based on the current NEC - yor area may or may not have different requirements

Hope this helps and again I suggest contacting a licensed electrical contractor, rg

While the majority of the information of the previous answer is valid, I have a few comments.

Simply asking a homeonwer if additional capacity is needed is not much help.

If any additions of space or appliances have been done or is planned, the service entrance raing needs to be re-calculated to determine the minimum size service required for the calculated connected load. This is outlined in Article 220, and is not for a DIY'er to tackle. Best to have an electrician perform these calcs.

If the total square foot of livable space is provided, along with a list of all major electric applinces, including size of air conditioning, I can provide the service size.

The actual utility meter will not state the ampearge rating of the service, this can be determined by the size conductors at the meter and panel.

I assure you that if your exisitng panel is 100 amp, the entire serivce is only rated 100 amps, and must be replaced with new conduit, 200 amp rated conductor, and a 200 amp rated meter socket.

Since this is residential, the service entrance conductors are allowed to be #2/0 copper or #4/0 aluminum.

The utility may only , and usually only,consult on their conductors feeding the builidng, and not know if the customer owned service entrance conductor size or rating.

The utility does need to be consulted for service location, metering requirements, and installation requirements. They need to disconnect their wiring to de-energize the serivce to allow for any changes. They also will require any local inspections before the new service will be connected.

The best advice you received is that this is not a simple project, and may be best done by a professional.

Re: your comments

>"Simply asking a homeonwer if additional capacity is needed is not much help."
True > that is why in item 1 I suggested that he get the peak and normal loads

>"The actual utility meter will not state the ampearge rating of the service,"
Not True - all GE & Westinghouse single phase meters 100a/200a , at least in this area , are load identified by a label to the left of the meter id... the load capacity is indicated by "CL100" or "CL200" followed by the delta or wye symbol - at any rate the best method is to check the mains rating in the panel

Hope this sheds some light, rg

From the prospective of somebody that might style themselves a venturesome DIY. I studied and rejected upgrading from 100 to 200 amps. There were several discouraging factors. After my neighbor, the industrial electrician, replaced his box himself, the power company refused to upgrade his service. On their web site, they have a form asking for both what new uses I had or planned and the name of the contractor doing the work. tkrussell has done a number of service calculations here, and I don't think such would justify upgrading my panel, or at the most it would be marginal. I don't remember the lights dimming the way they used to, and concluded I could do without the expense of the 200 amp upgrade even if the electric company would do it.

I am putting the final touches on adding a generator back feed breaker, inlet plug, and interlock, see https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/electr...se-123290.html I also added a whole house surge protector. To make room for everything, I added a sub panel. Before which, I carefully studied my service and usage. Another factor in not upgrading was calculating how much of my current 100 amp service I can run at once on my 30 amp generator. One thing I like about the interlock is being able to run any circuit on the generator.

I can't eyeball my service wiring and give the likely size or read any labels. Measuring it, I come up with #4 aluminum from the pole, and #0 copper from the meter to the breaker. The meter is a GE CL 200. It is only 10-15 years old, the rest dates from 1970.

The house is about 1900 sqft, gas furnace, dryer, and hot water heater. The A/C is 25 amps at 240 volts, and the range is 10.9 KW on a 40 amp breaker*. Also a 5 amps at 240 volts pump. I have already reduced the load by switching to CFL's. I figure as we replace older appliances, the newer ones will be more efficient. If we really need to, we could replace the electric range with gas.

Bottom line, I don't think we need 200 amps, but if we did, I am afraid DIY stops at the main breaker.

*If the range is 10.9 KW on a 40 amp breaker, might it pop if we had all 4 burners on high and the oven on at once?

No need for light here, only for the DIY'ers. They deserve the best answer, as simple and clear as possible.

Many utilities, because of the popularity of 200 amp services, use them in the lesser 100 amp services, keeps inventory simple, lower cost to volume buying, and a beefier unit. This can mislead a layperson.

Peak and demand are in Kilowatts and the formula P=EI is needed to convert that into amps for the homeowner.

That is why I want DIY'ers to use a more definite source of data. Make them work for it, they get to look closer what has been there all along.

Putting the requirements aside for a minute, I did DIY my own 200A panel about 10 years ago under permit. I had to replace the conductors all the way up the mast and do the live line connections.

It was fairly straight forward and there were no problems at all - but it scared the heck out of me and I would not do it again now that I am older and wiser (& more able to afford others to do it! :-) ). I just had the same inspector back to look at some kitchen wiring. He remembered me and told me that in his 30+ year career, I was still the only homeowner to do their own service up to the utility connection.

Perhaps you can install the panel and leave the service entrance to others?

Thanks for all your help. I ended up getting an electrician to do the job.