I have a 98 accord, has run perfect for 10 years. The other day doing 60 down the road it just shut down. No lack of power, no rough running, just shut down. Coasted to side, it cranked over fine but would not start. Waited 5 minutes, started took back off a mile down the road at 60 again it just shut down. I have already had the factory recall on the ignition switch replaced. It has shown a check engine light for over a year. Mech ran code again and said it was either a bad o2 sensor or catalytic con. However he doesn't think that would just make it stop all of a sudden. He said if the converter was that bad it would run rough, it doesn't. He could not find any more codes. He pulled the dist cap and said it looked worn. Parts are ordered. He took it for a long test drive and it would not do what I said. Would a bad o2 or converter just make the car shut off

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by robbert

i have a 98 accord, has run perfect for 10 years. the other day doing 60 down the road it just shut down. no lack of power, no rough running, just shut down. coasted to side, it cranked over fine but would not start. waited 5 minutes, started took back off a mile down the road at 60 again it just shut down. I have already had the factory recall on the ignition switch replaced. It has shown a check engine light for over a year. mech ran code again and said it was either a bad o2 sensor or catalytic con. however he doesnt think that would just make it stop all of a sudden. he said if the converter was that bad it would run rough, it doesnt. he could not find any more codes. he pulled the dist cap and said it looked worn. parts are ordered. he took it for a long test drive and it would not do what i said. would a bad o2 or converter just make the car shut off

---

Not likely.
The problem may be a failing ignition control module or the ignition coil.
Another possibility may be fuel pressure/volume.
The key here is to being able to diag the car in the failed condition.
If the converter was faulty, it would set a code. If it were partially clogged, you would likely experience a gradual loss of power. Not a complete and instant shut down, as you've described.

It also has been known for the recalled key switch to go bad again, go buy an adjustable spark tester at your local discount store. Be prepaired to do some diagnosis on the side of the road. The ignition coil could be overheating, the spark tester will get you to the point you need to be. Find your fuel filter and see if there is a 12mm bolt on top or on the fuel rail there will be a test port with a 12mm bolt, this is where you will check for fuel pressure during a no start also have your wrench ready, time will be limited. More info to come.

I'm certain your problem is electrical-related; therefore, perform the tests in Sections A and B below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...das-46563.html

You will likely find out that the problem is related to Ignition Control Module, coil, ECM, or distributor failure (internal sensors).