I am only able to start my car once the check engine light turns-off. When it turns-off there seems to be a click & something being primed?? Once the check engine light is off the car starts without any problems. If I try to start the car with the check engine light on the motor will not turn over. It wasn't that big of a deal when the check engine light would extinguish within a few seconds, but it seems to take longer and longer each day from a cold start. Definitely can not be in a rush or late to work. Please help with any suggestions on where I should look. The battery was tested & tests fine.

I'm virtually certain your ECM is failing. Perform the K-Test below for proof:

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multi-meter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

You can buy a Cardone remanufactured ECM from O'Reilly Auto Parts for around $275, which will come with a lifetime warranty. Honda wants around $1,000 for a new ECM, with a 1-year warranty. You can also take your chances and see what's available on EBay.

Here's how to replace the ECM yourself:

1. Disconnect negative battery cable, after recording radio codes.
2. Remove right door sill molding, pull carpet back, and expose ECM.
3. Remove three 10 mm bolts and one 10 mm nut securing ECM cover.
4. Separate ECM cover from harness carefully.
5. Press connector release, going to connectors A, B, and D, and carefully pry connectors from ECM, using a small screwdriver.
6. Plug connectors into new ECM and button up.

This is all true, first clean that main ECU ground at the thermostat housing, removeit, brush it up a bit, reinstall it and see if your light goes off faster, 2 ~ 3 seconds. The main relay is what you hear click and the fuel pump is controlled by the main relay so you hear it purge the fuel rail for the few seconds that the light is on, you may not get a start while the light is on because you don't have enough fuel pressure built up to get the car started, your words, "the motor will not turn over". You mean the starter will engage but the engine will not start, correct. The other half of the main relay powers up the ECU, a portion of it, powers up the fuel injectors too. Ultimetly the ECU is keeping your CEL on longer and longer it sounds like what you are saying, clean the ground, but perform txgreasemonkeys test first then again after the ground cleaning to see if it helped so like he mentioned, I am going to say DO NOT put your volt meter at the thermostat ECU ground so that you do not disturb it, ground your negative test lead to the battery negative post.