Ask Me Help Desk - Painting siding on a 6/12 roof

Thanks in advance for any help.

I have a cedar sided home that needs some touch-up paint work around a sided chimney.

The chimney has an "outhouse" sized enclosure on a 6/12 pitched roof. While I have no problems getting up on that roof, it will not be easy to carry a paint brush or roller or whatever to paint the siding. I'm not sure I can even set a paint can anywhere without it spilling.

Can anyone suggest how to paint this so I can get up there just once and get this done quickly. I'm thinking of some kind of harness, backpack, or paint system that I can carry and still let me move around easily to still paint the siding quickly.

To gain access a roof line to paint a gable end of a dormer,I have used roofing brackets and a board(ie,2X10).

A rental shop should have the available(maybe)

The type I am referring to are called SLATERS brackets,The unit is flat with a tongue extending out for nailing down to the roof,(nail UNDER the shingle so as not to cause a future leak)once nailed the 2 part hinged face lifts and can be adjusted to make a flat,level surface,with 2 brackets installed,a board can be placed on the top making a platform to work from.

This is a routine operation for a roofer,you might also contact a roofing outfit to get them to install this properly.

Hope this helps,
Ken

Quote:

Originally Posted by KBC

To gain access a roof line to paint a gable end of a dormer,I have used roofing brackets and a board(ie,2X10)....The type I am referring to are called SLATERS brackets

Thanks. I have seen these used during roofing operations. And it does sound like the safest way to go.

My biggest concern is not causing a roof leak. Are there tricks to nailing down the brackets (underneath shingles) so you don't cause a roof leak.

Sure,by lifting the shingle with a flat bar,exposing the nail line(just under the flap of the shingle tab)installing the bracket with a 12d or 16d nail leaving it up just a bit(you still have to remove the bracket after your done)when you finish,remove the bracket and pound down the nail,just like a roof nail.

PS,If you have 3 tab shingles(3 evenly spaced 'tabs')a bracket needs to be installed on top of the rounded slot(where there are roofing nails)
If your roof is newer,dimensional/architectural type,lifting and being able to nail is a little tougher,but NEVER nail where 2 shingles come together on their ends,that's just a leak waiting to happen.

As far as tricks,
When loosening a shingle,its best done early in the Am before the sun hits it too much,this keeps the bond line stiff and brittle(to an extent)freeing the tab above it easily(repeated swipes with the flat bar,just enough to free the tab,not to rip it!)

Placing the left hand with thumb down,pinky and ring finger holding the now freed tab up,and holding the nail in the index/middle fingers,this opens a space for nailing 'underneath' the tab works best.Also you do not have to nail the bracket in,just the nail first,then slide the bracket tongue in,remembering to leave space for easy removal.

Hope this enough for you,good luck,

Ken

Quote:

Originally Posted by KBC

Sure,by lifting the shingle with a flat bar,exposing the nail line(just under the flap of the shingle tab)installing the bracket with a 12d or 16d nail leaving it up just a bit(you still have to remove the bracket after your done)when you finish,remove the bracket and pound down the nail,just like a roof nail.

PS,If you have 3 tab shingles(3 evenly spaced 'tabs')a bracket needs to be installed on top of the rounded slot(where there are roofing nails)
If your roof is newer,dimensional/architectural type,lifting and being able to nail is a little tougher,but NEVER nail where 2 shingles come together on their ends,thats just a leak waiting to happen.

As far as tricks,
When loosening a shingle,its best done early in the Am before the sun hits it too much,this keeps the bond line stiff and brittle(to an extent)freeing the tab above it easily(repeated swipes with the flat bar,just enough to free the tab,not to rip it!)

Placing the left hand with thumb down,pinky and ring finger holding the now freed tab up,and holding the nail in the index/middle fingers,this opens a space for nailing 'underneath' the tab works best.Also you do not have to nail the bracket in,just the nail first,then slide the bracket tongue in,remembering to leave space for easy removal.

Hope this enough for you,good luck,

Ken

Thanks, that helps a bunch!

If you are doing touch up you might consider a paint stick, about $11. These sticks have a plungerr inside and can suck up about a cup of paint. A small paint pad slips onto the end and you can pull a trigger that releases some paint to the pad, good for latex only.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ballengerb1

If you are jst doing touch up you might consider a paint stick, about $11. These sticks have a plungerr inside and can suck up about a cup of paint. A small paint pad slips onto the end and you can pull a trigger that releases some paint to the pad, good for latex only.

Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately, I need to paint all the siding, and it is "ship-lap" (I think that's what its called) with a one-to-two inch tongue groove. So I need a way to paint the groove. I'll see what I can come up with perhaps something with a pad I can change on the spot for difference sizes. I'm also using stain.