In Seattle, where high loops don't give the inspectors the warm fuzzies I'm doing a kitchen w/ granite counters and I don't want the airgap on the counter and I don't care for filling the hole with a soap dispenser after final. So I'm back the Johnson Tee (which I haven't installed in years). So I'm attaching a photo/diagram to see if I've got the plan right. Red is 1.5"ABS, Blue is 2" and black is 1/2" copper. Do I need a cleanout between the san t's? Have I got this right?

http://homepage.mac.com/riverwader/....johnsontee.jpg

(or is this all an elaborate rube to watch growler and speedball go at it again?) :D ;)

Your observations are appreciated.

A Johnson Tee, (see image) is just another way to say washer stand pipe. While a clean out would be real handy if you want to stay off the roof when you snake the drain line it isn't required. Your configuration's going to work just fine. I don't care for counter top air gaps for two reasons, 1) they choke down the discharge and if clogs up you have the entire washer discharge on your floor and counter top and 2) they take more time and labor to install. Working under my code I have a choice between installing a high loop or a counter top air gap while growler's forced to use the counter top one. While we my differ on some points there's respect on both sides. Growlers more up to date on the newer stuff while I go back over 50 years to when plumbing was all cast iron and galvanized water pipes. So it all evens out. Good luck on your project, Tom

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I go back over 50 years to when plumbing was all cast iron and galvanized water pipes. So it all evens out. Good luck on your project, Tom

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Tom,
I'm curious if you still have your old tools? I've my Grandfather from the late 1800 ,early 1900. We lost the iron for the gas blow torch, man there hard to locate. Thanks for all the help you give.

Thanks Tom,

My poke at you and growler was in good nature, it comes from my search on the subject here and a couple very helpful and entertaining threads I found.

Your drawing doesn't have a kitchen sink on it so although it illustrates the johnson tee it doesn't really illustrate the application. I did cross post this question elsewhere and it is really becoming obvious that this is almost an exclusively Puget Sound area question. I don't think the fitting is utilized or accepted anywhere else, and I wonder if it can even be purchased elsewhere. Apparently it was invented by a Seattle inspector. I'm told my illustration was the way it was done earlier but now they don't like the wet vent situation. :mad: So no sharing the vent. I think I almost understand the final plan and I'll post back when I get it figured out. Or maybe Growler will chime in with the local skinny on this.

I'm not sure if anyone cares as it seems like this is very much a local issue and solution, but if you want an air gap and you don't want it on your countertop it appears this is the only option (and it might not be code approved in your area). But this is one way to do it.

http://homepage.mac.com/riverwader/....ards/JohnT.jpg

I put a highlight circle around the actual Johnson Tee fitting.

Have fun
Paul

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Originally Posted by PDieter

Thanks Tom,

My poke at you and growler was in good nature, it comes from my search on the subject here and a couple very helpful and entertaining threads I found.

Your drawing doesn't have a kitchen sink on it so although it illustrates the johnson tee it doesn't really illustrate the application. I did cross post this question elsewhere and it is really becoming obvious that this is almost an exclusively Puget Sound area question. I don't think the fitting is utilized or accepted anywhere else, and I wonder if it can even be purchased elsewhere. Apparently it was invented by a Seattle inspector. I'm told my illustration was the way it was done earlier but now they don't like the wet vent situation. :mad: So no sharing the vent. I think I almost understand the final plan and I'll post back when I get it figured out. Or maybe Growler will chime in with the local skinny on this.

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I'll reserve judgement on the craftsmanship of the installer, but Dieter's photo with the Partition Cross is *almost* a correct example.

The 90 on the right inlet of the partition cross is a definite no-no.

A correct installation, while also dubious in craftsmanship, follows below.

Do I need to rip that out and redo it then?

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Originally Posted by PDieter

Do I need to rip that out and redo it then?

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Stickler that I am for code compliance, I sure would.:D

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Tom,
I'm curious if you still have your old tools? I've my Grandfather from the late 1800 ,early 1900. We lost the iron for the gas blow torch, man there hard to locate.

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I still have my fathers tools from his old shop up in Beloit Wisconsin 52 years ago when we moved to Florida. Thread cutting stocks and dyes, lead working tools, both for cast iron and for working with lead fittings. I even have a old white gas furnace and lead pot for melting lead. I plan on donating them to the local trade schools plumbing department. Nice chatting! Tom

My 15 y/o Johnson T Vent in Seattle just froze solid inside 2x6 walls. I sure hope nothing cracked because it can't be fixed behind finished walls, cabinets, and granite counter tops.

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because it can't be fixed behind finished walls, cabinets, and granite counter tops.

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Sure it can if it's on a outside wall.
Do what I did when I replaced my sink drainage. Instead of going in from the cabinet side I took out a portion of the outside wall.
That's out of the question in sub-zero weather but if your pipes burst that's the way I'd go when it warmed up. I'm watching the news tonight about the big snow storm and the lowered temperatures.
Hate ta rub it in guys but a few days ago we aired out the house with the windows open and there are days when the AC kicks on. I haven't seen snow in over 50 years and hope I never have to again. Regards and stay warm up there. Tom

A couple questions please.
Stated above: "The 90 on the right inlet of the partition cross is a definite no-no."
... whats wrong about it and maybe there could be a post of the corrected version.
The other question: why can't the venting for the Johnson T go straight up and exit the roof or tie back in w/ vent line?
Thanks