I have 99 Honda Civic with 120,000 mi, no serious trouble. Yesterday I wore high heels, unaccustomed to getting in car with higher heels I think I may have loosened wire/wires below fuse box. I drove 4 places, car started fine, 5th place wouldn't start. Turns over just fine. I checked all my fuses, yes I have full tank gas and oil, I even relocked the gas cap. At my wits end I stuck my hand in the wire area under drivers side fuse box, attempting to tighten any connections. While doing so, I think? I may have unplugged a connection. It's a collection of about 10 wires wound and taped together with a white female type plug at the end. The white connector is about 1 1/2 " long. I used a flashlight and mirror and cannot find anywhere that fits. I can't imagine 10 wires come from engine to connect to nothing. Everything works, power windows, radio, lights, and even horn. Car turns over nice and strong but won't start? Also in the past when gas tank was lower it cranked a few more seconds than when its full; if that matters. I have no money, no men and am trapped in a parking lot. My 11 year old and I had to walk 5 miles to get home {in those ^%^^% high heels}
Please let me know if I'm even on the right track here?:confused:

My guess is that you unplugged the ignition switch harness that plugs into the under-dash fuse box. Otherwise, it may be the connection going to the main relay. However, on 1999 Civics, the main relay is usually located to the right of the glovebox. Get a flashlight and carefully scope this out. Afterwards, take a test light or multimeter and test all under-dash and under-hood fuses. Here's how to properly test all fuses:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

After reattaching all wires and checking all fuses, run through the tests outlined in Sections A and B below, if necessary:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post219438

At least perform the Check Engine Light tests, which are so important:

Check Engine Light (CEL) Tests. If the CEL does not go out, most Civics will not spark and the fuel pump will not run. Therefore, all efforts should first be directed to correcting the problem(s) that prevent you from being able to answer "Yes" to the three basic diagnostic questions below:

a. Turning the ignition switch to ON (or position II), not START, does the CEL come on and then go off after 2 seconds? If not, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) 15 amp fuse, in the under-dash fuse/relay box; ECM (perform the K-Test; Main Relay; or the Ignition Switch. Perform tests in that order.

b. When the CEL goes out, do you hear and/or feel the Main Relay "click"? If not, repair or replace the Main Relay.

c. During the 2 second interval that the CEL is on, do you hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run? If not, check that the fuel pump works by jumping terminals 5 and 7 on the main relay connector and then turning the ignition switch to ON.

Thank you so much for the info and I apologize for not reading the FAQ first. Its now been a week {so not to mention car repair charges I have rental car charges} my dad helped me tow to shop and I have no idea what they are doing. They said no way is it the wires {all but called me a stupid woman} after 5 days they said they replaced the ignition coil/igniter {I don't know, I was crying, I am a stupid woman} and no start. Said I need a new distributor and a ton of money. I was wondering two things; should I even try replacing the cap and crossing my fingers and saving a ton of money? {their closed today} Or considering the very different starting procedure when my car has more than 1/2 tank gas vs less than 1/2 could it possibly be fuel filter? {see I did read FAQ, and no I wouldn't even attempt that one} I'm sorry to be so convoluted and I sincerely appreciate more than you can imagine your help and patience.

What are the answers to the 3 basic diagnostic questions?


Assuming the answers to the 3 basic diagnostic questions are okay, and since replacing the coil and ignitor did not solve the problem, the suggestion to replace the distributor housing is likely correct. Honda distributors are problematic. The "sealed for life" bearing inside only lasts so long. When it starts to go, it often damages internal distributor sensors (CKP, TDC, and CYL) and the car will no longer start. Make sure they only use a genuine Honda distributor housing. We have had many problems on this site with aftermarket distributors not working, even though they were brand new. They will be able to install the new coil and ignitor you just bought in the new housing.

[QUOTE=txgreasemonkey]What are the answers to the 3 basic diagnostic questions? <<


Sorry, yes they were OK.


[QUOTE=txgreasemonkey] Make sure they only use a genuine Honda distributor housing. We have had many problems on this site with aftermarket distributors<<

One last thing, 'distributor housing', is this the whole distributor or just the cap? If the whole distributor, how about a Honda rebuilt? Do those exist? Sorry I guess its two; I'm in such a financial situation I can't even count. :confused:

Thank you again

It's the whole distributor, minus the distributor cap, rotor, coil, and ignitor. They go for around $150 new from Honda. Ask them for a discount and they'll likely give you 10% off. Otherwise, shop online at College Hills Honda, in Ohio, or call them on their 888 number:

College Hills Honda Accessory Catalog: Search

If money is really tight, go with whatever works.

Holy cow, I finally got my car back today. I don't even want to admit how bad I got ripped off. What concerns me NOW, is that gee whiz I have a check engine light on that was never on before, ever. I'm ready to drive off a cliff. Car seems to behave relatively normal though sluggish? Any ideas?

The CEL may not have been on during their maintenance, some items that make the light come on require two drive cycles to make the light come on. Go to Autozone and get the code pulled for free and let us know and we can help figure out what is wrong.

I have heard on many forums for many years that the dealer distributor sub assembly was a fair price, it original equipment and that is what you want. You will need a friend to swap the new parts over though, its not hard and you have to pay close attention to aligning the drive gear up when reinserting the distributor to the engine, leave the cap and wires off until last so they can turn the rotor a little to align the gear to the cam slot, it is possible to put it in backwards but if you just take a minute to inspect the gear and the slot, you can see that it is offset just a little.

Have your friend come on here to get some details. Can you go to a different dealer for these parts and it is possible that they will want the old distributor back as a rebuildable core. Just carry it in with you already disassembled ready to match it up to the new one so you are sure it the correct configuration, call ahead and make sure they have it in stock first.

The problem may be that the ECM (computer) needs to be reset. Either disconnect the negative battery cable, or remove the 7.5 Amp BACKUP fuse in the under-hood fuse box, for 10 seconds. The Check Engine Light will now go out. If it stays off, there's no problem--it was related to the problem they fixed. If it comes on again, take it to AutoZone and have them read the code for free.

Was the original problem solved by replacing the distributor housing?

YEs, the car starts now after they replaced the distributor. The mechanic said they gave him the wrong one 3 times but he took the parts {like the cap, and something else} off my old one and basically Frankensteined it together. Also he didn't get a honda distributor, he got a generic rebuilt one.

So I went to AutoZone last night and the fella said that for some reason my car won't connect with his machine. He tried two different machines? And advised me to go to some big repair shop because they have deluxe machines.
The car sort of feels like before but a little sluggish straight away and super slow getting up any hills?

This morning on my way to work that CEL went off?
This unfortunately does not give me warm fuzzies because why did it go off?
I think I'm losing my mind with this car.

The mechanic may have failed to set the timing to specs, when he changed the distributor. You may want to check with him about that. Another possibility is that the car just needs new spark plugs--only use the exact NGK plugs that came in the car.

The CEL can go off if the computer sees that the problem no longer exists, but it may come back on later for the same, intermittent problem. It is also possible that you have a blown fuse not allowing the scanner to communicate. I wonder how your timing was set after the distributor change, its just sluggish, its not spitting and sputtering, misfiring?

I don't even want to speak to the mechanic. I cannot even muster enough love in my heart to listen to the voice mail that he left me Monday, AND the guy owes me $50.00. At this point I'll find someboby else. The fella at Autozone referred me to a place I guess I'll try or something. I highly doubt he did the timing right, when I got in my car the registration was on the passenger seat along with instructions downloaded from the internet on the repair.
What is NGK? Ashamededly I've never had a tune up :( in 3 years and 30000 miles) I did put some gas performance stuff in Monday and brake fluid {it looked low when I was inspecting distributor connections} I read your brake fluid FAQ and right after a tune up I'll go there.

Duane, yes it just seems a little bit slower than usual, like harder to accelerate? For example before was 0-60 in appx 8 seconds now appx 12-14 but once I get going its fine. EXCEPT going up a hill, its not even very big hill but it feels like I have the emergency brake on and that was never the case before.
No misfire, spitting or sputtering.
Perhaps a "cleaner" distributor is accentuating the very old never changed spark plugs and wires?

Take a look at the distributor for me, look at the three bolts that hold it to the engine, just one will be fine to look at, it these three bolts were loosened up a little bit, this would allow the distributor to rotate a little bit clockwise or counterclockwise, let me know if the bolt appears to be in the middle area of this slot OR if it appears to be all the way to one side of the slot. NGK is the brand of the spark plugs. Being out of time is a classic example of low power, if the timing is retarted, you would have no other symptoms possibly, maybe a little hard to start cold OR a little hard to start warm.

So I will take a look a bit later maybe after a drink. The damn car stalled this morning and wouldn't restart. My boss is a jerk and said she's had enough of my car troubles {one hour tuesday} and I better get there. I opened hood and pushed in all the spark plug wires on distributor and everything I could see I tightened. I made a couple promises to God and it started. I drove to the hellhole I call work with one foot on brake and one on gas keeping rpms up. After work it started barely, turned the A/c on to help keep at higher rpm because a few times had to put into neutral with high rpms slamming into drive has got to be a little rough on transmission. I'm not going back to the same place, I don't have the know how or tools to do it myself. How do I find a reputable place that will fix this at a resonable amount and I can try and reestablish the peace of mind that my children are safe?

Take it to Honda or a repair shop that specializes in Hondas.

Well 12 days have passed and I've traveled to the original mechanic who states the car is fine. Picked a large shop out of the phone book {that specializes in Hondas} that says the car is fine. And yesterday went to Honda {where I bought the car} and told them to at least replace the ignition switch that was recalled. They said no. For 45.00 they will check and see if it needs replacing. I honestly don't know what to do. If I pay for one more person to tell me its fine or one more rental car I'm going to snap. The distributor has been replaced, the plugs and wires, the oil changed and all the fuses rechecked. I assume the shop checked my vacumns etc and fuel lines like he said he was going to, though when he returned the car all that was said was he couldn't recreate the stall or no/hard start. {funny it stalled 1 block from his shop for me} I found a place that sells ignition switch {electrical only} for about 30. Or the whole thing for 100.00 and apparently its easy to replace. {I bring this up because I can make the car stall by playing with key in} I still cannot find the main relay and no one, not one single person listened to me regarding that possibly being the cause, one fella even laughed at me.

Main relay should be located to the right of the glove box, along the wall of the right kick panel.

If the ignition switch (elec only) does not fix it then you are going to need to buy a few inexpensive test items, SEARS, hand held remote start switch hooked directly to starter, DISCOUNT PARTS HOUSE, adjustable spark tester to test for spark when car won't start. Does your fuel filter (do you have metal fuel filter) have a 12mm bolt on top OR do you see a 12mm bolt on the fuel rail to hook up a pressure tester. You do not need a pressure tester, just crack this bolt loose to watch for fuel squirting out while cranking during a no start. Your ignition key will need to be on while using the remote starter switch under the hood and watching for fuel and spark during your no start, let us know what you find. This will enable you to be a one man show.