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-   -   Toyta Camry 1992 2.2 5fe-se (NOVA)spanish translation or NO GO. (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=140080)

  • Oct 12, 2007, 07:32 PM
    jah1992
    Toyta Camry 1992 2.2 5fe-se (NOVA)spanish translation or NO GO.
    Help! I was driving and hit a curb hard enough to gouge my tire, but not pop it. I got out to inspect the damage and then my car shut off. I tried to start it but to no avail. It sounds like it is engaging all the starting systems when trying to start. A year ago I replaced my ignition coil, battery and checked my alternater. I have only 106k miles on my baby and have use the toyotanation.com to get the manual as I am traveling right now I have been loaned a ohms meter and test light along with tools.

    Anyhow, I have found that my AM2 fuse blows when the ignition is set to the on position and continues to draw power when in the off position. I read that should not have power when key is in the off position. I talked to a friend who works for Landcruiser and he said that without him being there to check in person that it sounds like a hard ground.

    So far, I have checked:

    replaced spark plugs, check wires to plugs, check ignition coil=good, starter=good, the alternator is turning=good, looked and prodded wires to ignition system and checked connections to igniter=good, distributor=good

    I tried to get the codes from jumping T1 and E1 but only got a check engine light in the on position no blinking at all.

    I need some help! Please, soon as I am living on the floor of a friends house right now.

    Thank you Jah
  • Oct 12, 2007, 07:43 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    Could you have tripped an inertia switch, which cuts off fuel to the injectors?

    Send a Private Message to kitch428, who's our Toyota expert.
  • Oct 12, 2007, 07:55 PM
    CaptainRich
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by jah1992
    Help! I was driving and hit a curb hard enough to gouge my tire, but not pop it. I got out to inspect the damage and then my car shut off. I tried to start it but to no avail. It sounds like it is engaging all the starting systems when trying to start. A year ago i replaced my ignition coil, battery and checked my alternater. I have only 106k miles on my baby and have use the toyotanation.com to get the manual as i am traveling right now i have been loaned a ohms meter and test light along with tools.

    Anyhow, i have found that my AM2 fuse blows when the ignition is set to the on position and continues to draw power when in the off position. I read that should not have power when key is in the off position. I talked to a friend who works for Landcruiser and he said that without him being there to check in person that it sounds like a hard ground.

    So far, i have checked:

    replaced spark plugs, check wires to plugs, check ignition coil=good, starter=good, the alternator is turning=good,, looked and prodded wires to ignition system and checked connections to igniter=good, distributor=good

    I tried to get the codes from jumping T1 and E1 but only got a check engine light in the on position no blinking at all.

    I need some help! Please, soon as I am living on the floor of a friends house right now.

    Thank you Jah

    The AM2 fuse feeds power to the coil and the Ignition igniter, but only with the key ON. With the key in the OFF position there should be no load for that fuse.

    It's possible the impact with the curb was enough to move the engine harness and cause a short to ground.

    Also to check codes you'll need to jump TE1 to E1. But first you should find the source of the fuse blowing.
  • Oct 13, 2007, 08:15 AM
    kitch428
    If you disconnect the distributor, mainly the smaller connector, and the AM2 does not blow, then the problem lies within the dist.
    I have found in the past the condenser is the culprit. You can see how it's melted. Replace that and all should be well.
  • Oct 14, 2007, 07:44 PM
    jah1992
    Thanks, for the quick feedback! I have since been probing the distributor and was having fun blowing fuses to check were the short was and found that unhooking a brown wire to the inition coil on the positive side with all other wires attached the am2 fuse does not blow. Of, course I really need to leave soon so I have opted to go to a shop that a friend who is a friend of my friend said was a specialist in electrical problems. So, I hope what I say to the mechanic is helpful and expedent in solving my current worries. Thanks again for the help, and I will post back with my hopefully not to expensive solution. Jah
  • Oct 15, 2007, 03:26 AM
    CaptainRich
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by jah1992
    Thanks, for the quick feedback! I have since been probing the distributor and was having fun blowing fuses to check were the short was and found that unhooking a brown wire to the inition coil on the positive side with all other wires attached the am2 fuse does not blow. Of, course i really need to leave soon so i have opted to go to a shop that a friend who is a friend of my friend said was a specialist in electrical problems. So, i hope what i say to the mechanic is helpful and expedent in solving my current worries. thanks again for the help, and i will post back with my hopefully not to expensive solution. Jah

    The positive side of the Ignition coil should have Wht/Red wire, though over time may have become brownish. Sounds like a shorted coil... not particularly expensive: the OEM ignition coil is less than $100.00.
  • Oct 17, 2007, 09:53 AM
    jah1992
    Ok, guys here is an update on my car. It was the condenser, and ignition coil. Total labor and parts = $215.10 so, to get out of my friends place I had to pay some cash but not a problem in the long run. Thanks again for the help. Jah
  • Oct 17, 2007, 09:57 AM
    CaptainRich
    I'm glad they replaced the condenser with the coil. This critical item is often overlooked. And not a bad price for parts and labor.

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