I recently purchased this hatch with a 97 h22 a4 swap and it ran fine. Now just a few days ago I was driving down the road and the rpms dropped and the car shut off. I then waited a few min and I started it back up and it ran OK. I then drove it back to my house no problem. Well yesterday I drove it to work with no problem and when I left work and tried to start my car it would not start. It starts like it would normally but it won't crank over to keep the car running. So my dad got my neighbor which is a mechanic and he said it might be the ignition module in the distributer. So we went and replaced it, then my battery somehow was dead and the car wouldn't crank at all. So I took the battery home, and realized the battery had bearly any water in it, so I filled it and charged it up. Well this mourning I took it back to my car, put it in and I cranked my car and it ran fine. Well I went to work and then went out to my car to start it and it did the same thing of not starting. It would crack over, but wouldn't start. I am thinking the battery is drained somehow and I need a new battery because it made it run after I put it back in. I also called HONDA and they said it might be the ignitor switch, but does anyone have any ideas!!

When a battery is really low on water, it may not be any good, despite adding water and placing it on a charger. I would first try installing a new battery.

Ignition Control Module (ICM) and ignitor switch are the same thing. You might also want to get the coil tested, which AutoZone will do for free. Normally, it's a good idea to replace the coil when the ICM is replaced.

I just got back from buying a new battery and that did not help. The car will still crank over but it won't run. Do you think I will need to buy a new distributer or coil in it!

. Now that we know the battery is good, test all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter. Here's how:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

. Next, perform the tests, outlined in Sections A and B, below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...das-46563.html

These tests will allow you to identify what the problem is.

Are you sure that its going to be a fuse and anything with the distributer because I read about where someone else had a problem similar to mine and they replaced the whole distributer and it fixed the problem but seem how that I already replaced the ignitor switch and it didn't fix the problem your thinking that its not the distributer. Well I called Honda today and they said it might me the ignition switch, because there was a recall on them for my year which is a 96 civic

No, I'm not sure it's going to be a fuse. When you have electrical-related problems, you need to establish a "known-good baseline." Therefore, you start by ensuring the battery and fuses are good. After that, you systematically perform important tests to increase that baseline. That's the approach I take with inquiries, where we start from scratch. If you know there's a recall on the ignition switch, then I'd get it installed and see if it solves the problem. However, I've seen very few Honda ignition switches be responsible for the car not starting--it's just not common, even for 15 to 20 year old Hondas.

Well I just got home from checking on my car at work and I tried to start it and it started up then I tried driving it home which is about a mile away and the lights to the rpm went dim and the rpm dropped then the car shut off so I put it in neutral and coasted it the grocery store. Tried to start it again and it didn't. The problem lies within the ignition switch because its doing everything the Honda guy told me it would do if it went bad, there's a wire in it somewhere its bad and when it gets hot the engine shuts off, but when the engine is cold the car will start anad it will run for a short period, I am taking it to honda tomorrow and having them fix it

Let me know if it solves the problem.

OK I will for future reference thanks for the help by the way

I took my car to honda and all it was, is a freaking relay went bad and it was 60 bucks for the part 50 bucks for labor and 100 for diognostic test so 200 bucks to be fixed

Was it the PGM-FI Main Relay?