I am an autobody tech, and with that goes a lot of mechanical skills, but this one has me stumped. This one has the 4 cyl vtech engine,auto trans, we drove it to the ball fields,running great, came back to leave and it would only crank,no start. So, all the usuall,ign module, fuel pump, needed new anyway. Spray starting fluid in air breather, and it runs a little, every time,but not without it. I have replaced the crank sensor, timing belt,. open fuel line at rail,lots of fuel, pressure. Compression 140 to 160,all, Down to distributor,cyp sensor, but it fires with fluid? Ecm maybe? Coil, but it does fire with fluid! I don't want to go anyfarther without a little knowledge fom somebody better, so here I am!

. Perform tests outlined in Sections A and B below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...das-46563.html

. Be sure to check all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter.
. Check for codes.
. Be sure to check ECM by running the K-Test.
. Check the coil, which AutoZone will do for free.
. Ensure spark plugs (NGK only), distributor cap, rotor, and spark plug wires are in good shape.

There's also the possibility that the distributor is bad; i.e. CKP, CYL, and TDC sensors may be bad. They are not serviceable. Best to install a new Honda distributor housing and reuse your ICM and coil.

you, first thing was fuses and relays, sorry I didn't say that, but I've been through everything,small to big. I have x-ray diagnostics, but no code! Nothing, that's why I was wondering about the ecm. It won't read on my smaller one, it does on the big one, but no codes found. If it was the coil, then it wouldn't fire up with starting fluid though right? That pretty much cuts out anything spark related, That's why I figured crank sensor, cause I have fuel to the rail, but none through the injectors, I'm guessing. It does control injector timing. I'm very thankful for your quick response!

Check quality of spark at each plug. It may be a strong enough spark with starting fluid but not otherwise.

Does the Check Engine Light come on and then go off after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to Position II? During this time, do you hear the fuel pump run and hear the main relay click? That is, answer the 3 basic diagnostic questions.

Yes, it does come on,and go off,fuel pump runs,and main relay clicks. I have good fuel pressure at the rail,and this morning I tried new plugs,ngk. I do think its got to be down to the dist, or the ecm, which one would you try first? The ecm is a r&r , take it in, send it to be rebuilt, and like you said, the dist is entire, replace it all, so which chance would you take? Its better when its my money to try huh! Lol and I definitely will! Post when I do finally figure it out!

Perform the K-Test now. It's simple and will give you a good idea if the ECM is bad or not.

Since the CEL comes on and goes off properly, my bet is that the distributor is bad. However, the K-Test is so simple and powerful, it should be performed first.

Quick instructions on k-test?

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multi-meter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. You may want to perform the test at different times, since some ECM failures are intermittent.