I have a 1989 Honda Civic that won't start, it just clicks when you turn it on. The lights go on, and everything else seems to work, but it won't start. I happened to be on the phone with my pastor, as I was supposed to be taking him something at the time, and he said it was the cylinoid, where the key goes in. I took the plastic off the steering column and saw where the ignition is and where the key goes in and all that :p and if it is that, I see no reason I couldn't change it... Does this sound like something that would be? It has done this before several time. On those occasions I thought it was the battery, since someone had taken the battery out and so I got out and beat on the battery, but this in effect meant that I took the key out and put it back in and started it. I just learned my mom has had it happen and she said that she would have to take the key out and put it back in to make it work. Well it isn't working now, not by taking the key out, putting it in, wiggling it around, no trick I try is getting it to start for anything. The battery seems to work, the car was broke into recently so the radio is gone :mad: , but the lights come on, so all I can say is that it clicks. :eek: I hope that this is detailed enough to help you. :rolleyes: Thanks! :D

I have a 1991 honda accord and it want start. It not getting gas to the intake. Where is the computer located to reset it.

The key clicks, the gas goes, everything 'works', but the ignitions. I get in, stick the key in, the lights go on, and the gas will eventually flood if I don't be careful, I turn the key and it goes "click click click click click"... :confused: It used to be if I take the key out and put it back in then it would work, but now it doesn't work. The lights all go on and everything like that, you can tell the gas is going, cause it will start smelling and over flood and such, but it isn't 'turning over'. But it isn't the starter. It is like it is in the steering column it'self. But when I took that apart, I couldn't get the ignition out of the column to look at it to see if it was broken. :confused:

. If the starter motor does not crank the engine over, but "clicks" instead, place the battery on a charger and follow the directions in the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post235560


. If the "click" is the main relay, which is located just above the under-dash fuse box, then you need to perform the tests outlined in Sections A and B below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post219438

Since you need to establish a "known-good baseline," it's a good idea to begin by ensuring the battery is fully charged and all fuses are good. With that baseline knowledge, you move out from there and perform the other tests.

The link below explains how to properly check all under-dash and under-hood fuses:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

Thanks, I will check all the fuses. But from what I have found out so far, it can only be the ignition cylinder or something to do with the ignition, as the electricial isn't a problem and the gas isn't a problem and the battery isn't a problem. I am disabled, so I am on a fixed income and am desperated trying to do this myself rather then take it in to someone to have them charge me to do it. However I do know that I have my limits and have to hand it over to someone who knows more then me before I do something that will cost me more to fix then if I had just handed it over in the first place. My problem is that I guess what I am trying to do is more or less trying to get a confermation that what I was told might be the probem by one person is what someone else thinks it is, someone who isn't just a pastor but has some knowledge in these things, so that before I start replacing ignition key clyinders and things I have something to go on. :confused:

Since this has been an ongoing problem with the key, when we take it out, put it in, take it out, I honestly do not think it has anything to do with fuses as the key has always been a deciding factor. We did think it was a battery thing, as stated before, but I think that was a red herring. :(

Thanks for your time. :o

It sounds like you think the ignition switch needs replacing, which is not too difficult or expensive to do. There are links online that will show you how. Here's a brief explanation of how to do it:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post224652

Here's what it looks like and costs:

While we find your parts, please enter your ZIP Code at PartsAmerica.com

I THINK that is what it is, but was hoping that if I described it to you, you might afirm say no, one way or the other... you know, if it doesn't sound that way when you do that, then you would know it, I wouldn't... or so I hoped. :o Do you have any of these links? ;)

Now that I have a clearer understanding of your situation, it could definitely be just a bad ignition switch. Your description of have to jiggle the key is a classic sign of wear. Here's a good link on how to replace the ignition switch:

How to replace the ignition switch

Remember to disconnect the negative battery cable first.

:p Thank you so much! I went out and took apart the ignition switch and found that the bottom was not pitted, as in the web site, but that the top plate, the bumps were not bumped, but had been 'smoothed' down a bit. Would that be causing my problem? :confused: I couldn't tell from the photo on the site, but I could tell that there was wear on the 'moveable' part of my ignition switch. And a lot of brown 'greasy' type stuff all on the inside of it. :confused:

Absolutely--not making contact. Your switch has done well to last all these years and now it's due for replacement. Good job! To save money, you might check prices with a local salvage yard--just check the switch and harness over carefully first. Make sure it's identical.

Thank you! :D You are a Blessing! Will let you know how it goes. I called and ordered the part, the place within walking distance doesn't have it, but can get it... :) Glad I found this site! Not sure if the part was ever replaced before as I have only owned the car for 3 years, but it seems to be the orginial part, so you are right about it having lasted a good long time and it had been acting up for awhile. I just wish it had lasted a few more days, as I have an important doctor's appointment in the AM and no way (no one) to get there. :( Well, least I called them on Friday when the car first stopped running and warned them about the problem. Maybe they will fit me in on Tuesday...

Take care! And once more, thanks so much for your help! :p

Since you're disabled and living on a fixed income, preventive maintenance is a must. Be sure to read some of the links I've written to help you avoid unexpected expenses on your car; e.g. :

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post219991

God bless. Let me know if the new switch solves the problem.

Unfortunately, it didn't work. By the time they got the switch, and I was able to walk to get it, then recovered from getting it, I only just got it installed... It wouldn't fit at first, then I found out it was because the switch was not set at 0 to begin with, so I had to put the key into the ignition and set it to 2 to get the ignition switch to even fit into the car. By the time I got everything hooked up and the power back on, I tried to turn the car over and nothing. The car has power, in that the lights go on and everything, but when I turn the ignition on, there isn't even a clicking anymore. :( :confused:

Could the switch be a dud? I ask that because it wouldn't fit when I tried to put it in and I had to set make it fit by keeping the keys in the ignition at 2 to make it fit before I could set it to 0 and take the keys out. At first I thought they gave me the wrong switch because it wouldn't fit without a key in the ignition, so that was a red flag. But then when I finally got it to fit by using the keys... I figured it was okay. But then the car doesn't work now. However, it may not have been the switch and I just messed it up more and spent my savings on the wrong thing. :(

I was trying desperately to save money and not get taken by taking it in, as I don't know a single person/mechanic around here that I can trust, or afford. And with a piece that looked simple to install and was going to cost so much ($110) out of my savings as it was, I knew that I couldn't afford to take it in and add labor on top. But it looks like I might have added more expenses on top of it. I was only praying God would send me to a site that would help (don't get me wrong, not saying you didn't, you did and are and have been) that I could do it myself. But I am smart enough to know that even some things are out of my hands. I have recently had spinal fusion surgery and I have nerve damage in my leg and I know I can't change an engine. However, I can do semi simple things that some might charge me an arm and a leg that I normally couldn't otherwise afford. I try to do the maintence on the car as I can afford it, but trust me when I say that the government does NOT give you diddly when it comes to disability. If it wasn't for the help of my mother (who is 70) I wouldn't have had the car to begin with, and it was so that I could get to all the doctor's appointments. Unfortunately, I missed one today, and seems will miss tomorrow's as well... :( Sorry... didn't mean to go on... :p

As I was saying, I really don't know what could be wrong now... either the switch is bad, and an indication would be the fact it didn't fit into the car the first time I put it in, or the switch wasn't the problem in the first place... or I messed it up somehow... Is there anything you can suggest? Or am I stuck trying to find a mechanic?

I'm so sorry it didn't work right away for you.

Did you reconnect the negative battery cable?
Is your car a 1989 DX, LX, plain Civic, or SI?

Yes. :( Like I said, all the lights and everything are on. Everything is like before. Just now there is no "click click click". Just dead silence when I turn the key.

1989 Honda Civic 4 door... just a plain 4 door normal nothing special, no bells or whistles or nothing... All connections are as before. :rolleyes:

As I asked before, would it be the part? When I put it on, it was NOT in the 0 position, but in the II posistion. Could this indicate that the part is bad? Because I had to have the key in to make it fit when I didn't have to have a key in it before to take the key switch off it. :eek:

I have one other question that came to mind... My brother mentioned before he died that I might need to have a belt.. a timing belt.. or something like that, replaced before 6,000 miles. Would that cause this type of problem? And if so, how do I check to see if the belt is broken? I know you didn't answer the other question yet, so thought I would tack this on the end of that, because I have been up and down all night worrying about this. :( I don't know how I am going to get to the doctor tomorrow as it is and I swore I wouldn't miss it two days in a row... so have to figure the bus out... but still if I can figure out what is wrong, at least if I end up having to call a mechanic, I will know what needs fixed and they won't be able to tack on a bunch of things at the end that I don't need. :D

It sounds like you have the new ignition switch installed properly. It's just hard to tell from afar. Even though the main relay doesn't click, will the starter motor crank? If not, the switch/harness is not installed properly. If the starter motor cranks, then something else is likely the real source of the problem of why the main relay doesn't "click." The best I can do, then, is suggest you perform the tests outlined in Sections A and B below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...das-46563.html

The fact that the relay doesn't click could indicate a fuse is blown. Here's how to properly test all under-dash and under-hood fuses:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

Also, the relay may not work if the Engine Control Module (computer) is bad. Perform the K-Test to check the computer.

Civics will not start if the Check Engine Light (CEL) stays on, when you turn the ignition switch to Position II. The CEL should go off after 2 seconds, the fuel pump in the gas tank should run, and the main relay should click.

Whether the timing belt is bad or not is another issue. Open the oil filler cap and, while someone else cranks the engine, look inside and see if the camshaft rotates. If it does, the timing belt is not broken. The timing belt is not related to the current electrical problem.

The auto parts store charged you way too much for the new ignition switch. Advance Auto Parts would have only charged $67. Try and get the store you bought it from to match AAP's price and refund the difference. Most part stores will match the competition's price.

Let me know the brand and part no. of the new ignition switch--I'll check it out and see if it's the right one or not for your car.

If need be, reinstall your old ignition switch and see if it makes a difference.

Here's another link on how to install ignition switches:

http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignitionswitch.html

You should put the key in the ignition and turn it to Position 0, before removing the switch, as indicated below:

Honda Civic Ignition Switch Replacement

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Remove dashboard lower cover and knee bolster.
3. Disconnect 5-P connector from under-dash fuse box and 7-P connector from main wire harness.
4. Remove steering column covers.
5. Insert key and turn it to "0".
6. Remove two screws from switch and replace.

I will try all those things and pray that something works. :o

What made me ask if it was the ignition switch that I bought was because the car was set to 0 when I took the key out. I could not get the ignition switch, the new one, on the back of the ignition cylinder until I put the key in and put it to II because the inside of the ignition switch was not set at 0. THAT is what bothers me. The fact that I could not just slip it on from the factory at the 0 setting, but had to "jimmy" my keys to put the "new" switch on. :( Once I had it on and turned the factory setting from whatever it was to 0, then I could get it to slip onto the back of my ignition cylinder. THAT is why I think the ignition switch is a dud.

I am going to toss this question out there separately to see if anyone might know the answer since you happen to be offline. ;) I have a doctor's appointment and have to take the bus as they postponed it from yesterday and it is very important... but when I get back if I know the answer to this, then I can either demand my money back on the ignition switch or..

Thank you, I was able to get a refund of $50 for the switch! :D I called Napa just now and they quoted me $59 so I called the parts place and told them, so they promised after my doctor's appointment to refund it. Thanks! :D

Glad they are giving you a refund!

You need to ensure the new ignition switch is the right one. Does it look identical to the old one in all regards. I have to defer to your judgment whether it's the wrong one or not. That's why I wanted to know if your Civic is a plain Civic, DX, LX, EX, or SI. In electronics, close is not good enough.

By reinstalling the old switch, and seeing that it installs properly, you should be able to pass judgment on the new switch.