Okay, here's an idiotic question... and I probably know what the answer is going to be...

I just bought a new refrigerator on Saturday (our old one was from the 50's) from Sears Scratch and Dent... it's got the water dispenser and ice maker and everything. So, anyhow, I bought the ice maker installation kit with the "self-tapping" type valve. I installed it, and it makes ice and runs water for you, but the water flow is ridiculously slow... like 2 min/liter. The house has great water pressure (even on the 3rd floor), but the water from the fridge is not doing the trick. The line to the fridge is 25' of 1/4" copper line. Is the length/gauge of the line the issue?

Definitely not a line size or length issue.

I'd look to be sure the saddle valve is fully open - and double triple check that you did not kink the line between it and the fridge somewhere.

If both of those are fine, shut down the valve, disconnect the line to your fridge, then open the line to confirm that the pressure coming from the line is good.

If it's not good (and there's no kinks in the line) then a bad saddle valve is the only answer.

If the pressure is good, you're looking at a problem inside the icemaker.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by knightpitt

The line to the fridge is 25' of 1/4" copper line. Is the length/gauge of the line the issue?

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No, If I were there I would check three things.
(1) Check the self piecing saddle clamp valve to see that the pin has the hole fully pierced and that you opened the valve completely.
(2) The copper line should not have any kinks between the valve and the refrigerator.
(3) And last I would check the inlet on the refrigerator to see if I disturbed any crud or mineral build-up in the supply line wall that may be blocking the flow when I installed the self piercing valve.
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If you still haven't found the problem after you check these then click on back and we'll take them one at a time. Regards, Tom