Talking with a builder this weekend they mentioned rebar is not a standard feature in the concrete for the drive way or the covered patio in the back. It's about $1.00 per sq ft to have it installed. What are the advantages to adding rebar into the concrete for the driveway? Do I need it?

You do not need to put rebar in the concrete , you can use wiremesh if you have to . What I have done for several years is to use what is called ( FIBERMESH CONCRETE) . Check city code about right at the street or if you live out side on highway ,check with your state on their codes, if county check with your county on theirs, and they may require you to get permits. If I!ve helped rate my ans. Below

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Originally Posted by scp_ok

Talking with a builder this weekend they mentioned rebar is not a standard feature in the concrete for the drive way or the covered patio in the back. It's about $1.00 per sq ft to have it installed. What are the advantages to adding rebar into the concrete for the driveway? Do I need it?

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Flying Blue Eagle is spot on. Additionally, when pouring a garage slab, make sure there is rebar dowelling extending out to the garage apron connection to the driveway paving. This keeps the driveway from settling below the slab at that interface. Nm

Do I need at least something in the drive way if they are not going to put in rebar. The standard is just concrete so wiremesh is not put in either.

For the patio I'm thinking of putting in hot tub at some point so would I need rebar to support its weight.

Rebar just makes is stronger, right. Perhaps also prevent or reduce it cracking over time?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by scp_ok

Do I need at least something in the drive way if they are not going to put in rebar. The standard is just concrete so wiremesh is not put in either.

For the patio I'm thinking of putting in hot tub at some point so would I need rebar to support its weight.

Rebar just makes is stronger, right. Perhaps also prevent or reduce it cracking over time?

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Do not waste time about driveway rebar, only the tapered 3 ft. apron in front of the garage needs rebar dowels that keeps the thin section from crumbling. A driveway without any internal wire mesh will crack from soil compression under the drive due to heavy car and truck weight. A compacted 3/4" crushed rock base needs to be put down before laying a 10/10 mesh screen to keep the thin driveway covering from cracking and the edges from crumbling. If you are really trying to save bucks, just go with an oiled chip compacted driveway. Also make sure there are expansion joints in a long driveway pour unless the new surface is the same continuous none shrink material used on highways. Nm

Quote:

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Originally Posted by scp_ok

Do I need at least something in the drive way if they are not going to put in rebar. The standard is just concrete so wiremesh is not put in either.

For the patio I'm thinking of putting in hot tub at some point so would I need rebar to support its weight.

Rebar just makes is stronger, right. Perhaps also prevent or reduce it cracking over time?

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Do not worry about putting rebar in the patio, even if you put a swimming pool there, if you order 3500 # concrete with fiber, it is suppose to support 3500 # per square inch of force. So the hottub will be prefectly o.k. on the patio. The fiber will take the place of the rebar, or the wire mesh. One consideration is that with the fiber mesh in the concrete you will have a smooth surface true, but there will be the fine hair like fiber mesh extruding up a little that will be worn off very shortly after you begin to use it. It would be a good idea to wear some sort of foot wear until you were ready to enter the hottub until the fibers protruding the top surface of the concrete is worn off.
By all means though, use the fiber mesh.
And as fall and winter is approaching, depending on the temperature outside, if it begins to be too cold the concrete company may suggest adding calcium to the concrete and this is suppose to help keep it from cracking due to freezing temperatures on the day, or the night of the pouring. So hurry and do what you are going to do.
Use the fiber and you will be satisfied.

No need for that unless you have large semi trucks that frequent you home... the only time we used rebar is when attaching a addition to an existing slab or foundation, or if we at a slab up against the house we would but as for in the slab and through out no.
Now commercial jobs I believe do add rebar

I am a professional civil engineer and specialize in concrete construction. Rebar does not prevent cracks, but will keep crack widths tight. Welded wire mesh is too little steel to do much good, except to prevent vertical offsets (one side of a crack being higher than the other side). Steel fibers are good in minimizing cracks, but they are expensive. Synthetic fibers delay crack formation when concrete is fresh and being placed during hot-windy weather; it does nothing to control crack size after the concrete is hard. Uniform soil support for the slab is important, so base rock may be needed if the native soil gets weak when wet. In arid locations, control joints at a spacing of about 10 ft really help prevent random cracking. To get extra strength to minimize cracks from overloading, don't use steel reinforcement, but rather put the money into a thicker concrete section. A 5-in. slab is 50% stronger in flexural strength than a 4-in. thick slab.