My dryer is a Whirpool LE7760XWW0

The dryer won't start. If I unplug it and turn the timer, the timer doesn't run. If I plug it in, and the timer is set, it runs. (I forgot to check the power at the outlet, but with that, I'm assuming it is good.)

I took the back panel off and began to take readings and the only one that I found was bad was the following part:

Partselect.com - Whirlpool Washer Parts And All Brands of Appliance Parts

Would that stop my dryer from starting? The wire was completely broken off from the one side. The dryer was very, very hot prior to it stopping working.

Am I correct in my assumption that this could stop my dryer from starting?

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Originally Posted by jclay

My dryer is a Whirpool LE7760XWW0

The dryer won't start. If I unplug it and turn the timer, the timer doesn't run. If I plug it in, and the timer is set, it runs. (I forgot to check the power at the outlet, but with that, I'm assuming it is good.)

I took the back panel off and began to take readings and the only one that I found was bad was the following part:

Partselect.com - Whirlpool Washer Parts And All Brands of Appliance Parts

Would that stop my dryer from starting? The wire was completely broken off from the one side. The dryer was very, very hot prior to it stopping working.

Am I correct in my assumption that this could stop my dryer from starting?

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I'm pretty that was the high limit thermostat. It looks exactly like the picture. (I know I sound bad, but I'm really trying.)

It was attached to a silver rectangular type panel.

Have you checked the door switch and the thermal fuse?

I didn't disconnect the wires from the thermal fuse, but read it and got zero.

I haven't checked the door switch.

I know I have to replace the high limit thermostat as it's broken, but I'm not sure as to how I'd get at the door switch.

Any suggestions?

The thermal fuse is located on the back side of the vent housing and the door switch is either secured by 2 screws or has plastic locking tabs. Will have to remove the front or cabinet to remove it

Quote:

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Originally Posted by esquire1

The thermal fuse is located on the back side of the vent housing and the door switch is either secured by 2 screws or has plastic locking tabs. Will have to remove the front or cabinet to remove it

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I checked the thermal fuse. I got 'zero' when I read across the terminals.

I just figured out the screws on the lint filter had to come out to get the top up. I got that part done... unfortunately my brother and his multimeter just left.

You could jumper around it to test it

How would I do that?

You will have 2 or3 wires on the switch. One is power to the switch and one is power out. The other would be of the light inside of dryer if you have one. You would just jumper the power in to the power out. In other words, just jumpering around the switch. If you do have a light inside of unit and it works (does come on when door is open), It's a good indication that the switch is good

I don't have a light on the inside of the dryer. So by 'jumpering' does that mean to connect the 'power in' wire to the 'power out' terminal?

(I apologize if I'm completely screwing this up.)

Yes, power in to power out. Then see if it starts

I jumpered it and it didn't.

It appears that there are two (2) thermal fuses on this. One close to the exhaust hose connection and one was right below the high limit thermostat.

I used a little cheap positive/negative power in light to see if there was power to both. The one by exhaust hose connection had power. The one below the high limit thermostat had the 'power light' light up when I touched one lead to it and another to ground... but not when I touched both to positive and negative.

I'll have a better multimeter in the morning. I'm growing a bit weary at the moment.