My Honda Civic Lx 2001 was going wonderfully down the then all of a sudden it slowed and when I pulled over it was dead, when I tried to start it, it would crank up but then died.. I finnally had to have it pulled to the house: and like everyone else Honda charges way tooo much:eek: so what is the problem? I just had it serviced a week before (oil change,engine check,air filter change) A friend who works on cars said it looked like the gas was not getting to the engine and asked me to get a service manual and fuel filter (he said the fuel pump was kicking on so its not that) so I called ABC and they had the manual for around $18. But when I got there I was told that they don't make service manuals for 2001 honda civics and that there is no fuel filter on a 2001 honda!? :confused:
So I really need help here, please;)

Run through the tests outlined in sections A and B below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...das-46563.html

. Check all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter. Here's how:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

. Check for diagnostic trouble codes--use a code reader or scan tool.
. Check for spark.
. Check the Ignition Control Module, which AutoZone will do for free.

Odds are 90% that it's an electrical-related problem, not fuel. I suspect the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP), ECM (computer), or Ignition Control Module. Of all the distributorless ignition components, the CKP is most failure-prone and most likely to cause a cranking, no-start, no-spark complaint. Since CKPs are mounted close to the crankshaft or flywheel, they are usually exposed to water, oil and vibration, neither of which will contribute to the longevity of the part. Here's what the CKP looks like and costs:

While we find your parts, please enter your ZIP Code at PartsAmerica.com

Hope this helps.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

Run through the tests outlined in sections A and B below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...das-46563.html

. Check all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter. Here's how:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

. Check for diagnostic trouble codes--use a code reader or scan tool.
. Check for spark.
. Check the Ignition Control Module, which AutoZone will do for free.

Odds are 90% that it's an electrical-related problem, not fuel. I suspect the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP), ECM (computer), or Ignition Control Module. Of all the distributorless ignition components, the CKP is most failure-prone and most likely to cause a cranking, no-start, no-spark complaint. Since CKPs are mounted close to the crankshaft or flywheel, they are usually exposed to water, oil and vibration, neither of which will contribute to the longevity of the part. Here's what the CKP looks like and costs:

While we find your parts, please enter your ZIP Code at PartsAmerica.com

Hope this helps.

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The man working on my car said that all fuses are a.o.k. The car turns over then idles out, and sputters,then dies (my cars and men die out too fast:eek: ) When he puts gas in the engine by hand the car starts right up like nothen wrong... I am ready to take a shotgun to it!!

I had a similar problem that was caused by a blocked fuel hose. Took forever to figure it out but once we did, it was a pretty simple fix. Just a shot in the dark...

If you still suspect it's fuel-related, check the fuel pressure regulator and fuel pressure going to the fuel rail. The fuel rail must be pressurized, in order for fuel injectors to properly work. Fuel pressure should likely be between 40-47 psi.