I have a 3 year old John Deere L110 that is not charging the battery. Over the summer, the engine has cranked slower and slower, until it finally would not start. I could jump it with a bump box no problem. Plenty of cranking speed. I also put a trickle charger on the battery for a couple days, removed the charger, and it cranked like normal a week later. I do not notice an appreciable different in voltage running vs not running. I switched my volt meter to AC volts, and it registers 12 volts not running, 14-15 volts running. Any ideas? Is there a diode or voltage regulator that maybe went bad? The dealer says it is the battery (which is OEM), but it obviously is not. It holds a charge just fine, and still has plenty of cranking power.

Wait, are you saying you are measureing DC volts with your meter switched to AC volts? Why is that? The 14 vdc is correct for an engine running, that should charge the battery. If you are measuring 14 vdc coming into the battery while running and it still discharges I'm going to have to vote with your dealer. 3 years is a bit early for a battery to fail but not beyond possibility.

I am only getting 12 volts DC whether running or not. I figured maybe a bad voltage regulator or diode would cause the charging system to output AC rather than DC. It is not the battery. I guarantee that. A bad battery would not crank like new after a week off the charger. The battery has been getting slowly drained all summer. It could also be a parasitic drain. It only takes me 15 minutes to mow the lawn. I let it run about an hour after jumping it one day. I then shut it off, and it cranked slow, but enough to start it. It was completely dead when I jumped it with a bump box. I asked the dealer about a parasitic drain, and he did not think that was the case. I connected an ammeter between the positive terminal and cable, and did not register a drain when it was shut off. My voltmeter/ammeter only goes up to 250ma, so I did not want to try it running.

"I switched my volt meter to AC volts, and it registers 12 volts not running, 14-15 volts running." This sentence is what confused me. Yep, you could have a bad diode. Most auto parts and lawn mower repair places will test it for free but you need to unmount it and take it in.

I have a 2003 L110 that has developed the same problem. I replaced the battery, in fact I have put two new batteries in it and the problem continues. When I park it, I can take the positive battery cable off and leave it off while the machine is not in use, then put the cable back on and it cranks fine, so it is not the battery. I do not have a solution, but I do think you have a problem other than the battery because my L110 does the same thing.

About the same time my problem started, I noticed that my hour meter is not working properly. I wonder if this could be related to the charging problem?

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Originally Posted by RSmith4744

About the same time my problem started, I noticed that my hour meter is not working properly. I wonder if this could be related to the charging problem?

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I wonder if the ignition switch and/or hour meter could be causing the battery to drain? Another post mentioned a screwy ignition switch. I still think there may be some kind of parasitic power drain, yet, I also think it is not charging properly. With the engine running 15-20 minutes, that should be long enough to charge the battery up from just starting it that day. It is only cranking a few seconds. I have started the mower a few times since I last charged it, and it seems fine. Time will tell.

The hour meter could be the problem if it is a short inside the clock. Try bypassing/dosconnect it and see if you hold your charge.

Wow, you I too would vote on the battery at first, but I too got confused you saying you had 14 - 15volts running, then saying only 12 volts running or not, or maybe someone else that came in on it. Try disconnecting the hourmeter as ballengerb1 suggested. But I still would suspect the battery.

If it were the battery, how would you account for the fact that you can take off the positive cable when you park the mower and then replace it the next time you use it and the battery does fine? Just seems as if something would have to be pulling the battery down.

In my case, it is absolutely, positively, not the battery. Something is either pulling it down, or it is not charging.

RS have you tried disconnecting that hour meter? When you reconnect the battery do you get a slight spark when the terminal touches the post, if so there is a short.

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Originally Posted by ballengerb1

RS have you tried disconnecting that hour meter? When you reconnect the battery do you get a slight spark when the terminal touches the post, if so there is a short.

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I even tried removing the positive cable, and holding it close to the terminal to see if I get a spark. Nothing... I am convinced it is not charging either due to a faulty generator/alternator, or bad voltage regulator.

No spark when reconnecting and I disconnected the hour meter this afternoon. I will post in a day or two whether this made a difference or not.

I have a John Deere L110 as well. My battery died about a month ago, so I replaced it. Yesterday the new battery died. I got clicking sounds for the first turn of the key, then nothing. When jump starting the battery the JD started fine. I suspect that it has to do with the charging system. My JD dealer service department thinks it's the "Half Wave Rectifier". I looked on a parts list but didn't se any recitifiers. Any ideas?

I've been having very similar problems with my L110. Had replaced the battery about two years ago with one from walmart. Engine now will turn over about once and that's it, even after trickle charging all night. Took battery out and had it tested at Schucks. Voltage was OK, but cca was only about 100. Their other Exide batteries were rated at 165 cca. He recommended a regular car battery, but of course that won't fit into the L110. They couldn't find the L110 in their book, so couldn't tell me what the proper cca should be. I took battery down to the old John Deere store and they sold me a new exide rated 300 cca (Cold Cranking Amps) for $64. Haven't tested it out yet, but if you have replaced your original battery with one from Walmart, it may not have enough cca to handle the load. It may be that the common lawn tractor batteries you can get most places, just don't have enough muscle for the L110. Anyone have a spec sheet for what the L110 battery cca should be?

From the factory the cca is 195

I had the same problem, got worse every year. I thoroughly cleaned the battery terminals and the cables to expose lots of clean copper and it has been starting like new. Also make sure the batter fluid levels are good.

Guys,Its very easy to fit a car battery to L110, I've used a Champion 40D.You take out the one screw holding battery carrier and slide in carrier and battery together.The new battery will be a bit taller but no interference.Take off cable fittings and fit appropriate ends.

I've got a 3 year old L111 and am having the same problem. I charged the battery this winter (jan) and didn't use the mower until April. The battery was dead. That would tend to say that the charger isn't the problem but that there must be a slow drain. The mower was kept in a heated garage so cold wasn't a problem. Any ideas?