We have been having a concern where periodically the toilet and or tub will not drain then everything stops draining. Apx 3 years ago we rented an auger and cleaned out the line this seemed to work until a few months ago when everything backed up again. This time we had someone come out and look at it, they indicated that we have an older cast iron sewer line that had several trouble spots the worst being over 1/2 way taken over by roots. They did not want to clear the roots for fear that the pipe would collapse they have recommended replacing the pipe from the clean-out to just past the trouble spots.
*is this something we can do?
*what type of pipe would we replace it with PVC or do we have to attempt to find cast iron?
*also about how far down would a sewer pipe lie (house was built in 1953)?

Thanks
~Samantha

Just replaced our line, house built in 53.

Line was approximately 8 feet down. No way to do it reasonably without a backhoe/ mini-excavator of some sort, at least that I can see. I know a guy who did it himself. I wouldn't do it myself. I think proper sewer drainage is best left to a professional. Get several quotes. Ours cost $3600 for dig out, replacement, fill in, and compacting the soil.

Wed had no problems, but we know there were issues from an inspection, and all the houses in this area have needed it done, so it was pre-emptive strike. Two weeks after we did ours a neighbor had half her basement flooded with sewage. Made paying that bill a whole lot easier.

Having seen how to do it now, I think I could dig the trench... but itd take me three times as long, and I wouldn't do the sewer line... there are just some things I think you need to be willing to pay for.

Ill run most of my own copper lines and rehab a bath without a second through... but I'm just not going to mess around with a sewer line... though, like I said, a buddy did his own at a 1/3 of the cost...

Just my opinion...

Your sewer line could be anywhere from 4' to 10' deep .Best thing to do is try to hand dig a spot first before renting equipment.I replaced my mom's pipes & they were only 3' to 4' and house was built in early 50's too. I would replace with Pvc . They have rubber boots that adapt from cast iron to Pvc. You can also buy sawsall blades specially made for cutting cast iron but I would buy 1 blade per cut ,they wear out after cutting 1 pipe.You can check were you live, but you should be able to pull your own permit if you go that route

It will depend upon where you live and how deep the frost line is as tool the depth of your pipes. They told you that the roots were all that wasw holding the cast iron pipes together? You ask if there's something you can do. For openers let's control the roots and give you some breathing room will you get at least three estimates to replace the line. For immediate relief and to kill the existing roots and prevent further growth you can purchase RootX or Robics Foaming Root Killer that contain Dichlobrnic.
A less expensive way would be to call around to garden supply stores and ask for fine grain Copper Sulphate. Put a 1/2 pound in your toilet and flush it down. Repeat in 6 months.
Let me say that sooner or later you're going to have to bite the bullet and replace that old sewer line with PVC. Good luck, Tom