The toilet in our master bedroom was leaking around the floor. I turned the water off, flushed it one last time to get the water out of the tank, and called the plumber, who stopped by today. I wasn't there, but my g/f took a bunch of notes.

He unbolted the toilet and pulled the flange out away from the sewer pipe. What it looks like is that the top of the sewer pipe is about an inch below floor level. Whoever installed this toilet originally just glued down a flange that never really fit, hence the leaks. His recommendation would be to break out all of the concrete, replace the sewer pipe, pour new concrete, install a new flange, then fit a toilet on top of that. Needless to say, he's estimating about $1,000 to do all of that, not counting the cost of a new toilet (toilet is old and needs to be replaced anyway) and the cost of repairing the linoleum around it that will get torn up.

Has anyone ever run across this before? I've attached a few pictures to show what it looks like. The concrete around the sewer pipe is a little jagged, but is there any way to do this without having to rip everything up?

Thoughts?

Hang tight before you drop a grand-I'm sure Speedball will chime in with expert advice on this when he sees it. There should be a way to extend the existing pipe without all the demo, I believe, but he'd know for sure. Good luck

Are you sure you don't have hot water running to the toilet? I don't see very much of a wax ring with boot >?? :":

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Originally Posted by Flying Blue Eagle

Are you sure you dont have hot water running to the toilet ? ,I dont see very much of a wax ring with boot >???:":

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Ha... no hot water. The flange (in the 3rd pic) is sitting there upside down. You can see the remnants of the old wax ring sticking out, mushed from years of a toilet sitting on top of it combined with the flange not being bolted to the floor.

A wax ring with boot ,may be all it takes, it sticks down further. ( the reason I asked about hot water going to toilet was because I have came across this problem and it washes away the wax) >:""

Looks like 4" PVC down there. If this were my call I would first jam rags down in the closet bend as insurance against cement spill overs. n Next I would take a piece of 4"PVC pipe and jam it tight against the top of the closet bend and pour cement around the pipe to bring the opening up to floor level. After the cement cures and the PVC pipe pulled out I would purchase a 4" inside deep closet flange 6"deep,(see image). You will have to Tapcon or use plastic inserts and screws to secure the flange to the floor. A six ince throat on the flange should get you past the closet bend without taking up any cement. Good luck Tom