I am planning to replace my existing waste drain from kitchen with PVC, What is the best method for cutting black cast pipe. I don't want to break or crack since I will be connecting with boots.
Much Appreciated
Jaxmidway
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I am planning to replace my existing waste drain from kitchen with PVC, What is the best method for cutting black cast pipe. I don't want to break or crack since I will be connecting with boots.
Much Appreciated
Jaxmidway
You can't crack it. Cut it with any method available, preferably power. A power hack saw is usually used when it was put up. A saws all is probably the best choice. So will a jig saw. Make sure you use the right blade. A surface grinder with a cutting wheel in it will work too.
Clearances when using the power tools will likely be the biggest problem. Remember to wear your safety glasses.
You might wait and see what others have to say.
If you want to spend a lot of time and go through a slew of metal blades then take stupids advice and use a Saws-All. Cast iron is very hard and dense and cuts very slow.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaxmidway
To cut cast iron you use a set of snap cutters if the pipe's horizontal and a set of ratchet cutters if the pipe's vertical. If the pipe's in a trench use the ratchet cutters. You may rent the cutters at your local Rent-All place. If the drain line your replacing is a vertical stack don't use flexible couplings. Use a shielded coupling,(see image) It will give you better support. Good luck, Tom
Speedball
I appreciate your professional advice and will check out my local rental establishment.
It seems like I had galvanized and cast iron confused, even though it was black. I did find this thread though which suggests that SOME plumbers prefer a saws all or grinder method with the proper blade:
Award winning plumbing, kitchen, water and bath help, discussion and advice forum = Plbg.com
I do appreciate the snap cutter method. Cool. Thanks.
In general, in forums where we have a highly experienced member, it is better to listen to their advice than go to some web site a less experienced person finds. There is a lot of nonsense out there.
Actually, the link provided by Stupid should have also been considered helpful.Quote:
Originally Posted by labman
Bosch, Lenox and Milwaukee (just to name a few) all make tungsten carbide blades designed specifically for cutting cast iron soil pipe.
A diamond blade in an angle grinder also does a great job of cutting cast iron soil pipe, and is very handy for knocking down the lettering (never install a shielded coupling over the raised lettering on cast iron pipe) cast into older bell and spigot cast iron soil pipe.
A snap cutter is always my first choice, but there are situations where a snap cutter causes more problems than it solves.
Cast iron piping, particularly if it's been submerged in a wet crawlspace or acidic soils can be very soft, and will just be crushed if cut with a snap cutter. There are also homes out there plumbed with service weight cast iron during WWII when iron was scarce that will shatter if tapped gently with a hammer.
Before cutting cast iron soil piping, I always tap it with a wooden mallet, if it rings like a bell, I use a snap cutter, if it gives a thunking sound, I use a sawzall with a tungsten carbide blade or a angle grinder with a diamond wheel.
Again thanks for all the great input... I will use the wooden mallet test. The house is in North Florida, built in the 50's and the pipe in situated in a 3' crawl space under the house. 60% of the pipe is buried in a sandy soil. It's pretty dry under there though.
If space is real tight a grinder or Saws-All is the way to go but if I can get in with a set of ratchet cutters. I live in a area where we don't run into much old cast iron so I don't test cast iron with a wooden mallet. If we riun into nasty cast iron we just replace it with PVC. Growler/ keepitstupid, all good advice. When I was out in the field all my Saws-All I had was metal cutting blades and that took a lotta time and a lotta blades to get through cast iron.
Good luck, Tom
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