I'm trying to remove a 4" bronce/copper(?) pipe from a cast iron hub. The joint appears to be solded with lead. I heated the joint with a hand held gas torch expecting to losing up the lead but it did not make a dent on it. I have opted for hammering the pipe out but it is showing harder that I thought. Any ideas?


:confused:

Is it in a place where you can just cut the pipe with a sawzall and use a rubber boot, like No-Hub, for the part you are replacing?

Is this at your stack?

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Originally Posted by zaquero

I'm trying to remove a 4" bronce/copper(?) pipe from a cast iron hub. The joint appears to be solded with lead. I heated the joint with a hand held gas torch expecting to loosing up the lead but it did not make a dent on it. I have opted for hammering the pipe out but it is showing harder that I thought. Any ideas?


:confused:

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Rick hit the nail right on the head. If this were my call I would take a Saws-All, (reciprocating saw) and cut the 4" copper leaving a piece three or four inches sticking out of the hub. I would then use a Fernco Neoprene coupling to couple the copper and PVC together. Support the coupling and PVC pipe with a pipe hanger so it doesn't put a strain on the neoprene coupling. Hope this helps. Good luck, Tom

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Originally Posted by speedball1

Rick hit the nail right on the head. If this were my call I would take a Saws-All, (reciprocating saw) and cut the 4" copper leaving a piece three or four inches sticking out of the hub. I would then use a Fernco Neoprene coupling to couple the copper and PVC together. Support the coupling and PVC pipe with a pipe hanger so it doesn't put a strain on the neoprene coupling. hope this helps. Good luck, Tom

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Tom/RicK:

I wish I had sent you my question before I ruined the copper piece. I am now trying to clear the hub of the badly bent copper pipe. I'm working in the basement where the cast iron pipe comes off the drain/vent pipe and then turns 90 degrees up towards the bathroom floor. Since I want to preserve the hub (facing upwards) I really would like to undue the joint somehow. Is that doable?


Mario

Ouch.

While speedball1 is right, that 3-4" is preferrable... do you have anything left sticking out of the hub. If so, how much?

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Originally Posted by zaquero

Tom/RicK:

I wish I had sent you my question before I ruined the copper piece. I am now trying to clear the hub of the badly bent copper pipe. I'm working in the basement where the cast iron pipe comes off the drain/vent pipe and then turns 90 degrees up towards the bathroom floor. Since I want to preserve the hub (facing upwards) I really would like to undue the joint somehow. Is that doable?


Mario

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Hey Mario,

What we have here is a 4" piece of copper leaded into a cast Iron hub. It's indeed regrettable that you destroyed the copper pipe so now you have to remove the lead and oakum poured joint. how I do this is to take a torch and melt the lead to the point of where I can drive a screwdriver down to the packed oakum. I then start to lever the lead ring up and out of the hub. Once the lead ring is out you can pick out the oakum and remove the copper pipe.
OK! Now you have a open cast iron hub. What now?? Unless you have lead working tools, equipment and skills,( and there aren't all that many of us left) you're going to have to use a "rubber doughnut" insert in the hub that will accept a 4" piece of PVC. They do make a cast iron to PVC doughnut and it's acceptable to shave some of the rubber off if the fit is too tight. Let me know what you think. Tom

Hey guys thank you for taking the time to answer my questions. There is nothing usable left in the cooper pipe, so I have to go with Tom's suggestion. The only thing is that I already tried to heat the joint, but nothing happened. I may need to insolate the area and apply the heat higher and longer. I am pretty sure it is lead (what else could it be?). It looks like lead and some fragments have already come out, but the spigot is still anchored into the hub. If I am able to do this (please tell me that I will), I have seen the PCV/cast iron hub adaptor in Home Depot. I did not see the rubber doughnut though, but I will ask for it tonight in the Plumbing supply store.

Mario

This is starting to get out of my area of expertise... but one thing: If your torch head is rated for use with MAPP gas, try that. It's significantly hotter than propane - and will speed up the heating significantly.

If you are getting nowhere with the torch, try drilling a hole in the lead and then pounding a punch or screwdriver in it.

Hey fellows... I'm happy to report that I got it out!! You all have been terribly helpful. I decided to go with the drilling tip. I found the MAPP rated torch but I was already worry that this project could have ended with all the firemen in town around my house. Plus, I saved myself $40 and you know, we all this home projects just to save money and spend adrenaline instead.

They showed me the rubber doughnut at the plumbing supply store. That it is going to be hard to fit in, but if I undid the joint I should be able to set this up (so I think). Alternatively, they suggested the old method of packed oakum but instead of lead they have some sort of plastic compound. Would this work well?

Anyway, thank you again for helping me out of this one.

Mario
:p

Hooray for Mario!
[Insert clapping hand avitar here!]
:p

Zaquero,
Just read you question concerning that branch line that is tied in to the CI hub. If you use the hand held torch make sure you use the one that is for Mapp gas. This burns hotter and should melt the lead. Once you have some of the lead melted you may be able to pry one of the melted ends out and work your way around by prying the solder away from the inside of the hub. There is probably oakum that is packed under the lead joint which is holding that piece you want to remove. You have to get the solder out first then remove the oakum within.

Hopefully this will help you.

George

George,
Before you post a answer look up in the left hand corner. That's when the post was current. You just responded to a four year old thread. Regards, Tom