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-   -   Recessed cans and I/C rating, what does it really mean? (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=12070)

  • Aug 24, 2005, 09:13 AM
    atticguy
    Recessed cans and I/C rating, what does it really mean?
    Hello again all, and thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.

    I installed 8 recessed (6") cans in my attic ceiling. they are rated for insulation contact (I/C) . they are installed in a 2x4 ceiling. i plan to lay insulation perpindicular/over the top of the 2x4's. and then also insulate the 2x4's as normal. thus creating the best r-value i can get (i'm in wisconsin). i know the cans can come in contact with insulation, that's kinda obvious. and i know that the cans can't come into contact (min 2" distance) with anything combustable (ie rafters,joists, etc.).

    My question is: can I just bury the cans in the insulation with no clearance whatsoever?

    Are there issues with heat escape? I currently have fluorescent bulbs in, so little heat is building up, but I'm concerned about what may happen in the future. At the same time, if I leave a heat "vent" in the insulation, I'm worried about the hole in the ceiling allowing conditioned air to escape, possibly condense, and start a situation.

    Sorry so lengthy, :rolleyes:

    Louie
  • Aug 24, 2005, 09:48 AM
    RickJ
    Despite the fact that they are rated for insulation "contact" I would not install them with insulation "hugging" them. Those can lights just get so dog-gone hot!

    I'd definitely leave a bit of clearance - but not necessarily 2".
  • Aug 24, 2005, 12:00 PM
    tkrussell
    Recess fixture housings rated Type IC are intended to have direct contact with insulation, with the lamp that the housing is rated for.

    Keeping the insulation away is not recommended since any air gap will allow heating or cooling to escape. And will compromise the R value of the insulation installation.

    And yes, if an air gap does existing,esp. into the attic, escaping cooled air will cause condensation at every gap.

    Each fixture contains a thermal protector that will shut the power off to the fixture lampholder in the event the lamp installed is too large.

    Also, you are incorrect with leaving 2 inches away from wood framing. Type IC rated fixtures housings can come in direct contact with combustible materials, such as framing members.
  • Aug 24, 2005, 12:04 PM
    RickJ
    Thank you for that addition, tkrussell.

    So are you saying, then, that insulation hugging the cans is just no problem?
  • Aug 24, 2005, 01:33 PM
    tkrussell
    Yes , and actually I could probably find a building or energy code that if you do use IC cans, or must use IC ans in certain areas, that the insulation must come in contact with the housing, to prevent heat/cooling loss.

    Also, good point Labman, seal around the aperature to prevent air leaks. Some trims may do this automaticaly, but a little caulk will not hurt.
  • Aug 24, 2005, 02:19 PM
    labman
    My guess is that TKrussel is more up on codes than the rest of us here. Also, make sure the can is sealed to the drywall so air can't leak past. IC rated cans, good insulation, and flouresent bulbs, too bad more people don't take energy conservation as seriously.
  • Aug 24, 2005, 02:28 PM
    RickJ
    Thank you, tkrussell and labman.

    I'll never look down on a correction, addition or clarification of my sometimes not quite worth 2-cents worth. :p

    Do you feel ready to rock-on with your project, atticman?
  • Aug 25, 2005, 05:21 AM
    atticguy
    Also, you are incorrect with leaving 2 inches away from wood framing. Type IC rated fixtures housings can come in direct contact with combustible materials, such as framing members.

    I only stated this because it is what the installation instructions said. Thanks for all of the advice. I do feel comfortable moving on to the next phase. :cool:

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