Hello all. I have a 1998 Honda Civic LX 4 door sedan. I'm replacing my intermediate exhaust pipe. I bought 4 new bolts, just like the factory style, straight from the dealer because the dealer only sold them (with the exception of some online companies). When I went to put them on, they only tightened to a certain point due to a circular crown at the end. However, the springs weren't tightened/compressed all the way, thus the intermediate pipe didn't seal at the gasket. There's still an open gap where the pipe doesn't seal at the gasket. I broke a bolt using my impact gun because I figured that I had to keep turning to get it to tighten to the point where it'd compress the springs, however, the circular crown at the end kind of made this barrier point to where I couldn't tighten the nut in anymore? Am I doing something wrong? The springs I'm using are the original springs. When I put them into my vise they still compress and depress very well. Is there anything I should look for in the springs? I started looking into alternative bolt types, because the bolt with the crown at the end is expensive and I don't want to keep getting that if they're going to be breaking. I found online these bolts called stepped bolts. It's basically a bolt without the circular crown that has a sleeve in the middle. However, based on my observation, the problem with the sleeve is that it stops at the same point the circular crown stops at on the factory type bolts, which means I'm in for the same problem. I can't tell whether the sheathes are movable. I was looking into just getting a plain bolt with threads that go all the way to the tip with no interference. That way, I could drive the nut until the springs compress and the pipe mates with the gasket to create a seal. Is this a good idea? Are the stepped bolts a good idea? What should I get and do? I have attached links to pics of the factory style bolt, which is the singular bolt, and the stepped bolts, which is the pic with the bolts, springs, and nuts Thank you & have a good day.

http://catalog.autohausaz.com/autoha...0132066BSL.JPG

http://catalog.autohausaz.com/autoha...1540162BSL.JPG

The shoulder bolts are designed so the spring can't be fully compressed. This allows the engine to move under torque and not cause binding with the exhaust. If the donut gasket is in place and neither the exh manifold not the pipe is damaged or bent, there is something else missing from this picture. You're certain all the bolts go in properly?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CaptainRich

The shoulder bolts are designed so the spring can't be fully compressed. This allows the engine to move under torque and not cause binding with the exhaust. If the donut gasket is in place and neither the exh manifold not the pipe is damaged or bent, there is something else missing from this picture. You're certain all the bolts go in properly?

---

I'm hoping I'm putting in the bolts properly. I put it in according to how I took them out. The only difference that I see is that the spring is a little less compressed than how they were when I went to take them off. When I went to take the exhaust bolt off, the donut gaskets have a seal with the pipe just enough to the point where there isn't a gap. There was, I'd say roughly a 1/2 inch gap, where the gasket and pipe met just enough to keep the exhaust vapors from leaking, at both ends. If you looked, you could see the gasket inside of the gap & be able to tell that the gasket is the piece keeping the vapors from leaking. I tried to get my portable vise and was able to press the pipe to the edge of the gasket, however, was unable to tighten the bolts as they were on the stock exhaust. What would you recommend step by step? I have the pipe hung, and right now the bolts are in but I still have gaps. I purchased an aftermarket pipe but before I discarded the old one, I laid them side by side in comparison and they were the same sizes and everything, so I'm kind of baffled. Could it be the bolts? When I ordered the rear ones online, it was a short bolt, however, the dealership was about to sell me long bolts for the rear. So is the setup short bolts for the front, long bolts for the rear? Should I order new springs? Should I just get new shoulder bolts or will the step bolts fit the bill? Thank you & have a good day.

Take out all the bolts and make sure the threads are clean on both the bolts and in the bolt holes. Chances are they "bottomed out" before fully tightened. Without the springs or anything else in the way, you should be able to run the bolts all the way into the exh manifold without much effort. You'll notice on the nuts (for two of them in your pics) they are "distorted" and that distortion is what locks them. It can be very difficult to get them completely tightened and they are designed for only one use. If you opt for standard bolts and nuts, you'll need to add lock washers to keep things secure. Just be careful of total length.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CaptainRich

Take out all the bolts and make sure the threads are clean on both the bolts and in the bolt holes. Chances are they "bottomed out" before fully tightened. Without the springs or anything else in the way, you should be able to run the bolts all the way into the exh manifold without much effort. You'll notice on the nuts (for two of them in your pics) they are "distorted" and that distortion is what locks them. It can be very difficult to get them completely tightened and they are designed for only one use. If you opt for standard bolts and nuts, you'll need to add lock washers to keep things secure. Just be careful of total length.

---

Ok will do. I'll check it out tomorrow (it's dark outside now) and I'll keep you posted. Thank you & have a great day!!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CaptainRich

Take out all the bolts and make sure the threads are clean on both the bolts and in the bolt holes. Chances are they "bottomed out" before fully tightened. Without the springs or anything else in the way, you should be able to run the bolts all the way into the exh manifold without much effort. You'll notice on the nuts (for two of them in your pics) they are "distorted" and that distortion is what locks them. It can be very difficult to get them completely tightened and they are designed for only one use. If you opt for standard bolts and nuts, you'll need to add lock washers to keep things secure. Just be careful of total length.

---

Hello Captain Rich. I inspected the bolts and they were fine. When I was inspecting the bolts however, I kept looking back & forth at the pipe and the mounting points for the bolts and realized that I was being so hasty that I put the springs in the wrong place. HEHEHEHE!! I put the springs inside of the gaps instead of right with the bolts. When I reversed the order, I had to compress the spring just enough with the bolt so that it could match up to the nut and then tighten. That tension allowed the pipes to seal with the gaskets and fit just like stock. Thank you for all of your help and have a good day.

WONDERFUL!

Thank you for keeping your head up and solving your dilemma!

(Sometimes, I hide my own Easter eggs. LOL)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CaptainRich

WONDERFUL!

Thank you for keeping your head up and solving your dilemma!

(Sometimes, I hide my own Easter eggs. LOL)

---

LOL!!

Would someone please provide me with some assistance with compressing the springs? I would assume that they need to be compressed while "attached" to the bolts, but I can't seem to get enough space to compress the spring and still keep the bolt and spring in tact. Any help is appreciated.