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-   -   Super low rpm at idle, battery light on, needs jump (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=117813)

  • Aug 8, 2007, 02:57 PM
    StumpedByCars
    Super low rpm at idle, battery light on, needs jump
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey
    . Check Ignition Control Module, which is inside the distributor. AutoZone will do this for free.
    . Check Idle Air Control Valve and reset idle rpm.
    . Adjust throttle cable.

    I have a 1995 honda civic manual that drops to super low rpms whenever I depress the clutch or am in neutral (a few months ago it began oscillating in rpms when I was at a stoplight, but now, it drops to next to nothing). The battery light also comes on when the rpms drop. This has resulted in a number of occasions when I've needed a jumpstart after driving around town and having sat at stoplights.

    I am a total car-maintenance neophyte, but I'm inspired to try to fix this myself as much as possible. So I will be ULTRA thankful for the most detailed response possible.

    Thanks in advance for helping me to sleep better tonight!. Julie
  • Aug 8, 2007, 03:57 PM
    JohnSnownw
    Could be several factors. One, if it were just dropping during idle, I would say you just need to adjust the throttle mechanism (cannot think of the proper term) in the engine compartment. However, the power problem sounds like you need to check the alternator (this would be the mechanism that recharges your battery). Anyway, good luck!
  • Aug 8, 2007, 05:53 PM
    CaptainRich
    The idle speed on your car is computer controlled. If it's RPM is dropping too low, the alternator isn't going to turn fast enough to retain battery charge and system voltage will be so low, the vehicle can stall.

    There could be a number of things contributing to the problem. You should find a qualified ASE certified shop that can diagnose this for you. If after the diag is cone, and you still feel comfortable taking on the repair, be sure you take all their advise and don't omit steps to try to save a nickel.

    Many auto techs do a few little bonus tweeks along the way that aren't always included in the initial estimate. I know I do. In other words, if you brought your car to me and I said the crackometer was inop, and you authorized me to do the repair, I'd clean the widgistat, too, if it was dirty, as a bonus. Kind of a thank you thing. Like the bakers dozen from the days of yore...
  • Aug 8, 2007, 05:56 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    1. Adjust idle rpm by adjusting the throttle cable. The throttle cable adjustment requires two wrenches. I use a 12 mm open-end wrench and a small adjustable wrench. Loosen the nut on the right and tighten the inside nut on the left, until the idle speed increases to around 700 rpm. After the desired idle speed is reached, use one wrench to hold the right nut while you snug up the nut on the left. If erratic idle continues, proceed to Step 2, below:

    2. Here's how to remove and replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM):

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

    Personally, I would replace the ICM, coil, and rotor, while you have the distributor cap removed.

    3. There's a throttle cable bracket that requires checking. If the cable pops out from the bracket, it can significantly affect idle rpm and operation of the throttle.

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