Hi all, hope someone can help with my problem. My sister has a 1998 chevy cavalier z24 automatic 4 cyl. About a week ago the ETS light come on, no other lights. The buzzer was buzzing when she put the key in to start it and going down the road it would go off and on. Then it started jerking and jumping around really bad when the transmission changing gears. So she thought it needed transmission fluid even though she didn't know how to check it. So, yesterday going to auto zone it dyed twice. She got there and put a quart of transmission fluid in, goes to start it and it made a grinding noise and woulnt start. Put new battery on and it clicked but wouldn't start. Its sitting there tore up. Would like to get it running without spending a lot of money or having it towed. Any help woulg be greatly appreciated as she is a single mother working for minimum wage. Thanks!

Several thoughts:

. Sounds like the starter motor could be bad. This link may help you:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post235560

. My experience with other people, who have had the ETS light come on, is that it often indicates a weak ignition system. Begin by replacing the platinum spark plugs with the exact ACDelco plugs that came in the car (likely Part No. 41-928). Also, replace the fuel filter.

Enhanced Traction System (ETS) is used to stop wheel slip, by reducing engine output. If the light is on, it doesn't mean you will spend "X" amount of dollars to fix it. It means the ETS has been disabled, because you have a engine problem, and the computer cannot reduce power to the wheels because the engine might stall. Therefore, the computer disables the system. Some cars come with a switch by the shifter that turns the system on and off, because, if you get stuck in the snow, traction control will keep you stuck.

. If the problem persists, have AutoZone test the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil for free. Here's what the ICM looks like:

Zip Code Entry at PartsAmerica.com

Here's what the coil looks like:

Zip Code Entry at PartsAmerica.com

Make sure your sister did not overfill the transmission, which should be checked when the engine is hot and in Park. Look for the yellow dipstick. After you get the car running well again, remind her to get the transmission fluid and filter changed, to avoid the big unexpected expense.

Thanks, my husbands working on it, he was wondering why or how oil would get in the breather and if the car has a pvc valve? He's took the starter off and taking it to be tested so far.

When a car gets hot, the light molecules in conventional oil evaporate first and are recirculated through the PCV valve, which eventually gets plugged. The same thing happens with breather caps. You may need to change your oil more frequently or, better yet, start using full-synthetic engine oil (e.g. Mobil 1), which resists evaporation much better (higher NOACK volatility ratings). Look around the intake manifold for the PCV valve.

I did get some synthetic oil and slick 50 and a oil filter to change the oil as well as plugs and wires.

Synthetic oil and filter is all you need--it's a chemically complete package on its own. I'm not a fan of Slick 50.

Can this ETS system cause the motor to lock up? There's no reset button on the gear shifter and he says that when the starters not tightened down it turns. And when he tightened it down against fly wheel it doesn't turn.

No. Sounds like the starter motor is bad. Did you install a new one?

Sounds like the wrong starter.

He had the starter that was on the car already tested at advance and they said starter was fine. Is the starter motor a different part from the starter? I'm sorry to seem so dense, as I said my husband is working on the car for her and I've been reading him these directions out loud and I have the feeling he may have missed something I've read. He also changed the oil using synthetic, left out slick 50 as advised, changed the spark plugs and wires, changed fuel filter, and got a new battery. Car still won't start.

Does the starter motor "crank" the engine; i.e. does the engine turn over at normal speed during starting?

He said, he put a new starter and battery on, it started and run, then dead and won't do anything. Also when he changed spark plugs one had oil in it.

. Check all under-hood and under-dash fuses with a test light or multimeter. Here's how to do it:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

. Check for spark.

. Check for any diagnostic trouble codes, using a code reader or scan tool.

So he shouldn't start with the alternator? Maybe I need to mention that she told me that if the radio was not on the fan was not on. Also he never could find the ignition control module to have it tested.

Thanks for all your help but apparently this is more than my husband has the tools or know how for. I'll have chevy dealer pick it up today. Thanks.

Here's what the Ignition Control Module looks like and costs:

Zip Code Entry at PartsAmerica.com

Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.

You were very helpful, he's the one who can't follow directions. He looked at the pic and still couldn't locate it. Thanks.

Hey again, haven't been able to get the car towed yet. Husband decided to keep working on it until we could have it towed. Advance says they can't test the ignition control modulator, is there someone that does? Also, He forgot to mention earlier the negative post on the battery stays hot.

Call O'Reilly Auto Parts and ask them if they can check the Ignition Control Module for that car--some can and some can't.

O'reilly's tested ignition control module and its fine. Any other ideals?