I have a honda accord lx no efi that ran with a low idle & died occasionally. I cleaned the iavc screen and when I tried to start it, the battery ran down and clicked and made all kind of weird noises. I think the starter stayed engaged. After replacing the battery & negative battery cable because it was frayed and held by 2 wires. I had no spark, no fuel pump noise. I have tried a new igniter (icm) and a coil. Put the old ones back in and they tested fine. I replaced the map sensor. I bench tested the main relay and it did all three clicks. I jumpered the connectors in the relay connector and got the fuel pump to run. I have power from the ecm to the map sensor 10 v when the ignition on. I took the ecm out and opened it up and did not see anything funny. I could not figure out the d19- and d21+ test. The check engine light does not come on when you turn on the key. There is no trouble codes when the connector under the glove is jumpered. I also checked the ignition switch at the fuse box. I also replaced the turn signal flasher because it flashes by itself when the key is on intermittently, and still does. But that was going on before it died. I don't think the check engine light has ever come on when you turn on the key. I checked voltage to the distributor. This thing just cranks and cranks. I have tired everything I can find to test and it all tests good. I also checked the three sensors in the distributor with an ohm meter and they are in range. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Otherwise I'll have to bite the bullet and call the wrecker. Thanks, frank

. Check all under dash and under hood fuses with a test light or multimeter.

. See if this helps:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post291477

. K-Test results should be 5 volts, not 10 volts.

I did test all of the fuses and paid special attention to the ones they said to.
K test gives me 10 volts at all three prongs on the map through the meter with the other lead grounded.
What does 10v indicate?

You likely have a bad ECM--try to substitute a known-good one. Since fuses are good, main relay is fine, the ignition switch checks out okay, and the CEL doesn't come on, the ECM is the only thing left and it doesn't pass the K-Test. It's even possible 10 volts burned out the CEL.