Ask Me Help Desk - Arbutin creams Do they work? Any bad side effects?

I have post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation due to an episode of contact dermatitis and have heard a lot about arbutin from bearberry.

Has anyone tried the Revitol cream? Does it work?

Can arbutin worsen hyperpigmentation as hydroquinone can?

Any other suggestions/info would be greatly appreciated.

Quote:

Originally Posted by OffTheDeepEnd

I have post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation due to an episode of contact dermatitis and have heard a lot about arbutin from bearberry.

Has anyone tried the Revitol cream? Does it work?

Can arbutin worsen hyperpigmentation as hydroquinone can?

Any other suggestions/info would be greatly appreciated.

Hi... I've been using an arbutin lotion with a 7% concentration with no problems... I combine this with a kojic acid cream... I have no problems... I have hyperpigmentation /melasma from birth control and other medications... and this has worked... arbutin has not been known to cause hyperpigmentation like hydrquinone...

In the presence of sufficient alkalinity, arbutin is readily converted to hydroquinone in the liver. This is the very reason bearberry is commonly used to treat urinary tract infections. Hydroquinone is also a strong antiseptic in certain regards, though can be unduly hard on the liver. I would take the same precautions with arbutin regarding hydroquinone's toxicity. Be very careful of overuse.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boricua1

hi.... I've been using an arbutin lotion with a 7% concentration with no problems..... I combine this with a kojic acid cream.... I have no problems.... I have hyperpigmentation /melasma from birth control and other medications ...... and this has worked.... arbutin has not been known to cause hyperpigmentation like hydrquinone........

Hi Boricua

Thanks for the info. Glad you had a good experience with arbutin. Have you been using the cream for a long time (over 6 weeks)? I've read conflicting reports on arbutin. Some say it doesn't carry the same side effects as hydroquinone, but others say that with long-term use it can darken your skin. That's why I like to hear people's personal experience with it. I've heard things about kojic acid as well. But it sounds like it's working for you. Glad you found something that works for you--cause as you know this can be so frustrating.

Thanks again.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thomas1970

In the presence of sufficient alkalinity, arbutin is readily converted to hydroquinone in the liver. This is the very reason bearberry is commonly used to treat urinary tract infections. Hydroquinone is also a strong antiseptic in certain regards, though can be unduly hard on the liver. I would take the same precautions with arbutin regarding hydroquinone's toxicity. Be very careful of overuse.

Hi Thomas1970

Thanks for the info. I've read that about arbutin as well. That it is merely a naturally occurring derivative of hydroquinone that can be found in bearberry and other berry extracts. That is why I'm so concerned about it worsening the hyperpigmentation.

I know that hydroquinone can cause hyperpigmentation with long-term use or sunexposure. I even heard of some cases where people experienced darkening of the skin after a few days of use. That's very concerning. And once the skin darkens from hydroquinone there isn't much that can be done about it.

I've also read that arbutin is very unstable and becomes ineffective quickly if it is packaged in a jar where it is exposed to light and air.

Thanks again for the info.

I've only been using these products for a little more than 6 months... about 6 months and two weeks... so I'm not sure what to expect however long term use of products even those containing hydroquinone is said to be 1-2 years... I doubt I will use it that long... I'm sure my hyperpigmentation will come back at some point because nothing is permanent they say... but until then I will use the products until it fades completely. Hopefully after it has faded I can continue using the kojic acid treatments... I've been to a dermatologist but usually what they give me either has no effect, is too expensive (not covered by insurance because hyperpigmentation is considered cosmetic... ) or makes my skin worse... like irritated or dry, or even oily... which of course cause it's own problems... I guess I can only play the waiting game... but I keep my physician advised and so far no problems... best of luck to you...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boricua1

I've only been using these products for a little more than 6 months..... about 6 months and two weeks....... so I'm not sure what to expect however long term use of products even those containing hydroquinone is said to be 1-2 years..... I doubt I will use it that long.... I'm sure my hyperpigmentation will come back at some point because nothing is permanent they say.... but until then I will use the products until it fades completely. Hopefully after it has faded I can continue using the kojic acid treatments..... I've been to a dermatologist but usually what they give me either has no effect, is too expensive (not covered by insurance because hyperpigmentation is considered cosmetic....) or makes my skin worse..... like irritated or dry, or even oily....... which of course cause it's own problems...... I guess I can only play the waiting game.... but I keep my physician advised and so far no problems......... best of luck to you.......

Thanks for the info.

You've been using it for 6 months--have you noticed significant lightening?

When you went to the dermatologist did they prescribe a hydroquinone cream? Hydroquinone is supposed to be more potent than the other skin lightening agents--but I'm afraid of the irritation it might cause as well, and particularly of the worsening of hyperpigmentation that it can cause in some cases. It's good that you're keeping in contact with your physician. Thanks for sharing your experience and if it isn't too much trouble please keep us updated.

Thanks again.

Quote:

Originally Posted by OffTheDeepEnd

Thanks for the info.

You've been using it for 6 months--have you noticed significant lightening?

When you went to the dermatologist did they prescribe a hydroquinone cream? Hydroquinone is supposed to be more potent than the other skin lightening agents--but I'm afraid of the irritation it might cause as well, and particularly of the worsening of hyperpigmentation that it can cause in some cases. It's good that you're keeping in contact with your physician. Thanks for sharing your experience and if it isn't too much trouble please keep us updated.

Thanks again.

Hi... nope... no prescription... I can't say very much lightening from arbutin... as arbutin is not as strong as hydroquinone... but brightening... yes definitely which by what many others have said and noticed I look about 2 shades lighter all around... the melasma... on my face has almost completely faded... it looks like small freckles now... and that's with me using the kojic acid soaps and lotion on my face... as for my hyperpigmentation... nothing too miraculous per say... because neither of these substances shrinks or reduces regular melanin pigments in the skin... but it does remove excess I guess... meaning I guess it will lighten darker areas to regular skin tones... both kojic acid and arbutin block melanin synthesis so it seems that with use of sunscreen reoccurance of the hyperpigmentation should not occur as quickly or as easily... or so I hope... I avoid excessive sun anyway... but even a little sun usually makes my melasma especially really darken... but recently with my regular daily activity I've had no darkening... when before... the summer mean't big dark marks on my face and other parts of my body no matter what I did... I have seen a good evening out the arbutin and kojic acid products seems to fade the marks and match my skin much more... but it seems to be happening very slowly... and like I said before... "Brightening"... which I guess you have to be using the products to really understand... it just seems that I have a better glow... I guess the exfoliating benefits of the kojic... I also did a bit more research on the possibility of arbutin turning into hydroquinone in the liver... and this is when ingested... and it can be injested and is sometimes used to treat urinary infestions... but I would not suggest it because of course hydroquinone can cause cancer... applied externally there is no suffiecient evidence of cancer risk... however if it's abused... who can say... I haven't had any irritation... in fact my skin has cleared up a lot too... I hope these products will completely clear my melasma and hyperpigmentation... my doctor says that patience is virtue but I seem to be doing well and he is surprised that I am managing to have success without a perscription treatment... (I buy my soaps on-line and I make my creams from powder actives I purchased on line too... ready made creams with arbutin esp higher concentrations are a bit pricey so it's easier I find to make my own... )if I'm feeling the progress is slow-going it's probably also because I'm too close to the project... as some may say... I see myself and my progress everyday as it's happening... I should have taken a before picture so I could then see my progress. I can only imagine that without the melasma I look completely different... and with far less hyperpigmentation on my arms... it's got to be better that I thought... at one point could clearly see the dark outlines of my hyperpigmtntation on my arms and hands as if I had on a dark elbow length glove... now I can tell my arm is darker than the rest of me but it's not that apparent... it's more of a gradual natural looking trasition... so I hope it means that it's fading and will completely fade... I'll keep you updated... I'm going to stop rambling now... LOL

By the way... alpha arbutin... the most common... and the one found in most creams... like the one I'm using... and used in popular creams like shiseido whitess... is also the weakest of the arbutins... just as arbtuin is a natural weaker form of hydroquinone... at least chemically structured... there is benzyl arbutin... chemically similar to monobenzene... and there's another one... that start's with a D... deox... or dexyl... it slips my mind right now... arbutin... whichis similar in form to mequinol... I'll stick with alpha arbutin since I 've had no adverse reactions and it's easily obtainable... I'll just be patient... I've heard that the stronger arbutins although more effective can be irritating as well... If I get to a point that I see no more progress in fading out my hyperpigmentation or my melasma quickly returns I will speak to my doctor about the other arbutins... which might be happening as 6 almost seven months has not completelly healed my problems... I may just have resistant skin... but my doc and I will give it 2-3 more months before seeking annother option...

Here's more info on Arbutin:

While some promoters hail arbutin as a completely novel skin-lightening agent, it is actually hydroquinone in disguise. Arbutin is glycosylated hydroquinone (b-D-glucopyranoside derivative of hydroquinone to be exact), i.e. its molecule consists of hydroquinone connected to glucose. It is believed to work by slowly releasing hydroquinone through hydrolysis, which, in turn, suppresses melanin synthesis by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase. Arbutin appears to have fewer side effects than hydroquinone at similar concentrations - presumably due to the more gradual release. The range of arbutin concentrations reported in the literature is 3-7%.

Arbutin clearly has some pigmentation reducing effect. Yet, it remains unclear how well it stacks up against hydroquinone and what the equivalent concentrations (in terms of effectiveness) of these two agents might be. Arbutin appears to be gentler than hydroquinone as far as typical side effects like skin irritation are concerned. However, it is unclear whether the concerns recently raised regarding hydroquinone (risk of ochronosis and possible cancer risk) may apply to arbutin as well.

Finally, due to patenting issues, many skin care companies use arbutin-containing plant extracts (such as bearberry, blueberry, cranberry and other extract) instead of pure arbutin. Whether such products contain sufficient amount of arbutin is unclear. Even if they do, it is unclear whether arbutin in plant extract is equipotent to standard arbitin. (For example, plant extracts may contain other substances interfering with absorption or activity of arbutin).

All in all, arbutin appears to be a promising hydroquinone alternative, but many uncertainties remain.

Source: Smart Skin Care: Treatment of hyperpigmentation problems / skin lightening