After flush the water goes down to the drain pretty good, then at the end stops and does not suck the air, as it usually works. Any ideas?
I tried to use half-tank - same result.
I tried to pour out the whole bucket of water at a time - goes down good, but doesn't suck.
I would appreciate any input.

Sounds to me like a partial blockage, allowing some flow but not enough to allow the siphon action that causes the "suck" to occur. This blockage could be in the toilet itself, at the wax ring or joint with the drainpipe, or somewhere in the drainpipe.

A more remote possibility is that the bowl is cracked, allowing air into the siphon chamber, preventing the siphon... but this is less likely, unless there was some recent trauma.

Anyhow, step one is probably plunging it really well, followed by using a closet auger (toilet snake) if plunging doesn't work. Rental for a closet auger is around $18/day in my neighborhood, and you can buy one for around $45.

After that, if it's not cracked you're probably into pull-the-toilet territory, to check the outlet and snake the drainage line.

Good luck!
~aaron


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Thank you Aaron, this sounds believable for me. It looks like the previous tenants were pretty much careless since I found in the pipe under the sink… a toothbrush! I am scared to take out of drain a broom:) /'''
By the way, should toilet be sealed where it’s sitting on the floor, or perhaps the wax seal is enough?

First off, I'm NOT a plumber (tho I've set a few toilets) and codes can be different in your locale.

Here, there is no requirement to caulk around the base of the toilet, though some folks will do it hoping for a more "professional" look. Personally, I don't do it and think that more often than not the caulk looks a lot worse than nothing.

A good, solid and clean installation needs no caulk. There should never be any wet or moisture under the toilet anyhow, and caulk can just mask a problem if there is one.

Standard installation calls for a wax-ring, and you have to be sure that the wax ring smushes appropriately, i.e. it's tall enough (but not too tall) This is a function of the distance between the horn on the toilet (opening) and the flange on the floor, obviously.

Now, I won't use anything other than a Fernco Wax-Free Seal:
Fernco, Inc.

These things are the nicest, cleanest and fastest seals ever. They are much better than the Fluidmastr wax-free seals you see at Lowe's etc sometimes (my local Lowe's also has these Ferncos, but they're harder to find). I had a problem with a toilet (leaky wax seal, water under toilet, rotted hardwood floor grrr.. previous homeowner!) at my house and used one of these, and then had to take the toilet up again a year later to snake the drain, and it was as clean and pristine under there as the day I laid it down. Even the replacement subfloor plywood looked brand new. If it were me, I'd get one of these seals even if I had to order both sizes just in case.


A large part of a nice toilet installation is making sure it's adequately bolted down. Make sure your flange is in good shape, and get new bolts unless yours are perfect... they are very cheap, and much easier to work with. Be aware that you can strip them as they're (usually) soft brass, but this is a good thing as you don't want to crack your toilet. Anyhow, a toilet that rocks or is wobbly is no good, and will leak underneath.


Good luck!
~aaron


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I have one that most repair plumbers miss.. Look down at the bottom of the bowl. If there is a small hole, then that is a jet that starts the syphon action. If it's clogged the water will just swirl around and slowly go down leaving solids behind. Take your finger,(UGH! ) and run it around the inside of the opening. Over the years minerals build up and cut down on the syphon (flush) action. If it is rough or you feel build up, take a table knife and put a bend in it to get around the curve in the bowl and chip and scrap it clear. Next take a coathanger and clear out the holes around the rim. They start the swirling action. And last, check the water level in the tank. It should be 1/2" below the top of the over flow tube. And speaking of the overflow tube, Make sure the small 1/8" tube from the ballcock to the white overflow tube is connected so it discharges in it and that it's flowing when the ballcock fills. This is what raises the water level in the bowl. For a good solid flush they all have to work together. We always grout our toilets in new construction, it gives the installation a professional look. Hope this helps . Tom