OK you can't leave an extension cord in place over 90 days. So as long as the wire size is OK for the load at that length, can I buy a 20' one, cut the end off and hardwire it in as a 20' power cord? I am talking a motorized screen for in a church. The directions say 14-18 wire. I should be able to pick up a 16-3 cord for less than the wire and a plug.

Sorry labman, but I cannot find anything to justify your plan.

First is the church is a Place of Assembly, I assume the room can handle 100 people or more, or if not, the room is adjacent to an area that can handle 100 people.

The unit is designed to be permanently attached, so it should have a cable or some permanent raceway connected to it that is allowed in a POA.

Cords are allowed for units, in general, that need flexibility or frequent removal for servicing. Specific appliances call for no more than 4 feet of cord. A 20 foot cord in a church for a stationary unit is pushing it.

I see your point and understand what your trying to do. I just can't see my way to advise otherwise. Perhaps someone else can offer some insight, opinions, comments,etc.

If the 20 foot cord does get installed, I can speculate that soon the cord would be concealed by building structure, or hidden behind something, that may cause damage to the cord, and turn into a hidden hazard.

I really tried, but no go, and you know me, straight and no BS, by the book.

A couple more thoughts. It there a limit on the size of equipment needing a service disconnect? I didn't check the amps, but the directions allowed #18 wire. I am sure #18 can deliver a fatal shock. Aren't cords and plugs acceptable for them? Does lighting need a service disconnect?

In anticipation of your answer, I had already asked a home builder that is a member of the church who he would suggest to do the job. The clowns that tied the neutral and ground together in a number of light fixtures, didn't label the circuit breakers they installed, and left some exterior light fixtures with bent, broken, or missing screws are not on the list.

I mentioned limiting what I do because for lack of a license. He said nobody but plumbers need to be licensed. I do know from being in charge of some Habitat for Humanity houses, that volunteers could do about everything else. A local contractor donated his time to instal the furnaces.

Aruuuuuugh! I don't like any of these possibilities:

1 He lied to me.

2 We have a home builder that doesn't know he needs to be using licensed sub contractors.

3 Electricians don't need to be licensed. I am still not sure we have building inspection outside the city. Could this be why insurance rates are so high?

Labman, here are several Commonwealth of Virginia webpages, sites, etc, that mention and explain about electrical contractors needing a license:

LIS > Administrative Code > 18VAC50-22-20

http://www.vbcoa.org/Board%20for%20C...20Policies.pdf

http://www.vbcoa.org/CONSUMER%20PROT...0STATEMENT.pdf

Virginia

Contractor Regulations

http://www.dpor.virginia.gov/dporweb...0Contactor.pdf


As far as a service disconnect, every electrical device needs some sort of disconnecting means. A cord and plug will suffice for several items. If the unit instructions state that #18 is fine, then your good.

Lighting will usually have a local switch that acts as the disconnect. Up to now a circuit breaker also was allowed. The new 2008 code however is now mandating that fixture manufacturers include some sort of disconnecting means in the fixture. So far I have seen a switch, a fuse, and a Molex plug in fixtures, all acting as the individual disconnect for that fixture. This is because large stores,offices, etc, that use only circuit breakers, offer a hazard to electrical workers that repair lighting. Nobody takes the time to shut the breaker off, or it cannot be shutoff since repairs are usually being done during occupied times.

I hope this helps guide you.

Thanks. Maybe I will put a short pig tail on it and have the guy run BX and set a box with an outlet.

I may also poke about the state web site.

I checked the instructions. Often other things specify having an electrician instal it. I laugh at the instructions for the ballasts I instal. They specify to be installed by an electrician or qualified people. Shouldn't that be or other qualified people?